Friday, June 24, 2016

My Visual Travel Experience: Macau

Having visited Las Vegas many years ago and having enjoyed my visit for all the glitz and glamour the city had to offer, I was keen on visiting Macau, the Asian version of Vegas. So when I was in Hong Kong a few years later, I went to Macau for a day - it's only an hour's ferry ride away. It sure did remind me of Vegas, with near identical hotels including The Venetian, The Wynn and The MGM, but I was also impressed with the absolutely charming Portugese old town. Macau was a Portugese colony till 1999 and it subsequently became an autonomous region within China. My sister in law and her family subsequently moved to Macau. We went to visit them in 2015, and that's when I really got to explore the town thoroughly because I had the luxury of time (I was there for over 10 days) and I had useful insights and tips from a local resident! Subsequently, I've spent close to 10 days there in 2016, then again in 2017, and then in 2018/2019, so I feel like I know the place rather well.

There is this impression people carry that Macau is just about casinos and gambling at its many fancy hotels. I was pleasantly surprised to find that it offers so much more, and has become a family holiday destination. There are of course the casinos and the huge business they churn out (Macau has one of the world's highest per capita incomes, standing at about USD 65,000). Over and above the hotels, there are churches, town squares, a fortress, and many family entertainment options. Having a population of around 600,000, it is a small enough town to explore easily enough, and the good public transport by way of an extensive bus network made things a breeze for me as a visitor.

Like most tourists, one of my first stops was at Senado Square, at the heart of the old Portugese town. It is a paved, pedestrian square, full of shops, restaurants and cafes. During festivals like Christmas and the Chinese New Year, the square is decorated beautifully. Main landmarks in Macau like the Ruins of St Paul’s, St Dominic's Church and the Cathedral lie within walking distance of Senado Square. The buzz around the square made this my favourite part of Macau, great for sight seeing, people watching, eating out or just hanging around with friends.

Senado Square
St Dominic's Church
High Altar, St Dominic's Church
Statue of the Virgin Mary, St Dominic's Church
Post Office, Senado Square
St Paul’s was a 16th century Portugese church. It was built by Jesuit priests. At one time, it was one of the largest churches in Asia. In 1835, there was a typhoon that led to a fire which engulfed the church and destroyed most of it. Today, the Ruins of St Paul’s are among the best known landmarks of Macau, and little else stands other than the church’s front façade. For me, it was an eerie reminder of what happened all those years ago!
Ruins of St Paul's
The Fortaleza de Macau is a fortress up on a hill rising above the Ruins of St Paul’s. The fortress was completed in the 17th century to protect the properties of the Jesuits, but it was later taken over and used for the defence of Macau. The Museum of Macau is part of the fortress and was built in the 1990s. The nicely landscaped top of the fortress offers splendid views of Macau.
Fortaleza de Macau
Guia Fortress is a 17th century fortress that also has a lighthouse and a chapel. The fortress was built by the Portugese after an unsuccessful attempt by the Netherlands to take over Macau. Guia Hill is the highest point in Macau, and on clear days, the lighthouse (completed in 1865) is visible from miles away. After my visit, I realized I had to work on my fitness levels - there is a fair bit of climbing to do in order to get to the top of the hill! I also had a bit of a fall during my descent, as it was a rainy, slippery day!
Guia Hill
A-Ma Temple was built in the 15th century AD and is dedicated to the Chinese sea goddess Mazu.

A-Ma Temple
The Theatre Dom Pedro V dates back to 1858 and was the first western style theatre in the east. Situated on a hill close to Senado Square, the theatre still hosts plays and performances.
Theatre Dom Pedro V
Interior, Theatre Dom Pedro V
St Augustine's Church lies opposite Theatre Dom Pedro V. It dates back to the 16th century AD and was built by the Spanish.
St Augustine's Church
Crucifixion, St Augustine's Church
My sister in law's husband is in the hotel line in Macau, and his advice was that I should explore the hotels, which competed with one another in terms of sheer opulence. I managed to cover most of them.

The Venetian Macau is modelled along the lines of The Venetian Las Vegas. The hotel was opened in 2007 and lies along Cotai Strip in Taipa. It is huge, and has close to 3,000 suites spread over 39 stories, a large casino, a huge shopping area with stores built around canals with typical Venetian gondolas, and a large arena for sports and entertainment. The hotel has several well known restaurants, including Golden Peacock, one of the few Indian Michelin Star restaurants. The hotel features replicas of some of Venice's best known places, including St Mark's, the Dogge's Palace and the Rialto Bridge. Having been to Venice, I can say from personal experience that they've done a great job of recreating the Venetian experience!
St Mark's Campanile, The Venetian Macau
Dome Interior, The Venetian Macau
Rialto Bridge, The Venetian Macau
Gondola inside The Venetian Macau
The Lisboa Hotel was built in 1970 by Stanley Ho, and it was one of the first luxury casino hotels in Macau. The more recent Grand Lisboa stands right next to the original hotel - it is 261 meters tall and towers above most things in Macau. The hotel's lobby is full of works of art and other interesting objects including the Star of Stanley Ho, one of the world’s largest diamonds.

Lisboa Hotel
Grand Lisboa
The Wynn Macau opened in 2006. I found this to be the most opulent of Macau's hotels. The huge hotel has a large casino, several fine dining restaurants, a dancing fountain and a shopping arcade with high end luxury stores like Chanel, Dior and Louis Vuitton, to mention a few. The hotel is built along the lines of the original Wynn in Las Vegas. There is an impressive fountain outside the hotel, and at regular intervals, one can enjoy the dancing fountain, moving beautifully to choreographed music. I found myself going more than once for this splendid outdoor show. Reminded me of the Bellagio fountain at Las Vegas.
The Wynn Macau


The MGM Macau opened in 2007. The hotel has a large casino, a big bronze lion outside, imitations of  sculptures by Salvador Dali, and a large central hall with a big aquarium. The original MGM Hotel is in Las Vegas. The lion theme crops up repeatedly inside the hotel, as there are many lion motifs and sculptures. The original in Vegas goes one step above - I was amazed to see live lions (that one can get photographed with) inside the hotel.
The MGM Macau
There's The Galaxy Macau, with its impressive fountain in the Diamond Lobby, and long line of shops and restaurants.
The Galaxy Macau
Diamond Lobby at The Galaxy Macau
City Of Dreams boasts of the stupendous Dancing Waters show, Soho (a restaurant and entertainment complex), and Michelin Star restaurants like The Tasting Room and The Jade Dragon. The Dancing Waters show has been running continuously for years, and it features some amazing acrobatics in water. If you're in the front few rows (luckily, I wasn't), be prepared to get wet! The show's a bit expensive, but it's worth it - kids will love it too.
Jade Dragon restaurant at City of Dreams
House of Dancing Water, City of Dreams
Morpheus opened in 2018 and is part of City of Dreams. The hotel is very new age in its appearance. It boasts of the Michelin Star restaurant Alain Ducasse, and the Michelin recommended Voyages.
Lobby, Morpheus
Studio City opened lies along Cotai Strip and opened in 2015. It features an art deco design. The hotel has the Golden Reel, which is a ferris wheel shaped like a figure of eight. Besides its numerous fine dining restaurants and high end shops, the hotel has numerous attractions for children.
Studio City
Wynn Palace opened in 2016. The hotel has a large lake in front of it. Visitors can enter the hotel by cable car, which goes around the lake. The North Lobby has a constantly changing floral display, that is really quite a treat to the senses. When I visited, there was a rotating windmill display.
Wynn Palace
North Lobby of Wynn Palace
The Parisian Macau opened in 2016. The hotel lies close to The Venetian along the Cotai Strip. Besides the casino, the shops and the restaurants, the hotel has recreations of several of Paris' best known landmarks, like the Eiffel Tower (the replica is over 500 feet tall and a lift takes visitors to the top), the Opera Garnier, the fountains of Place de la Concorde (in the hotel's lobby), Place Vendome and Moulin Rouge.
Eiffel Tower at The Parisian Macau
The lobby of The Parisian Macau
Print of David's The Crowning of Napoleon, The Parisian Macau
Place Vendome, The Parisian Macau
Macau Tower stands at a height of 338 meters. It has an observation deck, restaurants, shops and an entertainment centre. It is also famous for it adventurous activities like bungee jumping. Macau Tower was completed in 2001 by the casino billionaire Stanley Ho and was inspired by Auckland’s Sky Tower. My visit to the tower wasn't a very satisfactory one because it was rainy and cloudy day, but on clear days, I believe the view is fabulous.
Macau Tower
The Grand Prix Museum features several actual cars and motorcycles that were victorious in the Macau Grand Prix across many years. Some of these vehicles were driven by legends of the sport like Ayrton Senna and Michael Schuhmacher. The Macau Grand Prix was first held in 1954 and is an annual event held every November. It unique in the sense that both car and motorcycle races are a part of it. Right beside this museum is the Wine Museum, where I learned a fair bit about wine making. I also got to taste several different types of wines, from different regions of Portugal. Exotic wines are also on sale there.

Michel Schuhmacher's car at the Grand Prix Museum
Another worthwhile visit in Macau is the Taipa Houses Museum, which lies in the quaint Taipa Village. At this museum, one can see a series of old Macanese houses, displaying artefacts, Portugese costumes and interiors of typical homes. This gave me a proper peep into Macanese culture. Taipa Village is a great place for souvenir shopping and eating.
Costumes on display at Taipa Houses Museum
Macanese House, Taipa Houses Museum
Fernando's is a very popular Portugese restaurant, close to the beach in Coloane, in the southernmost part of Macau. The restaurant serves ethnic Portugese food. Along the restaurant's walls, there are currency notes from all over the world, showing the nationalities of the customers who have visited.
Charcoal Grilled Chicken at Fenando's
Fisherman's Wharf is a waterfront area near the Macau Ferry Terminal, which has restaurants, retail outlets and a convention centre. It also has a Roman Amphitheatre that can accommodate 2,000 people for concerts and other performances.

Roman Amphitheatre at Fisherman's Wharf
So all in all, I had a great time exploring this interesting town, which is a beautiful blend of Portugese and Chinese culture, with a strong flavor of Las Vegas thrown in. I recommend it for gamblers, history buffs, shoppers, foodies and even families with kids!
Me with my wife and baby at the Ruins of St Paul's in 2015

Friday, June 17, 2016

The Corporate Sector vs Running My Own Business

Having done my MBA from XLRI Jamshedpur, I spent 15 years in the corporate sector. My first 10 years were in Britannia, from 1996 to 2006. I spent a year in Delhi as a Sales Management Trainee, then I was in Chennai for 2 years as an Area Sales Manager (first handling Chennai, then handling Karnataka). Next up was a 3 year Marketing stint in Bangalore as a Product Manager. My last 4 years in Britannia were spent back in Delhi, as a Regional Sales Manager. I quite enjoyed my Britannia stint (of course, there were ups and downs) and the reason I left was that I was moving back to Bangalore as a Marketing Manager, and I saw no chance of returning to Delhi as long as I was in Britannia, and my parents and extended family were in Delhi. I wanted to be in the same city as my family and this triggered off my move to Nokia. I spent 5 years in the corporate office in Gurgaon, handing various roles in Marketing, as a Product Marketing Manager, as the Head of Marketing Planning, as a Program Manager and as a Category Manager.

Years before I took the plunge and decided to set up my own venture, I had an idea for a venture, which married my greatest passion with my career. For years, I had been an avid traveler, and every year, I would take 2 or 3 weeks off and travel around the world, often to the great consternation of my bosses! One of the things I enjoyed doing, in addition to exploring places in detail and taking photographs, was collecting souvenirs from different places. I often wondered why good quality souvenirs weren't available in India, and that was the idea for my venture. So there was this idea that was pulling me, but it wasn't easy to chuck up a corporate salary and take the plunge. Then there was a push factor following some differences at work, and between the pull and push forces, I decided it was time to take the big step.

Now it is close to 5 years since I said goodbye to the corporate sector. I sometimes do think about returning to the corporate sector, but I haven't done anything about going back to it. Let's look at my thoughts about the corporate sector versus running my venture.

The Corporate Sector - the good things that I miss
- The salary. It's not easy earning like one did in the corporate sector.
- A feeling of belonging to a larger family. At both organizations where I worked, there was this feeling of belonging to a larger family. I made good friendships among my colleagues. There was this sense of pride being attached to a big established brand, and there was that respect that one drew from that.
- The friendships I developed. Though I certainly have more time on my hands now, I end up spending less time with friends. I guess it's largely due to close friendships I had developed in the workplace, and the ease with which one could take "coffee breaks" at work and catch up with friends.
- The learnings. Working in large organizations came with a lot of learnings, whether it was from structures training programs, or from very able seniors and peers. That's something one doesn't get on one's own.
- The lifestyle. Yes, I do miss the jet setting lifestyle, the perks, the complimentary invitations to big events, the regular stay at five star hotels.

The Corporate Sector - the not so good things that I don't miss
- Difficult bosses. I have had my share of those. Some ill tempered, some workaholics, some unreasonable. Some very competent, but just not at the same wavelength as me.
- The lack of work-life balance. I've had extended periods of working late nights, and weekends, and barely getting time to myself, or with my family or friends or interests.
- The feeling of not being adequately empowered. I found myself being inadequately empowered to take decisions and implement them. There were always approvals to be sought, buy-ins to be obtained.

My Own Business - the good things
- Good work-life balance. How much time I devote to work and to my personal life are largely up to me. My interests, which had taken a bit of  back-seat, are integral to my life again now (my travels, my photography, watching movies, eating out, my interests in following tennis / chess / other sports / the music charts). I have also managed to spend more time with family than I was able to earlier. That's important specially now because I have a young son and I can get to be an integral part of his growing up years. I have also been able to spend more time with my parents and sisters now, even though I was living with them when I was in the corporate sector, and now I have been living separately ever since I got married (my marriage roughly coincided with my leaving the corporate sector).
- Freedom to take decisions that impact business. There is a sense of empowerment that wasn't there earlier. Decisions may be guided by financial constraints, but not by a series of approvals to be obtained.
- Not being answerable to anyone else but myself. Sometimes it is good to be answerable to a boss, but I am the kind of person who likes to be answerable to myself. I don't like every move of mine to be observed and analysed to see how improvements can be brought about. I like to do things my way, at my pace, even if it's not the most effective way!
- The sky is the limit, at least in theory. I am very far from being anywhere near that stage. However, at least in theory, the sky is the limit in terms of rewards one can generate by striking big deals, exploring unchartered avenues. Rewards aren't limited to salaries and possible bonuses.
- Working in a space that is an area of interest. My work is in a space that is linked to my biggest passion - travel. Work involves a bit of travel, plus a lot of photography and catering to international travelers. When work is in one's area of interest, it really doesn't feel like work!

My Own Business - the not so good things
- Financial struggles. There are good months and then there are the not so good months. The nature of my work is very seasonal, as it is linked to the inflow of foreign tourists into India. In lean summer months, business struggles and then one really misses the fixed monthly corporate salary!
- No large brand as a "big brother". When I go for a meeting, I am not going as a representative of a large brand, so doors don't open so easily, whether it is clients or vendors or other business partners.
- Being everything from the CEO to the delivery boy. While this is a plus in many ways, as it gives one a lot of cross functional work exposure, it also means one has to do things that one doesn't necessarily enjoy doing or things at which one isn't very adept. Luckily, my wife is involved in the business with me, and though we have our share of work squabbles because of very different approaches, we also have complimentary skill sets.

So there is no black and white answer, as each of the two phases in my life has had its share of rewards and challenges. But in all likelihood, I see myself continuing with my venture. It's hard to get back to a corporate life after several years on one's own. Yes, I really miss the steady source of income and I now have a family to support (which wasn't the case when I was in the corporate sector), but the sense of freedom, the feeling of empowerment, the work-life balance, the time spent with family, and the joy of not being answerable to a boss (unreasonable or otherwise) are big pluses for me.