My Visual Travel Experience: Budapest

Having stayed in Belgrade from 1983 to 1985, and then in Vienna from 1985 to 1989, Budapest was not far off from where I lived, and I visited the city several times during those 6 years. More recently, I again visited Budapest in 2009 and spent a few days there. I was delighted by this beautiful city, divided in two by the Danube River (Buda is the castle district up on a hill to the western side of the river; the lower town lies in Pest, to the east of the river). I found it to be one of the grandest and most delightful cities in Eastern Europe, matched perhaps only by Prague.

View of Budapest with the Parliament and the Danube River

The Hungarian capital has a population of over 1.7 million. It has had an eventful history. The Magyars migrated to the region that is now Budapest in the 9th century from the Urals. In the 11th century, St Stephen (local name – St Istvan) accepted Christianity as the religion and was the first Hungarian Christian king. In 1247, Bela IV moved the capital to Buda. Matyas Cornivus was the dynasty’s best known ruler & he reigned in the 15th century. The Turks then took over the city and were overthrown 150 years later by the Habsburgs from Austria. There was an uprising in 1848, but that was crushed by Emperor Franz Josef I. The city became an important centre of the Austro-Hungarian empire. In 1873, the two parts of the city – Buda and Pest – were united to form Budapest. After World War I, the Habsburg rule came to an end and Hungary lost a lot of its territory. It sided with Germany in World War II but was occupied by the Soviet Union in 1945. In 1956, the Soviets crushed an uprising against communism. The communists continued to be in power until 1990, when free elections were held for the first time. In 2004, Hungary joined the European Union.

The Parliament is a grand building which is Budapest’s main landmark. It was completed in 1896. There was a competition to choose the designer, and the winner was the Hungarian architect Imre Steindl. The building was inspired by London’s Houses of Parliament. Every corner of the building has gables with pinnacles, and the centre piece is the grand dome. The complex has the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, St Stephen's Crown, and figures symbolizing different occupations of the Hungarian population.

Parliament

Parliament - Interior of dome

Parliament - Old Upper House Hall

The Royal Palace dates back to the 13th century. King Matyas rebuilt it in the 15th century. The Habsburgs  under Queen Maria Theresa expanded it in the 18th century. The present structure dates back to post World War II, when the palace had to be rebuilt due to extensive damage. The palace has an impressive neo classical dome.

Royal Palace

Royal Palace - Matyas Fountain

Royal Palace - Sculpture of Prince Eugene of Savoy

Royal Palace, with the Chain Bridge in the Foreground

The Hungarian National Gallery was established in 1957 and lies in the Royal Palace complex and has a fine collection of art from Hungarian artists from the medieval period to the 20th century. The museum has fine altarpieces and beautiful Hungarian impressionist art.

Paal's Depth of the Forest,
Hungarian National Gallery

Paal's Haystacks, Hungarian National Gallery

Merse's The Skylark,
Hungarian National Gallery

Merse's Picnic in May, Hungarian National Gallery

Munkacsy's In the Park,
Hungarian National Gallery

Holy Trinity Square lies close to the Royal Palace. The Holy Trinity Column was erected in 1713 and commemorates the dead from two plague epidemics in 1691 and 1709. The base shows the suffering of the town’s citizen, and the summit shows the Holy Trinity. Nearby is the Old Town Hall, dating back to the early 18th century.

Holy Trinity Square

Heroes Square is a major city landmark that commemorates heroes from Hungary’s rich history. Hungary’s millennium celebrations opened here in 1896. The Millennium Monument dominates the square. Fine buildings like the Museum of Fine Arts, the Szechenyi Baths and the Vajdahunyad Castle surround it.

Heroes' Square

Heroes' Square - Statues at the base of the column

Millennium Monument with the Sculptures
of Peace and Hope, Heroes Square 

Millennium Monument with the Sculptures
of War and Labour, Heroes Square 

The Hungarian National Museum dates back to 1802. Count Ferenc Szechenyi gave his collection of works of art to the nation, and that’s what started off the museum. The museum’s highlights include sections on archaeology, funeral decorations, crowns, and exhibits depicting Hungary’s modern history.

Hungarian National Museum

Crown of Monomachus,
Hungarian National Museum

Golden Stag,
Hungarian National Museum

The Matyas Church had its origins in the 13th century. It was converted into the Great Mosque by the Turks in the 16th century. The present structure dates back to 1896. The impressive main portal has a relief of the Madonna and Child. 

Matyas Church - Mary Portal

Fisherman’s Bastion lies just behind the Matyas Church. It was completed in 1895. The bastion is a viewing platform that has beautiful views of the town below. St Stephen’s equestrian statue lies in front of the structure.

Fisherman's Bastion with St Stephen's Statue

Fisherman's Bastion

The Statue of St Gellert stands on Gellert Hill, overlooking Elizabeth Bridge, and has Bishop Gellert holding a cross and blessing the city. The statue was erected in 1904. St Gellert was a bishop who was murdered in the 11th century by those opposed to the adoption of Christianity.

Statue of St Gellert

The Liberation Monument on Gellert Hill is dedicated to the liberation of Budapest by the Soviet army in 1945. The central figure is that of a woman holding a palm leaf. This sculpture is 14 meters high. At the base, there are allegorical sculptures.

Liberation Monument

The State Opera House was completed in 1884. Highlights include the grand foyer, the chandeliers, the main staircase and the three storied auditorium. 

State Opera House

The Chain Bridge was completed in 1849 and is 380 meters long. It is supported by two towers. The bridge is guarded by two large lion statues. 

Chain Bridge - Seen from Royal Palace

Completed in 1935, St Stephen’s Basilica is dedicated to St Stephen, the first Hungarian Christian king, who died in 1038. The king’s mummified forearm is kept in the church, in the Chapel of the Holy Right Hand. The dome is 96 meters high, and has two bell towers, one on either side.

St Stephen's Basilica

The Calvinist Church is renowned for its tiled roof, and dates back to 1896.

Calvinist Church

Empress Elisabeth, the wife of the Habsburg Emperor, Fran Josef I, was liked by the local population in Budapest, and there is a Statue of Elisabeth that is popular with visitors.

Statue of Elisabeth (Sissy)

The Szechenyi Baths are the largest baths in Europe and the water here reaches the surface at a temperature of 75 degrees Celsius. The building was completed in 1913. The springs are said to have healing properties that can cure rheumatism and other ailments.

Szechenyi Baths

The Vajdahunyad Castle has various buildings with different architectural styles. The complex was originally designed for the 1896 Millennium Celebrations, but given its immense popularity, a decision was taken in 1906 to make it permanent.

Vajdahunyad Castle

Museum, Vajdahunyad Castle

Statue of Anonymous, Vajdahunyad Castle

I found Budapest nothing short of spectacular. The Parliament was simply awe inspiring, and the various churches, the museums and the charming Danube River running through the heart of the city all made it a truly memorable visit.

My Visual Travel Experience: Hawaii

My wife Kamalini and I went to Hawaii for just over a week soon after our marriage in 2011. We managed to cover the islands of O'ahu, Kaua'i and Maui, but we missed Big Island with its famous volcanoes. Hawaii was beautiful, laid back, and yet had this certain buzz about it. Even now my wife says "That was a trip - it wasn't a honeymoon", because there was just so much to see and do there that I didn't really have too much time for my newly wed wife!!

The state of Hawaii is the 50th state in the United States of America. It became a state in 1959, having become a part of the USA in 1898. Hawaii consists of 8 large islands and numerous small ones. There are 4 principle islands where tourism flourishes – O'ahu (which has the state capital Honolulu), Kaua'i, Maui and Big Island. The islands together have a population of over 1,400,000, and support over 6,000,000 tourist visits a year.

King Kamehameha is credited with having united the Hawaiian islands, systematically conquering all the islands in the 1790s. Hawaii became a unified kingdom in 1809, with Kaua'i being the last island to come into the union. Kamehemeha was a powerful leader, and after his death in 1819, the kingdom was never quite as strong again. The monarchy was overthrown in 1893 and Hawaii became a republic in 1893.

Honolulu is a bustling town with a population of around 350,000. It is famous for its ever popular Waikiki Beach. Pearl Harbor also lies within the outer limits of the town, and it is famous for being the spot where Japan attacked on December 7th, 1941, and got the USA involved in World War II. Over 2,500 people were killed by the Japanese attack, and America retaliated by bombing Hiroshima and Nagasaki, killing close to 200,000 people in the process and leading to Japan’s surrender. 

Waikiki Beach is one of the most popular beaches in the world. The entire stretch is lined with fancy hotels, restaurants and shops. A favourite with surfers! The beach was developed in the early 1900s. Before that, it was a marshy land. Lying along the beach, the Royal Hawaiian Hotel is spread over 10 acres of land, and is at the site where Kamehameha V built a summer cottage in the 1870s.  The hotel is also called the Pink Palace.  The hotel opened in 1927.  Post the Depression in the 1930s, the hotel was temporarily closed, but it reopened in 1947. The Duke Poao Kahanamoku Statue on Waikiki Beach is dedicated to the father of surfing, who popularized the sport. He first became famous as a swimmer in the 1912 Olympics. 

Waikiki Beach

Royal Hawaiian Hotel,
Waikiki Beach

Duke Poao Kahanamoku Statue,
Waikiki Beach

Swimming Pool, Royal Hawaiian Hotel,
Waikiki Beach

Sheraton Waikiki, Waikiki Beach

St Andrew’s Cathedral was built as an Anglican church in 1867. Kamehameha IV brought the Anglican religion to Hawaii following a trip to England. After the king’s death in 1863, his wife, Queen Emma, traveled to England to raise funds for the church. Kamehameha V inaugurated the church. 

St Andrew's Cathedral

Nave, St Andrew's Cathedral

The King Kamehameha Statue lies in front of Ali’iolani Hale. He was the first king of Hawaii and is credited with having unified the islands. He ruled from 1795 to 1819. The famous bronze statue has a golf leaf feathered helmet and cloak. The original statue was lost in a storm and this replica was erected in 1883. The original  was later found and put up in Kapa’au.

King Kamehameha Statue

Iolani Palace was built by King David Kalakaua in 1882 and served as a royal palace for 11 years, till the monarchy fell. The palace became a seat of government. The first governor used the palace as his office, but the government later moved to the Capitol Building.

Iolani Palace

Bandstand, Iolani Palace

Kawaiahao Church was built in 1842.The church has portraits of many monarchs and their families. Many of the kings were baptized, married and crowned at this church. The old Hawaiian religion collapsed in the 1820s and the Christian missionaries became influential. The early missionaries preached at this very site in a thatched church.

Kawaiahao Church

Aloha Tower was built in 1926. It is 54 meters in height. A market-place below has shops and restaurants. The tower has four large clocks, one facing each direction.

Aloha Tower

The Elvis Presley Statue commemorates the famous rock n roll star who died in 1977 at the age of 42. Honolulu was one of Elvis’ favourite towns, and he performed here on many occasions.

Elvis Presley Statue

Hilo Hatties is the ultimate shop for buying Hawaiian souvenirs, in particular, the famous Hawaiian shirts. The shop runs its own coaches to pick up and drop tourists from various hotels.

Hilo Hatties

Honolulu Zoo is situated just next to Waikiki Beach. It has a fine collection of animals from Africa, Asia and the Americas. The African section is particularly rich. 

Cape Hunting Dog, Honolulu Zoo

Giraffe, Honolulu Zoo

Bishop Museum is a museum dedicated to Polynesian culture. The museum opened in 1902. Princess Bernice Pauahi was the last descendant of Kamehameha, and she left her entire family heirlooms to her husband, Charles Bishop. Her cousin, Queen Emma, also died a bit later and she too left her belongings to Bishop. He built this museum to house this collection.  

Bishop Museum

Bust of Charles Read Bishop, Bishop Museum

Polynesian Hut, Bishop Museum

The Honolulu State Capitol lies in an impressive building rising from a reflecting pool. Outside, there are attractions like the Eternal Flame (to commemorate those who died in the World Wars), the statue of Father Damian and a replica of the Liberty Bell.

Eternal Flame,
Honolulu State Capitol

Pearl Harbor got its name because in the days of Kamehameha, the sea around it was farmed for oyster pearls. It was used as a military base in the Spanish – American war in 1898. Pearl Harbour came into worldwide prominence because that’s where the Japanese attacked in 1941, an act of aggression that brought America into WWII. The warship USS Arizona was attacked, and hundreds of its crew were killed.  

USS Okhlahoma, Pearl Harbor

USS Bowfin Submarine, Pearl Harbor

Besides Honolulu, the island of O'ahu has another attraction that is certainly worth a visit. The Polynesian Cultural Center is in the village of La’ie and is spread over 42 acres of land. Students from all over Polynesia, including Hawaii, Tonga, Samoa, Tahiti and Fiji, demonstrate arts and dances. The center has traditional Polynesian feasts, canoes, masks and architecture. There is also a daily evening show. Traditional Hawaiian feasts, consisting of roast pig and other delicacies, are serves at the Luau Hall. The admission price is hefty, but it’s a worthwhile experience.

Chapel, Polynesian Cultural Center

Polynesian Head, Polynesian Cultural Center

Luau Hall, Polynesian Cultural Center

The island of Kaua'i is known for its natural beauty, with its beaches, waterfalls, mountains and canyons.

Waimea Canyon is also called the Grand Canyon of the Pacific. Kauai was almost split into two by earth movements that formed the canyon. The gorge is 915 meters deep.

Waimea Canyon

Wailua Falls have two streams of water that fall on to the pool below. The water falls from a height of 24 meters. Getting to the pool is extremely difficult because the hill side drops down vertically. The area around the waterfalls has sugarcane plantations all around. 

Wailua Falls

Opackao Falls is another one of the island's well known waterfalls. The waterfall can be seen from a distance, as it is up on a mountain.

Opackao Falls

Hanalei Valley Lookout has stupendous views of the pretty taro fields below.  The fields have a criss-cross network of water channels, and they are a favourite with birds like herons. The lookout along Highway 56 offers the best views over the valley below.

Hanalei Valley Lookout

Poipu Beach is one of Kauai’s most popular beaches. It’s a good spot to see giant turtles and sea lions. The strip has hotels and restaurants by the sea side.

Giant Turtle, Poipu Beach

Hanalei Waioli Huiia Church was built in 1841. The church now serves as a social hall and is one of the prettiest buildings on the island.

Hanalei Waioli Huiia Church

Interior, Hanalei Waioli Huiia Church

Kilauea Point lies on a cliff top overlooking the sea. It’s a great spot to see sea-birds. If one is lucky, one can also spot whales in the sea below. There's also the Kilauea Point Lighthouse at the top of the hill.

Kilauea Point

Kilauea Point Lighthouse

One of the island's highlights for us was an ocean cruise along the Blue Dolphin Cruise. This is a half day cruise that gives passengers the chance to see humpbacked whales and dolphins, if they’re lucky. We weren't quite so lucky, but we still enjoyed the beautiful scenery during the cruise.

Blue Dolphin Cruise

Smith’s Tropical Paradise is a recreation of a tropical garden. It also has a pool-side stage that features Polynesian cultural performances.

Smith's Tropical Paradise

Aku Aku Head, Smith's Tropical Paradise

Coconut Marketplace is a marketplace that has eateries and shops, and where one can enjoy regular Hawaiian hula dance performances.

Observation Tower, Coconut Marketplace

Hula Dancer, Coconut Marketplace

Maui is another island known for its natural beauty. Lahaina is the island's main town. 

The Banyan Tree in Lahaina is  amongst the largest in the world, with multiple roots that together take up the larger par of a field. Arts and crafts fairs are held under the tree. The tree’s circumference is over 400 meters, its height is 18 meters, and it covers an area of two thirds of an acre.

Banyan Tree, Lahaina

The Baldwin House in Lahaina dates back to the 1830s. The Reverend Dwight Baldwin lived in this house with his family.

Baldwin House, Lahaina

The Alii Kula Lavender Farm is a beautiful farm up on a hill in Maui. It has an interesting shop that sells soaps, powders and all sorts of other products using lavender. The farm produces 45 types of lavendar.

Alii Kula Lavendar Farm

Fountain, Alii Kula Lavendar Farm

The Ulupalukua Ranch, with its wine tasting and selling room. This is Maui’s only winery. The wine tasting room was made in 1874 for King David Kalakaua, who was a patron.

Wine tasting room, Ulupalakua Ranch

The Surfing Goat Dairy, which breeds goats, and markets dairy products  made from goat milk. More than 20 types of goat cheese are made here. Tours are held to take visitors through the dairy.

Surfing Goat Dairy

I really enjoyed the trip to Hawaii, though I found it to be one of the most expensive places I have visited. Missing Big Island was unfortunate, but we would have needed a few more days for that. In Honolulu, we walked and went by public transport, but in Kaua'i and Maui, we rented cars, and that gave us the required mobility to cover the islands. Despite the easy going pace of life in Hawaii, the trip ended up being a little hectic because there was just so much to pack in. So it was perhaps not a typical romantic honeymoon, but it was a beautiful trip nevertheless!!