My Visual Travel Experience: Jaipur

The first time I got to visit Jaipur was way back in 1997. I was a Management Trainee in Britannia on my sales stint. The Area Sales Manager was Amir Aziz Shikalgar, the Sales Officer was Ravi Chand, and the Territory Sales In Charge was Ashish Sachar. Our distributor was Puroshottam of Capital Agencies, and our Carrying and Forwarding Agent was Sanjay Kapoor. I learned a lot from all these people, who were veterans in the sales and distribution trade compared to me. Later, in 2002, I went on to become Regional Sales Manager in Britannia and I got to visit the city a few more times. This time, I worked in Jaipur with people like the Area Sales Managers Atul Jain, Sudeep Goswami and Piyush Jain, and Sales Officers like Kamal Verma.

Whenever I could, I tried to take a few hours off or I tried to club my visits with a weekend, and I managed to see the city's various sites. Most recently, in 2013, I went there with nothing on my agenda other than sight seeing. In total, I've spent close to three weeks in this city, which is certainly one of India's most historical cities and has a sumptuous range of beautiful architecture and magnificent, colourful palaces and forts.

Jaipur is the capital of the western Indian state of Rajasthan, and has a population of over 3 million. It was founded in 1727 by Jai Singh II, the ruler of Amer, a village just 11 km away. In 1876, when the Albert, Prince of Wales, visited Jaipur, Sawai Ram Singh II painted the city in pink to welcome him. Even today, large parts of the historic city centre are pink in colour, and Jaipur is also referred to as the Pink City. 

During its relatively recent history, Jaipur’s various rulers have been Sawai Jai Singh II (1699-1743), Sawai Ishwari Singh (1743-1750), Sawai Madho Singh I (1750-1768), Sawai Prithvi Singh II (1768-1778), Sawai Pratap Singh (1778-1803), Sawai Jagat Singh (1803-1818), Mohan Singh (regent in 1818-1819), Sawai Jai Singh III (1819-1835), Sawai Ram Singh II (1835-1880), Sawai Madho Singh II (1880-1922) and Sawai Man Singh II (1922-1949). In 1947, India became Independent. In 1949, Jaipur and all other princely states merged into the union of India.

The City Palace has housed Jaipur’s rulers since the 18th century. A section of the palace is now a museum, called the Sawai Man Singh II Museum. The descendants of the royal family continue to reside at the.  Sawai Man Singh II was the last ruler to rule from City Palace. After Jaipur joined the Union of India, Sawai Man Singh II became he Governor of Rajasthan, and later the Ambassador to Spain. His third wife was Maharani Gayatri Devi, considered to be one of the most beautiful women in the world. Sawai Bhawani Singh took over in 1970 after Sawai Man Singh II’s death. He was the last titular Maharaja of Jaipur. Following his death in 2011, his grandson Padmanabh Singh was informally crowned Maharaja, though such titles were abolished in 1971.

Clock Tower, City Palace

Portrait of Sawai Man Singh II, City Palace

Tripolia Pol, City Palace

Chandra Mahal is where the royal family resides and this section of the palace is closed to the public. Chandra Mahal has seven floors, beautifully decorated.

Chandra Mahal, City Palace

Diwan I Khas, or Hall of Private Audience, boasts of 2 large silver urns, which are the world’s largest silver objects. When Madho Singh II visited London in 1901, sacred water from the Ganga was carried for him in these urns. Each urn is 1.6 meters tall, weighs 340 kg, and  has a capacity of 4,000 litres. The hall’s ceiling has some grand chandeliers.

Diwan I Khas, City Palace

Chandelier at Diwan I Khas, City Palace

 The palace's Pritam Niwas Chowk has 4 beautifully painted doorways.

Entrance to Pritam Niwas Chowk,
City Palace

Lotus Gate at Pritam Niwas Chowk,
City Palace

Peacock Gate at Pritam Niwas Chowk,
City Palace

Mubarak Mahal was built in 1900 by Madho Singh II to welcome guests to the palace. It now has the costume and textile gallery.  

Mubarak Mahal, City Palace

In the 18th century, Sawai Jai Singh II built five observatories spread across different towns. The one in Jaipur is the largest, the other ones being in Delhi, Ujjain, Mathura and Varanasi. Jaipur’s Jantar Mantar was completed in 1734, just opposite City Palace. It  has 16 astronomical instruments to tell the time, determine the position of stars, planets etc.

Laghu Samrat Yantra, Jantar Mantar

Hawa Mahal, also called the Palace of Winds, dates back to 1799. It was built by Sawai Pratap Singh. The interesting building has windows, balconies and screens. It is bright pink in colour. The idea behind the building was to allow the women of the harem to watch street processions without being seen themselves.

Hawa Mahal

Amber Fort was built by Man Singh I in 1592. It was built on the remains of an 11th century fort. In the 17th century, Jai Singh I added to the fort. In 1727, the capital moved from Amber to Jaipur. Amber Fort lies up on a hill. One can either go up by vehicle, or one can go up on elephant back along a pathway. One enters through Ganesh Pol, an impressive gateway with a painting of Lord Ganesh. Highlights of Amber Fort include Sheesh Mahal (a hall with numerous tiny mirrors; when a candle is light, the hall looks like a starlit sky), Jas Mandir (a hall with latticed windows and a floral ceiling) and the Shila Devi Temple.

Amber Fort

Ganesh Pol, Amber Fort

Interior of Jas Mandir, Amber Fort

Floral Design at Jas Mandir, Amber Fort

City Museum, also called the Government Central Museum (earlier Albert Hall), was commissioned by Sawai Ram Singh II to commemorate the visit by Albert, Prince of Wales, in 1876. It was built in Indo Saracenic style. The grand building lies in the middle of Ram Niwas Gardens. The museum has a wide array of objects on display, including metal ware, Jaipur glazed pottery, sculptures, Mughal and Rajasthani miniature paintings, a famous Persian carpet, and even an Egyptian mummy.

City Museum

Durga Statue, City Museum

Jaipur Blue Pottery, City Museum

Porcelain Jug, City Museum

Buddha Painting, City Museum

Jal Mandir, or Water Palace, was built by Madho Singh I in the middle of the 18th century. The structure consists of a terrace garden with towers on all corners, and lies in the middle of a lake, Man Sagar. One can spot a wide variety of water birds there.  

Jal Mandir

Jaigarh Fort lies on a hill overlooking Amber Fort. It was built in 1726 by Sawai Jai Singh II to protect Amber Fort. The fort houses one of the world’s largest cannons.

Jaigarh Fort

Tripolia Bazaar lies just outside City Palace, and is a vibrant, colourful market. Johari Bazaar, another popular market, lies parallel to it. Bapu Bazaar in the same area is famous for its Rajasthani quilts, among numerous other items sold there.

Tripolia Bazaar

Hanuman Mandir, Johari Bazaar

Quilt, Bapu Bazaar

Sanghaneri Gate is one of the gateways into the old city. It’s where Johari Bazaar starts from its intersection with Mirza Ismail Road.

Sanghaneri Gate

Rambagh Palace was built in 1835 as a small pavilion for Ram Singh II’s wet nurse. It later became a hunting lodge. Madho Singh II made it into a royal playground for different sports activities. In 1933, it became the residence of Man Singh II. In 1949, when Rajasthan became a state in the Indian Union, it became the residence of the Head of State. In 1957, it became a hotel and is now one of India’s most luxurious and opulent hotels. Ram Vilas is another one of the city’s luxury hotels, run by the Oberoi Group. Rajputana Sheraton, run by the Sheraton Group, is yet another high end hotel.

Rambagh Palace

Mughal Garden, Rambagh Palace

Jaipur is known for its folk music and dances. Shows can be seen at the City Palace, and at Chokhi Dhani, a recreation of a traditional Rajasthani village, with folk performances, camel rides and traditional Rajasthani vegetarian food.

Folk Performance

For food, one is spoiled for choice in Jaipur. The high end hotels like Rambagh Palace, Raj Vilas and Rajputana Sheraton offer a variety of restaurants cutting across cuisines. On MI Road, three favourites are Niros (with its continental cuisine), Copper Chimney (with its India food) and Handi (with its North Indian tandoori food). Laxmi Mishtan Bhandar (or LMB) is famous for its traditional North India vegetarian food as well as its sweets. In Chokhi Dhani, one can get to experience traditional Rajasthani vegetarian food.

In my opinion, Jaipur is one of India's most colourful and interesting cities to visit. Its proximity to Delhi makes it easily accessible. The City Palace and Amber Fort are two of the grandest and most magnificent palaces in the country. Rambagh Palace has luxuries that are hard for any hotel to compete with. The sights and sounds of the buzzing bazaars of the old city have that old world charm that take one back in time by a couple of centuries. Yes, parts of it could certainly be cleaner, but Jaipur is certainly a fascinating city and its strong culture, its great food options and its friendly people only add to what the city has to offer in terms of its stupendous architecture.

My Visual Travel Experience: Munich

I've spent a total of a week in the German city of Munich, spread across four visits in 2001, 2006, 2007 and 2011, the most recent one being with my then fiance and now wife, Kamalini. I've really enjoyed exploring the city. My wife has far less fond memories, because when we got to Munich, she fell ill. It turned out to be a case of exhaustion, from extensive travels across Europe over a 2 week period. I arranged for food for her, made sure she was comfortable in her hotel bed, and went off for a couple of hours to explore the city. She wasn't at all pleased, because as she always reminds me, I deserted her and left when she was unwell. I didn't mean to, but having made sure she was comfortable in her hotel room, I couldn't resist stepping out to walk around the city centre. In all fairness, I was terribly upset about our day not going as per plan, plus I was never more than a 10 minute walk away from the hotel where she was resting!

The Neues Rathaus, with the spires of
the Frauenkirche in the background

Munich is the capital of the German state of Bavaria, has a population of over 1.4 million, and is the country’s third largest city, after Berlin and Hamburg. The city's history dates back to the the year 1158 AD, when it housed a monastery by monks of the Benedictine Order. In 1180, Otto I Wittelsbach became Duke of Bavaria, and Munich was his capital. The Wittelsbach dynasty ruled until 1918. Catholic Munich resisted the Reformation, and was briefly occupied by the Protestant Swedes. Bavaria became a sovereign kingdom in 1806 and Munich continued as its capital. The House of Wittelsbach abdicated in 1918 during the German Revolution. Munich was a major centre for the Nazis and the city was extensively damaged in World War II. The city was painstakingly restored to its former glory in the post war years. It went on to host the 1972 Summer Olympic Games. In the 1980’s, it went on to become a major business hub, and companies like BMW and Siemens have their bases here.

Frauenkirche serves as the main cathedral of Munich. The church’s twin onion shaped bell  towers stand at a height of 99 meters. There was an earlier church at the spot, but the current structure was completed in 1488 and the towers were added in 1524. The massive church has a capacity to accommodate 20,000 people, though back in those days, the city only had 13,000 residents.

The towers of Frauenkirche

Tomb of Louis IV, Holy Roman Emperor, at Frauenkirche

Peter Candid's The Assumption of the Virgin,
at Frauenkirche

Bronze Panel of Pope John Paul II,
at Frauenkirche

Bronze Panel of Pope Benedict XVI,
at Frauenkirche

An earlier church stood at the site of Peterskirche but was destroyed in a big fire in 1327. The church was rebuilt in 1368 and its tower, the 91 meter Alter Peter, was built in the 17th century. The church is the oldest church in the city.

Peterskirche, with the Alter Dom

The Nave, Peterskirche

Ceiling Fresco of the Martyrdom of St Peter,
Peterskirche

Ceiling Fresco of the Holy Trinity,
Peterskirche

The Organ, Peterskirche

Heiliggeistkirche was originally built in the 14th century but was subsequently remodeled in 1730. It was originally a gothic church but now has a neo baroque interior. The church was damaged in World War II and was then extensively renovated.

Heiliggeistkirche

Ceiling Frescoes, Heiliggeistkirche

High Altar, Heiliggeistkirche

Burgersaal is a church built in 1710. It has an Upper Church and a Lower Church. The Upper Church has a rich baroque interior with intricate ceiling frescoes. The Lower Church has a series of sculptures from the life of Christ.

Interior of the Upper Church, Burgersaal

Virgin and Child Panel at the
Lower Church, Burgersaal

Crucifixion Panel at the
Lower Church, Burgersaal

The Nailing to the Cross Panel at the
Lower Church, Burgersaal

Entombment Panel at the
Lower Church, Burgersaal

Theatinerkirche was built in 1690. The church was built by Elector Ferdinand Maria and his wife Henriette, to commemorate the birth of the heir to the Bavarian Crown, Prince Max Emanuel, in 1662. The church was built in Italian baroque style.  It has two 66 meter high bell towers and a 71 meter high dome. It has a distinctive yellow colour on its exterior.

Theatinerkirche

High Altar, Theatinerkirche

Interior of Dome, Theatinerkirche

Marienplatz is a pedestrian only square in the heart of Munich, and has been the city’s main square since 1159. In 1638, the Mariensaule, a column dedicated to the Virgin Mary, was built in the centre of the square. The Neues Rathaus (the new town hall) and the Altes Rathaus (the old town hall) both lie on Marienplatz. Other Munich landmarks like Frauenkirche, Peterskirche and Heiliggeistkirche lie close by.

Marienplatz with the Mariensaule

The Neues Rathaus on Marienplatz is where the city council office and the office of the mayor lie. In 1874, the offices shifted from the Altes Rathaus due to paucity of space. The Neues Rathaus has 400 rooms. The clock tower stands at a height of 85 meters. At regular intervals, the mechanical figures of the clock tower move, displaying a knights tournament at the wedding of Bavarian Duke William V in 1568. The celler of the building houses a restaurant, the Ratskeller.  

Neues Rathaus

Dragon Sculpture, Neues Rathaus

Mechanical Figures, Neues Rathaus

The castle shaped Altes Rathaus on Marienplatz was where the town hall was located until 1874. Its spire is one of Munich’s landmarks.

Altes Rathaus

Neuhauserstrasse is the main pedestrian street in the heart of Munich and dates back to the 13th century. It goes from Karlsplatz, past the church of Burgersaal, then the city’s main square, Marienplatz, and beyond, for a total length of 350 meters. A section of the street is known as Kaufingerstrasse. The street is full of shops and restaurants.  Karlsplatz  is a large square named after Charles Theodore, Elector of Bavaria. The square has the Karlstor, a gothic gateway to the now demolished medieval fortifications. Other gateways of the city include the Isartor and the Propylaen.

Hirmer Building on Neuhauserstrasse

Kaufingertor on Kaufingerstrasse

Isartor

The Justizpalast, or Palace of Justice, was built in 1897 in neo baroque style with a large dome. The building houses the Bavarian Department of Justice and the District Court of Munich.

Justizpalast

Hofgarten is a Renaissance garden built in 1617 by Maximilan I, Elector of Bavaria. In the centre of the garden, there is a pavilion dedicated to the Goddess Diana. The Residenz lies at one end of Hofgarten. The Residenz is Germany's largest city palace, and was the residence of the city's Wittelsbach rulers. 

Pavilion, Hofgarten

Munich also has some fine museums. Alte Pinakothek is one of the world's leading art museums featuring paintings from the classical era, with some of the world's best known old masters like Albrecht Durer, Lucas Cranach, Pieter Brueghel the Elder, Jan Brueghel the Elder, Peter Paul Rubens, Rembrandt van Rijn, Francois Boucher, Leonardo da Vinci, Sandro Botticelli and Tintoretto. The nearby Neue Pinakotek has more recent art from the 19th century. It features some of the biggest artists from the period, including the likes of Francisco de Goya, and impressionist masters like Pierre Auguste Renoir, Edouard Manet, Claude Monet, Paul Cezanne, Paul Gauguin and Vincent Van Gogh. There are also sculptures by Auguste Rodin and Pablo Picasso. The Pinakothek der Moderne houses paintings from the 20th century. The Deutsches Museum is a large museum of science and technology. Glyptothek is a museum that houses Roman and Greek sculptures, and the neoclassical building was completed in 1830.

Peter Paul Rubens' Portrait of
his Second Wife, Alte Pinakotek

Boucher's The Marquis of Pompadou,
Alte Pinakotek

Tintoretto's Venus and Mars with Vulcan,
Alte Pinakotek

The Oktoberfest is an annual event in the month of October, when hoards of tourists flock to the city for its beer and Bratwurst, the famous German sausages. The Hofbrauhaus is the best known of Munich's beer halls, and it has the capacity to accommodate 10,000 people at a time! The Augustinerbrau on Neuheuserstrasse is another well known beer hall and restaurant.

Munich also has other attractions like the Schloss Nymphenburg, a beautiful baroque palace that was the summer residence of the city's Wittelsbach rulers. The city also has the 291 meter tall Olympia Turm situated in Olympiapark. Olympia Turm is an observation and broadcasting tower and was built in 1968 in time for the 1972 Olympics. It's possible to go up the tower, for lovely panoramic views, and a revolving restaurant. Nearby, there's the BMW Museum, which is very appropriate given that the auto major is headquartered there.

The city's public transport is very efficient, and a wide section of the city is connected by the U Bahn, the local metro. Getting around is simple. The central area around the Hauptbahnhof, the main station, is full of hotels, many of them fairly reasonably priced. There are also numerous restaurants, bars and strip clubs in the area. 

The fairy-tale castle of Neuschwannstein is barely a couple of hours away by train, close to the town of Fussen. I have been jinxed with that castle. The first time I tried visiting, I traveled all the way only to find that I was half an hour too late and they had closed visits for the day. I got a glimpse just from outside. The second time I made an attempt was during that fateful trip when my wife fell ill. We had prepaid tickets for a coach trip, but we had to let those go and lose a considerable amount of money. I do hope to get rid of the jinx and visit some day in the near future!

For me, Munich is one of the most interesting cities in not just Germany, but in all of Europe. The clinchers are the city's magnificent churches, its charming pedestrian city centre full of shops and eateries, its splendid museums, its grand palaces, and of course its beer and Bratwurst!