Saturday, October 24, 2020

My Visual Travel Experience: Bhubaneswar

In 2007, I got a chance to visit Bhubaneswar on work. As I always did whenever I got the opportunity, I clubbed my work with a weekend, and managed to stay in the city for three days. I visited some of the city's best known temples, and I also had an added incentive - back then, my cousin was living there with her British husband. It was great to spend time with them. And it was a delightful experience to see the city's ancient, yet beautiful temples!

Bhubaneswar is the capital of the eastern Indian state of Odisha. The city has a population of over 830,000 and is also popularly known as the Temple City of India, thanks to the large number of well known temples it boasts of. 

The history of the region can be traced back to the 7th century BC. Many of the city’s temples date back to the 7th to the 14th centuries, and are a beautiful example of Kalinga architecture. The Mauryan Emperor, Ashoka, annexed Kalinga in 262 BC. In subsequent centuries, the region was ruled by several dynasties – the Mahameghavahana Dynasty, the Satavahana Dynasty, the Gupta Dynasty, the Matharas Dynasty, the Shailodbhava Dynasty, the Keshari Dynasty (which ruled from the 7th century till the 14th century), and the Karrani Dynasty.

In the 16th century, the region came under Mughal control. In the mid 18th century, the Marathas came to power. In 1803, the British took control. The region was then a part of the Bengal Presidency (1803-1912), Bihar and Orissa Province (1912-1936), and Orissa Province (1936-1947). After India’s independence from the British in 1947, Cuttack was made the capital of Orissa.

Despite the region’s rich history, Bhubaneswar itself is a modern city. The German architect, Otto Konigsberger, designed it in 1946. In 1949, the capital of Orissa shifted from Cuttack to Bhubaneswar. The decision was taken due to space constraints in Cuttack, and the city’s vulnerability to floods. Bhubaneswar is one of India’s few planned, modern cities, along with Chandigarh and Jamshedpur. In 2011, the name of Orissa was changed formally to Odisha. 

Lingaraja Temple is the city’s largest and best known temple. It has a 55 meter tall tower. The temple has a large complex wall, and there are a total of over 50 shrines inside. Lingaraja Temple dates back to the 11th century.
Lingaraja Temple
Rajarani Temple was built in the 11th century. It is also known as “Love Temple” because of the erotic sculptures of women along the temple’s pillars. The temple’s tower rises to a height of 18 meters. 
Rajarani Temple
Apsara, Rajarani Temple
Carved Pillar, Rajarani Temple
Mukteswar Temple is a 10th century temple. The temple has a distinctive torana, or entrance gateway, that makes it stand apart from other Bhubaneswar temples. The tower is 10.5 meters tall. The temple’s interior has beautiful sculptures of female forms, with nagas and naginis. 
Mukteswar Temple
Main Shrine, Mukteswar Temple
Gateway, Mukteswar Temple
Linga, Mukteswar Temple
Parasurameswara Temple dates back to the 7th century. It is one of the city’s oldest temples, and is dedicated to Lord Shiva. The temple has a tower that has a height of 12 meters. It is a ticketed monument, maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). 
Parasurameswara Temple
Siddheshwar Temple dates back to the 10th century. It is situated within the premises of Mukteswar Temple. The sanctum sanctorum is dedicated to Lord Shiva, but the temple is also famous for a Ganesh idol. 
Siddheshwar Temple
I didn't get to see all the famous temples in the Temple City of India, but I did get to see some of the best known ones. The sheer beauty of the temples was mesmerising, and I was even more awe-struck when I discovered that the temples I saw were all around a thousand years old! It was also very heartening that the temples have been maintained well, and kept very clean. All in all, Bhubaneswar was a pleasure to visit.

Tuesday, October 13, 2020

My Visual Travel Experience: Venice

I've had the opportunity of visiting Venice on a couple of occasions. I went there as a teenager on a family trip in the late 1980s, and then I went for a few days in 2007. I was really taken in by this unique, beautiful city, with its unique canals and bridges, and its grand churches. On my first visit, I had my pouch around my neck, and my pouch had my passport and other valuables. As a restless teenager, I was on a gondola ride, and I started swinging my pouch around. It slipped from my hands and fell into the Grand Canal! Gosh, that could have had disastrous consequences, but the friendly gondola rider of the gondola behind ours managed to use his oar to fish out my pouch!

Venice is one of the world’s most unique cities. It has a population of about 260,000, and is situated in north-eastern Italy. It is built on a group of 118 small islands, separated by canals, and connected by 400 bridges. No vehicles are allowed in the city, and one has to go either by foot or by boat. Public transport in Venice means going in the boat “buses”! Venice is considered to be one of the world’s most beautiful and romantic cities, and is immensely popular with tourists. The city has been sinking at the rate of 1 to 2 mm per year, and this has been an area of concern.

The city was the capital of the Republic of Venice from 697 to 1797. In the medieval ages, Venice was a major centre for finance, trade, culture, music, and art. It was an extremely prosperous city, but it was devastated by the Black Death in 1348 and 1575-77, and by the Plague in 1629-31. The Republic of Venice was annexed in 1797 by the Austrian Empire after the Napoleonic Wars. In 1866, it became a part of the Kingdom of Italy. 

The Grand Canal runs through the city, and is the widest of Venice’s many canals. It ends in the sea, close to the city’s main landmark, St Mark’s Basilica. Venice has numerous churches, and St Mark’s Basilica is by far the best known. From the many bridges present in the city, Rialto Bridge is the most famous. The city is also known for the Doge’s Palace, close to St Mark’s Basilica, and several prominent museums. 

The world renowned St Mark’s Basilica has stunning Italo – Byzantine architecture. The church dates back to the 11th century. The church is famous for the Horses of St Mark, the interior based on a Greek cross, a series of domes, mosaics covering the interior, and the treasury. The basilica stands close to the end of the Grand Canal, where it meets the Adriatic Sea.
St Mark's Basilica
Mosaic, St Mark's Basilica
Mosaic of the Deposition, St Mark's Basilica
St Mark’s Square is a large public square outside St Mark’s Basilica. Besides the basilica, other landmarks along the large square include the 98 meter tall St Mark’s Campanile (the basilica’s bell tower), and St Mark’s Clock Tower (completed in 1499). At any time of day, the large square is full of tourists, and countless pigeons! There are many restaurants and cafes around the square.
St Mark's Square
St Mark's Campanile, St Mark's Square
St Mark's Clock Tower, St Mark's Square
Santa Maria della Salute is a Roman Catholic church built in 1687. The white coloured church has a large dome. The church was built after a major outbreak of the plague in 1630, where scores of Venetians were killed.
Santa Maria della Salute
San Giorgio Maggiore is a Beneditine church on San Giorgio island. The church was completed in 1610. From the campanile (Bell tower), one gets great views of Venice. 
San Giorgio Maggiore
San Giorgio dei Greci is a Greek Orthodox church, completed towards the end of the 16th century. The white coloured church has a dome and a bell tower. The interior boasts of some famous icons.
San Giorgio dei Greci
Santa Maria della Pieta is a church that was completed in 1760. It lies adjacent to the Doge’s Palace, near St Mark’s Basilica. The interior has fresco paintings by the famous Italian artist, Tiepolo. 
Santa Maria della Pieta
Vittoria Emmanuelle II Statue outside Santa Maria della Pieta
San Zaccaria is a church completed in 1515. The interior of the church has some prominent works of art by famous painters like Giovanni Bellini. 
San Zaccaria
Rialto Bridge is the oldest of the four bridges over the Grand Canal. The stone arch bridge was completed in 1591. Two covered ramps, full of shops, lead up to a covered portico. The bridge is a major tourist attraction.
Rialto Bridge
Ponte della Paglia is a bridge completed in 1847. The original bridge was built in 1360. The bridge offers a great view of the Bridge of Sighs.
Ponte della Paglia
The Venetian experience is incomplete without a romantic gondola ride along the city’s canals - gondola riders sing romantic Italian songs to couples.
Gondola Riders at St Mark's Square
Venice is truly fascinating. Yes, the city is not without its share of troubles, because it is often prone to flooding, plus the sheer number of tourists can be quite daunting. Still, the city has a charm like no other place. The city has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is rightly known by various apt names, including "Queen of the Adriatic", "City of Water", "City of Masks", "City of Bridges", "Floating City", and "City of Canals". An unmissable experience indeed!

Saturday, September 26, 2020

My Visual Travel Experience: Abu Dhabi

Abu Dhabi is the capital of the United Arab Emirates (UAE). The city has a population of approximately 1.8 million, and is the city's second largest city after Dubai. The government of the UAE, the Supreme Petroleum Council, and the President of the UAE are all based in Abu Dhabi. The city is highly developed and prosperous, thanks to its large oil reserves. It is the country's centre of politics, culture and industry, though many would argue it lags behind Dubai in terms of business, finance, and tourism.

Abu Dhabi literally means "father of the gazelle". Historically, the region had an abundance of gazelles. In 1793, the Nahyan family, which currently rules Abu Dhabi, moved to the region because of the presence of freshwater. In its early years, Abu Dhabi had a thriving pearl diving industry. In the 1930s, oil exploration started in a big way. In the late 1950s oil was struck, and in subsequent years, there were other significant oil finds that led to a lot of prosperity in the region.

Abu Dhabi was planned under the guidance of Sheikh Zayed in 1967 by a Japanese architect. It was originally planned for a population of 40,000. The city has a high-rise financial district, which includes the iconic Etihad Towers. Other landmarks of Abu Dhabi include the super luxury hotel, Emirates Palace; one of the world’s largest mosques, Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque; the popular amusement park, Ferrari World Abu Dhabi; and Louvre Abu Dhabi, a large museum set up in collaboration with the French government.

Emirates Palace is a luxury hotel that opened in 2005 and is operated by the Kempinski Group. The hotel has a grand dome, and 114 other smaller domes. The hotel was constructed at a cost of USD 3 billion! The hotel consists of almost 400 residences. The penthouse floor has six rulers’ suites for dignitaries.

Emirates Palace

Lobby, Emirates Palace

Interior of the Dome, Emirates Palace

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque was completed in 2007 and is the largest mosque in the UAE. The huge mosque can accommodate 40,000 people, and the main hall can take 7,000 worshippers. The four minarets at the four corners rise to a height of 107 meters., while the dome has a height of 85 meters. The carpet in the main prayer hall is one of the world’s largest carpets. The mosque’s largest chandelier has a height of 15 meters. 

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque

Interior with Chandelier, Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque

Wall Motif, Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque

Heritage Village is an artificial village that showcases local culture. It has a museum that has  everyday objects traditionally used by the local population. It also has recreations of local architecture with wind tunnels.

Wind Tunnel, Heritage Village

Belt, Heritage Village

Manuscript, Heritage Village

Sock, Heritage Village

Pot, Heritage Village

Ferrari World is an amusement park on Yas Island. It opened in 2010. It has the world’s fastest roller coaster, Formula Rossa. The park features various models of the iconic Ferrari car that can be seen. At an extra cost, one can also have the experience of driving a Ferrari oneself. There are also 4 D rides on offer, and a ride through miniature Italy. 
Red Ferrari from the 1960s, Ferrari World

Silver Ferrari, Ferrari World

Roller Coaster, Ferrari World

Etihad Towers are a series of five towers, the tallest of which stands at a height of 305 meters.  The complex was completed in 2011 and had an observatory at 281 meters. The towers feature offices, apartments and a luxury hotel.

Etihad Towers

Abu Dhabi is famous for its large malls, and its traditional markets, and is quite a shoppers' paradise. Some of the city's best known shopping destinations include Abu Dhabi Mall, Marina Mall, Yas Mall, World Trade Center Mall, and the traditional Fish Market.

Abu Dhabi Mall


Interior, Abu Dhabi Mall

Marina Mall

Interior, Yas Mall

Fish Market

I spent a day in Abu Dhabi in 2016, during a visit to UAE where I spent most of my time in Dubai, but I also visited Sharjah. I was very impressed by Abu Dhabi's wealth and prosperity, its sky scrapers and architecture, the uber luxurious Emirates Palace, and Sheikh Zayed Mosque. My visit was just before the inauguration of Louvre Abu Dhabi - visiting that would be a compelling reason to go the the city again!

Friday, August 28, 2020

My Visual Travel Experience: Varanasi

I have visited Varanasi on several occasions, on work, and to explore the city. My most recent trip was in 2010. I have been fascinated by the magnetic pull of the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, and the Ghats along the banks of the River Ganga. People are drawn here by the millions, and the city is one of India's most popular pilgrimage sites. The narrow by-lanes in the heart of the city, where there is no scope for vehicles to go, have left me amazed. I have enjoyed going on boat rides along the River Ganga, admiring the temples and grand structures along the Ghats.

Varanasi also holds a special place in my heart, because it was here that my father proposed to my mother, at Clarks Hotel, way back in December 1964. She said yes, and they got married a week later and left for New York, where my father was posted back then.

Varanasi, also known as Benaras or Kashi, is situated in the eastern part of Uttar Pradesh, India’s most populous state. It has a population of over 1.2 million. The city lies along the banks of the River Ganga, and is one of India’s holiest cities. Buddha is supposed to have founded Buddhism here in 528 AD, when he preached in Sarnath, just outside the city. The Mughal Emperor Akbar patronised the city and built two large temples here. A lot of the current city dates back to the 18th century, to the period of the Marathas and the Brumihar Brahmin kings.


Hindus believe that dying here and being cremated along the banks of the River Ganga allows one to attain salvation and break free from the cycle of rebirth. The city is best known for its Ghats along the river, and two of the Ghats are used for cremation. Varanasi has over 23,000 temples, and the most famous one is the Kashi Vishwanath Temple. The city is also a big cultural hub, and several prominent writers, poets, musicians and philosophers have come from it. It also has the famous Benaras Hindu University, one of Asia’s largest residential universities.


The Ghats are riverside steps leading down to the River Ganga. Varanasi has 88 Ghats. Most are for bathing and prayer ceremonies, and two are for cremations. A majority of the Ghats date back to the 18th century, and were made under the Marathas. Prayag Ghat is one of the city's most prominent Ghats.

Prayag Ghat

Linga, Prayag Ghat

Nandi Statue, Prayag Ghat

Dashashwamedh Ghat is another one of the best known Ghats. It lies close to the Kashi Vishwanath Temple. Every evening, the Ghat sees an “Agni Pooja” dedicated to Lord Shiva, the River Ganga, the Sun God Surya, the Fire God Agni, and the whole universe. A lot of believers find this to be an extremely spiritual experience.

Dashashwamedh Ghat

Deity at Dashashwamedh Ghat

There are many other Ghats in Varanasi, including Darbhanga Ghat, Digpatiya Ghat, Manikarnika Ghat (where cremations take place) and Nepali Ghat.

Darbhanga Ghat

Digpatiya Ghat

Manikarnika Ghat

Nepali Ghat

Kashi Vishwanath Temple lies not far off from the Ghats. It is dedicated to Lord Shiva. It is one of the 12 Jyotirlingas, the holiest of Shiva temples. The temple was destroyed several times in its history, most recently by Emperor Aurangzeb in 1669. The present temple dates back to 1780, when it was built by Maharani Ahilyabai Holkar.  The temple went through several rounds of expansion subsequently. In 1835, Maharaja Ranjit Singh donated 1 ton of gold to plate the temple’s dome.

Kashi Vishwanath Temple
Image From Public Domain

Durga Mandir is dedicated to Goddess Durga. It dates back to the 18th century and was built by Rani Bhabani of Natore.

Durga Mandir

Shri Vishwanath Temple is situated inside Benaras Hindu University. The temple was built by the Birla family and was completed in 1966. The temple’s tower is 77 meters high, and is made largely of marble.

Shri Vishwanath Temple

Bharat Kala Bhawan is a museum inside the Benaras Hindu University campus. The museum moved to its present location in 1962. The artefacts on display include Buddhist and Hindu sculptures, paintings, Miniature paintings from the Mughal era, textiles, pottery, jewellery and ivory items.

Alice Boner's Creation, Bharat Kala Bhawan

Dancing Ganesha, Bharat Kala Bhavan

Shiva and Parvati, Bharat Kala Bhawan
Varanasi is certainly a fascinating city. It has that unique spiritual energy that is very uplifting. I was sad to see that the Ghats were not kept clean, and hygiene was a real concern. That really took away from what would have otherwise been an amazing experience. However, from what I've heard, in recent years, there have been huge efforts to clean up the Ghats and the River Ganga. With these enhanced steps, Varanasi is undoubtedly a place not to be missed by pilgrims, by travelers interested in temple architecture, and by visitors who are interested in Hinduism and the spiritual side of India.