My Visual Travel Experience: Moscow

I spent almost a week in Moscow in 2010. My half Russian - half Indian friend, Nikita Vats, stays in Moscow, and I stayed at his place. I also spent a night at the home of my cousin Rudru and his wife Ritu. Rudru is an Indian Foreign Service officer and he was serving in Moscow back then. My hosts were very hospitable. Nikita really spoon-fed me, and gave me detailed guidance on public transport routes, which was most useful because language is an issue in Russia.

Moscow has a population of over 12 million and is one of the world's largest cities. It has an interesting history. It was the capital of Russia in the medieval ages. Ivan the Terrible (Ivan IV) was the first Tsar of Russia, having been crowned in 1547. In 1613, the Romanov Dynasty came to the throne. Peter the Great was one of the most powerful of the Russian Tsars, and he ruled from 1682 to 1725. He moved the capital from Moscow to a new city he built, St Petersburg, which was the capital for the next 2 centuries. Peter's daughter, Elizabeth I, ruled from 1741 to 1762, and her reign saw further consolidation of power. Catherine the Great ruled from 1762 to 1796 and was another of Russia's most powerful leaders. Tsar Nicholas II was the last of the Russian Tsars and was executed in 1917 during the Russia Revolution that brought in socialism under the Bolshevik leader Vladimir Lenin. The capital shifted back to Moscow subsequently. Lenin was in power until his death in 1924, and is seen by many as the father of socialism. In 1922, the Soviet Union (also called the USSR) was formed, consisting of 15 republics, of which Russia was by far the largest. The Socialists ruled over the Soviet Union until 1991, after which we saw the advent of democracy initiated by Mikhail Gorbachev and taken forward by Boris Yeltsin. What followed was the break-up of the Soviet Union. Russia emerged as the single largest country of the former Soviet Union, with Moscow as its capital.

The Kremlin is the first place where most visitors start their Moscow sight seeing. It is the country's power centre and is enclosed within a fortified area. It dates back to the 15th century. The premises is home to some stunning medieval cathedrals. In the Soviet era, it was the headquarters of the Soviet Union, and even today has the residence of the Russian President. Highlights include the Trinity Tower (the main gateway), the 40 ton Tsar Cannon, the 200 ton Tsar Bell, the Ivan the Great Bell Tower, and churches like Cathedral of the Annunciation, Cathedral of the Archangel, and Cathedral of the Assumption. It's not difficult spending a full day in and around the Kremlin.

Trinity Tower, Kremlin

Cathedral of the Annunciation, Kremlin

Cathedral of the Archangel, Kremlin

Cathedral of the Assumption, Kremlin

Ivan the Great Bell Tower, Kremlin

Tsar's Bell, Kremlin

Tsar's Cannon, Kremlin

Alexander Gardens lie close to the Kremlin. The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier lies in Alexander Gardens.

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, Alexander Gardens

 Adjoining the Kremlin, there's also the famous Red Square. The large square is the venue of state celebrations and parades. It has Lenin's Mausoleum (where the Communist leader's body lies embalmed), the Historical Museum, the Resurrection Gate, Point Zero (the geographical centre of the city) and Gum Department Store.

Gum Department Store, Red Square

Lenin's Mausoleum, Red Square

Resurrection Gate, Red Square

Mosaic at Resurrection Gate, Red Square

St Basil’s Cathedral, at one end of Red Square, was commissioned by Ivan the Terrible in 1552, to celebrate the victory over the Mongols in Kazan. It is one of Moscow’s main landmarks and is instantly recognisable, with its colourful exterior and onion shaped domes. Outside the cathedral, there is the sculpture of Minin and Pozharskiy, who helped defeat the Poles in the 17th century.

St Basil's Cathedral

Kazan Cathedral, on Red Square, is a replica of the 1637 original demolished by Stalin in 1937. The reconstructed cathedral was completed in 1993. The original was built to commemorate the victory over the Poles.

Kazan Cathedral

Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts has a very impressive collection of classical paintings, impressionist paintings and casts of world famous sculptures. The building was completed in 1912. Russian artists don't feature in this museum - they feature in the grand collection at Tretyakov Gallery.

Cranach's Virgin and Child,
Pushkin Museum of Art

Bouchard's Jupiter and Callisto,
Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts

Cezanne's Bathers,
Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts

Van Gogh's Dr Rey,
Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts

Matisse's Goldfish,
Pushkin Museum of Art

Dega's Blue Dancers,
Pushkin Museum of Art

She Wolf (Capitoline Museum, Rome), 
Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts

Michelangelo's David (The Academy, Florence), 
Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts

Venus di Melo (The Louvre, Paris), 
Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts

Michelangelo's Pieta (St Peter's Basilica, Vatican City),
Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts

The gilded Church of Christ the Redeemer was re-built in 1997 at a staggering cost of US$ 200 million, to replace the original destroyed in 1931 by Stalin. Stalin had an unfinished vision of building a Soviet monument. The original was built to commemorate the Russian victory over Napoleon in the early 1800s under the reign of Tsar Alexander I.

Church of Christ the Redeemer

Novodevichiy Convent was built in 1524 to celebrate the Russian victory over Lithuania. Only the Cathedral of the Virgin of Smolensk dates back to that period. Other construction was under Regent Sophia in the late 1600s. Highlights include the Bell Tower, Cathedral of the Virgin of Smolensk, Naprudnaya Tower (Where Peter the Great imprisoned his half-sister Regent Sophia), Gate Church of Transfiguration and Novodevichiy Cemetery (where dignitaries like Soviet President Nikita Kruschev are buried).

Cathedral of the Virgin of Smolensk,
Novodevichiy Convent

Naprudnaya Tower, Novodevichiy Convent

Tsaritsa's Tower, Novodevichiy Convent

Kolomenskoe dates back to Ivan I in the 1300s but it went through  major expansion work during the reign of Tsar Alexis Mikhailovich, the father of Peter the Great. A beautiful wooden palace built by the Tsar once stood there but it was demolished by Catherine the Great. It has the Saviour's Gate, the Front Gate, Church of Our Lady of Kazan, Church of the Ascension and Peter the Great's Wooden Cabin.

Church of Our Lady of Kazan,
Kolomenskoe

Church of the Ascension,
Kolomenskoe

Front Gate,
Kolomenskoe

Peter the Great's Wooden Cabin,
Kolomenskoe

Kuskovo was the residence of the wealthy Sheremetev family and work commenced on the palatial residence in 1743 after the marriage of Count Pyotr Sheremetev to Varvara Cherkasskaya. The complex has a lot of beautiful attractions like the Wooden Palace, the Church of the Archangel Michael,  the Grotto, the Orangerie, the Italian Cottage, the Swiss Cottage and the Dutch Cottage.

Church of the Archangel Michael,
Kuskovo

Grotto, Kuskovo

Orangerie, Kuskovo

Wooden Palace, Kuskovo

Obelisk, Kuskovo

Aviary, Kuskovo

The impressive Gothic Stalinist Moscow University building is one of 7 such buildings constructed in the city during Lenin’s reign.

Moscow University

Moscow has an extensive Metro network, dating back to the 1930s. Some of the metro stations are sites in themselves, boasting of impressive works of art.

Belorusskaya Metro Station

Language was an issue for me in Moscow because I found that not many people spoke English. Signs were largely in Cyrillic script and not in the Roman script, so that didn't make life any easier. But equipped with a good map of Moscow and my DK Eyewitness travel book, I didn't face any problems as such. Despite the language barrier, people were friendly. I had several people walking up to me, and initiating conversations in Russian, where they asked if I was from India, and then they went on to talk about the Bollywood actor Raj Kapoor, who was popular there.

One evening, Nikita took me out drinking to a bar. We enjoyed drinking Russian Vodka. The trips to and back from the bar were interesting. We didn't go by public transport or taxi. Nikita hailed regular cars, negotiated rates, and that's how we traveled. I believe that's quite common in Russia. I also found traveling by Aeroflot quite unique. In each sector that I flew, when we landed all passengers broke into an applause. I hadn't experienced that before, but I believe it is the norm in Russia!

All in all, a great visit! I enjoyed myself, and came back enriched with knowledge about Russia's interesting history and culture. I was very impressed by the architecture, and by the works of art. The informal and warm nature of the people (despite the language barrier) was heartening too.