Friday, June 1, 2018

My Visual Travel Experience: Bangkok

Bangkok is a city I have visited on four occasions, in 2001, 2007, 2011 and 2015. I've spent a total of more than 10 days there. It was one of the first destinations I went to when I started my solo international travels.

My wife's cousin, Samrat Bose, lives in Bangkok with his wife Manisha, and their two children, Isha and Aryan. On our most recent visit, they were our hosts, and it was wonderful to spend time with them and get to know them better. They were very warm and hospitable, and our little son Rehaan (who was just over a year old then) had a good time with the kids.

Bangkok has a population of over 8.2 million and is the capital of Thailand. What draws a lot of travelers to Bangkok is the buzzing night life, particularly along Soi Patpong, which is lined with night clubs, striptease bars and massage parlours, giving Bangkok the reputation of being one of the naughtiest cities in the world, perhaps second only to Amsterdam! However, there is so much more to Bangkok. The city has a strong character, and is very eclectic and interesting, with its absolutely stunning Buddhist temples, thriving markets, friendly people and delicious cuisines.

Bangkok dates back to the 15th century AD, when it was a village on the west banks of Chao Phraya River under the rule of Ayutthaya. In 1767, Ayutthaya fell to the Burmese, and King Taksin established his capital in Bangkok. His successor, Rama I, was the first ruler of the Chakri Dynasty, and he moved the capital to the east banks of the river and erected the City Pillar in 1782, which is when the capital was established at its present site.

The city has seen a lot of development under the rulers of the Chakri Dynasty. In 1932, the country established a constitutional monarchy, after abolishing the absolute monarchy. The king, however, remains a popular and respected figure. The rulers of the dynasty till date have been Rama I (1737-1809), Rama II (1767-1824), Rama III (1788-1851), Rama IV (1804-1868), Rama V (1853-1910), Rama VI (1881-1925), Rama VII (1893-1941), Rama VIII (1925-1946), Rama IX (1927-2016) and Rama X (born in 1952).

Wat Phra Kaew, also called the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, is Thailand’s most sacred temple.  The famous emerald Buddha statue is 66 cm tall and probably dates back to the 14th century, though there are many legends about its origin, including those which claim the statue originated in India and Sri Lanka. It was placed in the Wat Phra Kaew in the 18th century during the reign of King Rama I. The king is the only person who is allowed to touch the statue. 
Wat Phra Kaew
Phra Siratana, Wat Phra Kaew
Royal Pantheon, Wat Phra Kaew
Giant Guardian, Wat Phra Kaew
Demonic Figure, Wat Phra Kaew
The Grand Palace lies adjacent to Wat Phra Kaew and has been the official residence of the King of Thailand since 1782. Currently the residence of the king is at Dusit Palace, but the Grand Palace is used for official functions. Rama I, the founded of the Chaki Dynasty, had the palace built in 1782. A lot of new buildings were constructed along the years. Borom Phiman Mansion was built in European style by Rama V and completed in 1903. In 1946, Rama VIII was mysteriously shot and killed here. The palace is currently used as the official guest house for visiting dignitaries. Chakri Maha Prasat Throne Hall was built by Rama V. Work commenced in 1876, and the structure is a blend of Thai and European architectural styles. Dusit Throne Hall was built to replace the old throne hall that was destroyed by lightning in 1789.
Borom Phiman Mansion, Grand Palace
Chakri Maha Prasat Hall, Grand Palace
Dusit Throne Hall, Grand Palace
Wat Pho, also known as the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, is one of Bangkok’s oldest temples.  Rama I had this temple built in 1788 on the site of an earlier temple. A part of his ashes are enshrined here. Rama III had the temple expanded. The temple has a traditional Thai massage centre that is very famous. The large Reclining Buddha at the temple is 46 meters long and 15 meters tall. The soles of the Reclining Buddha are inlaid with mother of pearl. 
Reclining Buddha, Wat Pho
Monks having their meal, Wat Pho
Courtyard, Wat Pho
Buddha under the Bodhi Tree, Wat Pho
Buddha with the serpent, Wat Pho
Guardian, Wat Pho
Wat Arun, or the Temple Of Dawn, is a temple on the west bank of Chao Phraya River. The temple gets its name from the Hindu god Aruna, who is symbolized by radiations of the rising sun. The temple dates back to the 17th century but the main spire was built in the 19th century under the reign of Rama II. The central tower is made from porcelain. 
Wat Arun
Detail, Wat Arun
The National Museum was opened in 1874 by King Rama V to showcase the collection of his father, Rama IV. The highlights include the Buddhaisawan Chapel, the Red House (a teak house), costumes, ceramics, carved ivory, weapons, musical instruments and precious stones.
Buddhaisawan Chapel, National Museum
Wat Traimit is famous because of its golden Buddha statue that weights 5.5 tons. The statue probably dates back to the 14th century. It was housed in a wat in Ayutthaya till the mid 19th century, after which it was shifted to Bangkok.
Wat Traimit
Golden Buddha, Wat Traimit
The City Pillar Shrine was completed in 1782 after the capital shifted from Ayutthaya. It lies close to the Temple of the Emerald Buddha.  The shrine has 2 pillars – the taller one was built by Rama I, and the smaller one by Rama V.
City Pillar Shrine
Golden Mount is a low hill that has a golden chedi. The chedi contains a relic of the Buddha. The complex went through major renovation during the reign of Rama I (1782-1809).
Golden Mount
Wat Suthat was commissioned by King Rama I but completed by King Rama III. The Buddha image inside was shifted here from Wat Mahathat in Sukhothai. The Giant Swing outside Wat Suthat is over 30 meter tall & is made out of wooden pillars. The Giant Swing was formerly used in religious ceremonies but that practice has been stopped for safety reasons.  
Main Shrine, Wat Suthat
Giant Swing, Wat Suthat
Erawan Shrine is a shrine dedicated to the four headed Hindu God of Creation, Lord Brahma. It is situated near the Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel. It was built in 1956. In 2006, the statue was rebuilt after a mentally ill man smashed it into pieces with a hammer. In 2015, a bomb exploded near the shrine. 20 people were killed and 125 were injured .
Erawan Shrine
The Maha Uma Devi Temple in Silom is a South Indian temple built in 1879 by a Tamilian immigrant.  The 6 meter tall gopuram at the temple’s entrance has a colourful façade full of sculptures of Hindu gods and goddesses.
Maha Uma Devi Temple
Female Figure, Maha Uma Devi Temple
The Royal Barges Museum has an impressive collection of the royal barges, in use even today for ceremonies.
Royal Barges Museum
The Assumption Cathedral was consecrated in 1919. The cathedral is the residence of the bishops of the Bangkok Diocese. The cathedral has two twin towers and some beautiful stain glass work inside.
Assumption Cathedral
The Nave, Assumption Cathedral
Jim Thompson’s House is a popular museum that houses the collection that the American silk merchant built up from across Thailand and South East Asia in the 1950's and 1960's. Jim Thompson disappeared in 1967 and despite a massive hunt, was never found. The house has Ming ware, Cambodian carvings, Burmese statues and a lot of other works of art.
Jim Thompson's House
Dusit Park has several royal palaces built between 1897 and 1901 by King Rama V. Dusit Palace within the park went on to become the primary residence of the King of Thailand. The current king resides here too. From 1782 till the time of Rama IX, all the rulers used to live in the Grand Palace. The Vimanmek Mansion at Dusit Palace was built in 1900 and is made entirely of teak. Dusit Zoo lies within Dusit Park.
Vimanmek Palace, Dusit Park
Royal Carriage Museum, Dusit Park
White Tiger at Dusit Zoo, Dusit Park
The Ananta Samakhone Throne Hall was a reception hall at the Dusit Palace but is now a museum, and hosts occasional state occasions. It was commissioned by King Rama V in 1906. The structure was built by Italian architects, and has a large 49.5 meter tall central dome. The interior has paintings depicting the Chakri Dynasty.
Ananta Samakhone Throne Hall
The Chulalongkorn Monument is dedicated to King Rama V (1853-1910). The equestrian statue of the king stands outside Ananta Samakhone Throne Hall.
Chulalongkorn Monument
The Ministry of Defence controls the Royal Thai Armed Forces. The grand building stands opposite the Temple of the Emerald Buddha.
Ministry of Defence
Lumbini Park is a large park with an artificial lake and wide open spaces. It was created by Rama VI in the 1920's, and Rama VI’s statue stands prominently in the park.
Sculpture of Rama VI, Lumbini Park
The Democracy Monument was commissioned in 1939 to commemorate the 1932 Siamese Revolution, after which a constitutional monarchy was established.
Democracy Monument
The Victory Monument was built in 1941 to commemorate the Thai victory in the Franco Thai war, after which Thailand got some territories in parts of Cambodia & Laos. In 1945, Thailand had to return the territories to France.
Victory Monument
Siam Paragon is a large shopping mall that opened in 2005. It has a food court, a multiplex, luxury designer stores, and a large aquarium called Underwater World. It lies right next to Siam Center, another favourite shopping centre.
Lobby, Siam Paragon
Siam Center
MBK Center is a large shopping mall in the heart of Bangkok which opened in 1985. It has over 2,000 shops, including the four story Tokyu Department Store. An elevated walkway connects it to Siam Discovery and Siam Paragon.
MBK Center
Bangkok has a Madame Tussaud’s Wax Museum situated inside Siam Discovery Center in the heart of the city. The wax museum has sculptures of many international celebrities.
Ronaldo, Madame Tussaud's
Beethoven, Madame Tussaud's
Michael Jackson, Madame Tussaud's
Clearly Bangkok is one of Asia's most dynamic and interesting cities, with a lot to offer to tourists. Yes, over crowding, heat and pollution are concerns, but the city has invested heavily in infrastructure, and has a world class transportation system, great hotels and shopping malls, and of course a huge number of places of historical importance.

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