My Visual Travel Experience: Kyoto

My father, Jagdish Rudraya Hiremath, lived in Japan for 3 years in the 1950's. Tokyo was his first posting after he joined the Indian Foreign Service (IFS) in 1954. Those days, IFS recruits used to be sent to Cambridge for a year to study the language of their choice and the brave man had opted for Japanese! So off he went to Cambridge to study Japanese - he because quite proficient at it! He enjoyed his stint in Japan. Years later, he told me that he found Kyoto to be particularly beautiful and there was an old Japanese saying that if there was any place that was Paradise on Earth, it was Kyoto!

I spent close to a week in Japan in January 2018. While I spent most of my time in Tokyo, I made it a point to visit Kyoto too. I stayed in a hotel called Daiwa Roynet Hotel Kyoto Hachijaguchi, which was near Kyoto Station. I paid around 12,000 Yen per night (it was around 110 Yen to 1 USD back then), which was quite reasonable considering it was a very comfortable hotel and was a welcome change from my Tokyo hotel, where the bathroom was so small that it wasn't even funny!

I got myself a 1 day Kyoto travel pass for 1,200 Yen and that allowed me unlimited travel by bus and metro. Kyoto Station lies right in the heart of the city, and also has the city's main bus terminal. Three buses - numbers 100, 101 and 102 - take visitors to most of the city's attractions. I took 100 to Ginkaku-ji, 102 to Kinkaku-ji and 101 back to Kyoto Station, stopping at various attractions along the way. It was extremely convenient, and Kyoto is small enough for me to have covered many of the city's main attractions in just a day, because that's all the time I had!

Kyoto has a population of about 1.4 million. It was the imperial capital for over a thousand years and this is visible in the many historical buildings that the city has to offer. Kyoto was founded in 794 AD as Heian-kyo, capital of peace and tranquility. Emperor Kanmu established it, away from the erstwhile capital, Nara. The city was badly damaged in the Onin War of 1467-77. In the late 16th century, the city was redeveloped by Toyotomi Hideyoshi. In 1864, there was arson during the Hamaguri Rebellion when people went against the Tokugawa Shogunate. In 1869, the emperor moved the capital of Japan to Tokyo. Today Kyoto has a large number of Japan’s national treasures. The UNSCO World Heritage Site Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto was thus designated in 1994 and contains 17 sites, including places like Kinkaku-ji, Ginkaku-ji and Toji Temple.

Kinkaku-ji, or the Golden Pavilion, was built by the third Ashikaga shogun, Yoshimitsu (1358-1408). The villa was built as his retirement house, and as per his wishes, became a temple after his death, with the Zen priest Soseki as its head. The structure is covered in gold leaf and topped by a bronze phoenix.  In 1950, the villa was destroyed in a case of arson, and what stands today is an exact replica of the original. Besides the pavilion, the complex also has a lake and a garden.

Kinkaku-ji

Lake at Kinkaku-ji

Ginkaku-ji, or the Silver Pavilion, was originally the mountain retreat of Shogun Yoshimasa (1436-1490), who wanted the pavilion to be done in silver, after the gold leaf of Kinkaku-ji, completed by his grandfather. This never happened due to the Onin War. The complex boasts of the pavilion, its astonishing garden and its tea ceremony.

Ginkaku-ji

Lake at Ginkaku-ji

The Philosopher’s Walk consists of a cherry tree lined canal, which starts close to Ginkaku-ji. The streets on both sides of the canal are lined with shops and restaurants. The area got its name after Kyoto University Philosophy Professor, Nishida Kitaro (1870-1945), who used to walk there daily. 

The Philosopher's Walk

Shrine at The Philosopher's Walk

Honen-in is a temple along the Philosopher’s Walk. It is a Jodo sect temple with a rustic look and a thatched gate.

Thatched Gate of Honen-in

Standing Buddha at Honen-in

The origins of Toji Temple date back to when Kukai founded the city of Kyoto in the year 794 AD.  It was the main headquarters of Shingon Buddhism. The five story Pagoda in the temple comples is 55 meters tall and is Japan’s tallest wooden Pagoda. On the 21st of every month, Kukai’s death is commemorated through a flea market in the temple’s premises.

Pagoda at Toji Temple

Flea Market at Toji Temple

Nijo-jo is a castle created by Shogun Tokugawa Leyasu (1543-1616). The last Tokugawa Shogun resigned at Nijo-jo in 1867 in the presence of Emperor Meiji. The complex has a beautiful garden, with lakes and rock formations. The Karamon Gate has a Chinese style gabled roof and gold plated fixtures.

Ninomaru-goten Palace, Nijo-jo

Honmaru Garden, Nijo-jo

Lake at Ninomaru Garden, Nijo-jo

Ninomaru Garden, Nijo-jo

Seiryu-en Garden, Nijo-jo

Nishi Hongan-ji Temple is a centre for the Jodo Shinshu sect of Buddhism. It has a large courtyard, national treasures and a scriptures repository. The temple dates back to 1591. The temple is famous for its wooden, intricately carved Karamon Gate.

Courtyard, Nishi Hongan-ji Temple

Scriptures, Nishi Hongan-ji Temple

Kyoto Tower stands next to Kyoto Station. It was completed in 1964 and has a height of 131 meters. It has an observation deck at 100 meters. It stands atop a 9 story building that houses a hotel. Kyoto Station has a very futuristic look to it. The structure was completed in 1997 and was the work of Hiroshi Hara, a Japanese architect who won a competition to design the station. The station has a high ceiling, it lets in a lot of light, and is full of shops and restaurants. On one of the station's top floors, one is completely spoiled for choice when it comes to food, as there is restaurant after restaurant, serving largely Japanese cuisines.

Kyoto Tower

View of Nishi Hongan-ji Temple from Tokyo Tower

Rice Bowl with Chicken and Egg at Kyoto Koto Koto,
Kyoto Station

To say I was impressed by my time in Kyoto would be an understatement. For me, the highlights were the beautiful architecture, the stunning gardens, the convenient public transport system, the friendly people (who went out of their way to help even though they didn't know English) and the many great food options. What my father had once told me about Kyoto was oh so true. I would have loved to have chatted with him about Kyoto, told him about my experiences and shared my photographs, but alas I went there too late, almost 5 years after he had passed away!

My Visual Travel Experience: Amritsar

Amritsar is to India's Sikh population what the Vatican is to Christianity. People come from all over India and from abroad to visit the city's Golden Temple. I got a chance to visit Amritsar on work on a couple of occasions in the early 2000's, and then my wife Kamalini and I went and spent 2 days there in 2013, soaking in the city's spiritual aura, walking through its interesting streets, going up to the Pakistan border and gorging on the great food that the city is famous for.

Amritsar lies in the state of Punjab and has a population of over 1.1 million. As per Hindu mythology, Amritsar's Bhagwan Valmiki Tirath Sthal is believed to be the ashram of Maharishi Valmiki, the writer of the Ramayana. The city is said to have been founded by Guru Ram Das, the fourth Sikh Guru, soon after his coronation in 1574.

The Golden Temple was built between 1589 and 1601. The structure was destroyed by an Afghan invader, and rebuilt by Maharaja Ranjit Singh. The Maharaja donated 100 kg of gold to cover the top of the temple, which was previously called the Hari Mandir. The temple lies in the midst of the Amrit Sarovar. The complex is accessed through a gateway with a clock-tower. It also has the Akal Takht (where the governing body of Sikhs is headquartered, and where the holy book of the Sikhs, the Guru Granth Sahib, is housed every night), the Guru Ka Langar (where free food is distributed every day and can feed 1,000 people) and the Central Sikh Museum.  The Golden Temple was again damaged extensively in 1984, during Operation Bluestar. Fighting for a separate Sikh homeland, Brindanwale and his team made the Golden Temple their base. The Indian Prime Minister, Indira Gandhi, sent forces in to remove Brindanwale from the premises. Brindanwale was killed. The Prime Minister’s action eventually led to her assassination later that same year by her own Sikh bodyguards.

Golden Temple

Akal Takht, Golden Temple Complex

Clock Tower, Golden Temple Complex

A Sikh Priest at the Akal Takht, Golden Temple Complex

The Wagah Border, also called the Attari Border, lies 30 km from Amritsar and 20 km from the Pakistani city of Lahore. It is a major tourist spot and evokes a lot of patriotic fervour. Trade between the two nations also takes place through the Wagah Border, though through a separate gate.  Huge crowds gather daily on both sides to see the ceremonial flag lowering. It’s a festive atmosphere, with people dancing and waving flags, and patriotic music blaring from loud-speakers. On the Indian side, there is a portrait of Mahatma Gandhi and on the corresponding Pakistani side, there is a portrait of Mohammad Ali Jinnah. 

Wagah Border

Indian Soldiers, Wagah Border

Indian visitors waving flags, Wagah Border

Jallianwala Bagh lies very close to the Golden Temple. It is the spot where close to 400 Indians were killed in 1919 when they had gathered to protest peacefully against the unjust Rowlatt Act. The firing was under the orders of General Reginald Dyer. This was the worst atrocity committed by the British during their rule in India, and this hastened the end of their rule as it turned the public sentiment against them completely.

Martyrs' Well, Jallianwala Bagh

Memorial, Jallianwala Bagh

Figure of a British Officer Shooting, Jallianwala Bagh

The Durgiana Temple dates back to 1908 and is designed along the lines of the Golden Temple. The main temple is accessed by a pathway, and it lies in the middle of a lake. The temple was constructed by Harsai Mal Kapoor. The complex also has other smaller temples, including a Hanuman temple.

Durgiana Temple

Hanuman Statue, Durgiana Temple

The Mata Lal Devi Temple was built in honour of the 20th century female saint. The interior of the temple has numerous deities, and a meandering path that takes visitors past all the deities, and even through ankle-deep water and low tunnels. The temple was inspired by Katra’s famous Vaishno Devi Temple.

Sculpture of Mata Lal Devi,
Mata Lal Devi Mandir

Nandi, Mata Lal Devi Mandir

Radha Krishna, Mata Lal Devi Mandir

Vaishno Devi, Mata Lal Devi Mandir

The Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama is a museum devoted to the life of Maharaja Ranjit Singh (1780 – 1839). The Maharaja lost one eye early in his life due to smallpox. In 1799, Ranjit Singh captured Lahore and made it his capital. He went on to create the Sikh empire through his various campaigns. The Maharaja is credited with renovating the Golden Temple and giving it its golden roof. The museum is housed inside a large garden. The museum has sculptures and paintings of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. On the top floor, there’s also a grand circular diorama that has sculpture groupings depicting various scenes from the Maharaja’s life – the most impressive grouping is that of the Maharaja’s Grand Durbar, which is modeled after a famous painting showing the Maharaja and his courtiers.

The Grand Durbar of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, 
Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama

Modernization of the Army, 
Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama

Maharaja Ranjit Singh as a Child, 
Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama

Khalsa College is a well known college in Amritsar, which is housed in a beautiful building, in the midst of sprawling lawns.

Khalsa College

Amritsar is famous for its dhabas, the inexpensive local eateries. All India Famous Amritsari Kulchas is well known for its kulchas, which are served with oodles of butter. Surjit’s is a place reputed for its non vegetarian food. Inside the restaurant, one can see a newspaper article on Surjit’s depicting the restaurant's popularity, as well as an autographed cricket bat signed by cricket star Kapil Dev. The city is lined with similar eateries, and if you're one for tandoori chicken or butter chicken or rich North Indian food, then Amritsar is just the place for you!

My Visual Travel Experience: Adelaide

I spent 3 days in Adelaide in 2011 with my wife Kamalini. It was an enjoyable visit. Over my month's stay in Australia, I was to see several of Australia's wildlife parks, but my first one was in Adelaide - Cleland National Park - and I was absolutely impressed because nowhere else in the world had I visited a wildlife park where I had got the opportunity to touch and feed the animals.

Adelaide is the capital of South Australia and has a population of approximately 1.7 million. The region was inhabited by Aborigines for more than 10,000 years. In 1836, the area was made a British colony by Governor John Hindmarsh. Colonel William Light planned the city, and the funding was done largely through wealth from agriculture and mining. In the mid 20th century, Adelaide became a manufacturing hub, largely for motor vehicles and household appliances. Adelaide is a very well planned city with a grid-like pattern. The city centre lies between North Terrace and the river Torrens. 

St Peter’s Cathedral is an Anglican church with neo Gothic twin spires. Construction of the cathedral began in the later part of the 18th century, and it was consecrated in 1904. The church’s interior is 62 meters long, and the spires rise 51 meters from the ground.

St Peter's Cathedral

High Altar, St Peter's Cathedral

Crucifixion Statue, St Peter's Cathedral

Stain Glass Windows, St Peter's Cathedral

The Art Gallery Of South Australia has an impressive collection of paintings and sculptures from Australia and around the world. Aboriginal art is also featured. There are impressive works from around Asia. 

Art Gallery of South Australia

Brueghel's Tax Collector's Office,
Art Gallery of South Australia

Carpeaux's The Negress,
Art Gallery of South Australia

Milpurrurru's Flying Foxes,
Art Gallery of South Australia

Tribe's Caprice,
Art Gallery of South Australia

Ward's Portrait of Dash,
Art Gallery of South Australia

The South Australian Museum has an impressive collection of Aboriginal artifacts, and stuffed animals. There are impressive exhibits on cultures from the Pacific islands. The museum was founded way back in 1856.

African Mammals, South Australian Museum

Fox, South Australian Museum

Pacific Islands House, South Australian Museum

Cleland National Park lies a short distance outside the city. It is a wonderful park for animal lovers, and has animals like kangaroos, emus, dingoes and koalas, as well as several types of water-birds. Visitors can touch and feed kangaroos, wallabies and emus. They can also hold koalas and get their pictures professionally taken with them. The day spent in Cleland National Park was really a high point of our visit!

Dingo, Cleland National Park

Emu, Cleland National Park

Grey Kangaroo, Cleland National Park

Koala, Cleland National Park

The Botanic Gardens are spread over an area of 50 acres and are a popular attraction of  the city. They date back to 1855. They lie in the north eastern part of the city. The gardens have the Bicentennial Conservatory, which houses a beautiful tropical rainforest.

Fountain, Botanic Gardens

Palm House, Botanic Gardens

Wollemi Palm, Botanic Gardens

Situated close the Botanic Gardens, Adelaide Zoo is an impressive zoo with a fine collection of animals from Australia and around the world. The biggest draw is the collection of giant pandas. 

Giant Panda, Adelaide Zoo

Giraffe, Adelaide Zoo

Victoria Square lies in the heart of the city, in the middle of expansive lawns. The centre of the square has a large statue of Queen Victoria of England.

Victoria Square

The War Memorial dedicated to the soldiers of South Australia who died in the world wars.

War Memorial

The Statue of Sir Donald Bradman, the legendary cricketer, lies next to the Adelaide Oval.

Statue of Sir Donald Bradman

Rundle Mall is a pedestrian street that has Adelaide’s main shopping area, with department stores, shops and restaurants. One of the highlights is Adelaide Arcade which was built in 1880 and has an impressive central dome. The street also has bronze sculptures of a group of fictitious legendary pigs, including Truffles.

Adelaide Arcade, Rundle Mall

Truffles, Rundle Mall

The Parliament House has 10 marble Corinthian columns at the front. It dates back to 1939 and took 50 years to complete!

Parliament House

Adelaide University is one of Australia’s premier educational institutes. It has a beautiful campus along North Terrace, with some impressive structures. The University's Bonython Hall is used for graduation ceremonies, examinations and lectures. The hall was completed in 1936. The hall was built with a sloping floor because the Bonython family was apparently conservative and did not want the hall to be used for dances!

Bonython Hall, Adelaide University

Elder Hall, Adelaide University

During my month in Australia in 2011, I covered all the major cities - Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Adelaide, Perth and Canberra - in addition to several other places. For me personally, Sydney was a favourite, but all the big cities were very interesting, with their churches, memorials, museums, urban parks and wildlife parks. Adelaide was no exception, and I enjoyed exploring the city. My wife's childhood friend, Rakhee, lives in Adelaide too, and she enjoyed meeting up with her after a long gap. All in all, an enjoyable few days!