My Visual Travel Experience: Amritsar

Amritsar is to India's Sikh population what the Vatican is to Christianity. People come from all over India and from abroad to visit the city's Golden Temple. I got a chance to visit Amritsar on work on a couple of occasions in the early 2000's, and then my wife Kamalini and I went and spent 2 days there in 2013, soaking in the city's spiritual aura, walking through its interesting streets, going up to the Pakistan border and gorging on the great food that the city is famous for.

Amritsar lies in the state of Punjab and has a population of over 1.1 million. As per Hindu mythology, Amritsar's Bhagwan Valmiki Tirath Sthal is believed to be the ashram of Maharishi Valmiki, the writer of the Ramayana. The city is said to have been founded by Guru Ram Das, the fourth Sikh Guru, soon after his coronation in 1574.

The Golden Temple was built between 1589 and 1601. The structure was destroyed by an Afghan invader, and rebuilt by Maharaja Ranjit Singh. The Maharaja donated 100 kg of gold to cover the top of the temple, which was previously called the Hari Mandir. The temple lies in the midst of the Amrit Sarovar. The complex is accessed through a gateway with a clock-tower. It also has the Akal Takht (where the governing body of Sikhs is headquartered, and where the holy book of the Sikhs, the Guru Granth Sahib, is housed every night), the Guru Ka Langar (where free food is distributed every day and can feed 1,000 people) and the Central Sikh Museum.  The Golden Temple was again damaged extensively in 1984, during Operation Bluestar. Fighting for a separate Sikh homeland, Brindanwale and his team made the Golden Temple their base. The Indian Prime Minister, Indira Gandhi, sent forces in to remove Brindanwale from the premises. Brindanwale was killed. The Prime Minister’s action eventually led to her assassination later that same year by her own Sikh bodyguards.

Golden Temple

Akal Takht, Golden Temple Complex

Clock Tower, Golden Temple Complex

A Sikh Priest at the Akal Takht, Golden Temple Complex

The Wagah Border, also called the Attari Border, lies 30 km from Amritsar and 20 km from the Pakistani city of Lahore. It is a major tourist spot and evokes a lot of patriotic fervour. Trade between the two nations also takes place through the Wagah Border, though through a separate gate.  Huge crowds gather daily on both sides to see the ceremonial flag lowering. It’s a festive atmosphere, with people dancing and waving flags, and patriotic music blaring from loud-speakers. On the Indian side, there is a portrait of Mahatma Gandhi and on the corresponding Pakistani side, there is a portrait of Mohammad Ali Jinnah. 

Wagah Border

Indian Soldiers, Wagah Border

Indian visitors waving flags, Wagah Border

Jallianwala Bagh lies very close to the Golden Temple. It is the spot where close to 400 Indians were killed in 1919 when they had gathered to protest peacefully against the unjust Rowlatt Act. The firing was under the orders of General Reginald Dyer. This was the worst atrocity committed by the British during their rule in India, and this hastened the end of their rule as it turned the public sentiment against them completely.

Martyrs' Well, Jallianwala Bagh

Memorial, Jallianwala Bagh

Figure of a British Officer Shooting, Jallianwala Bagh

The Durgiana Temple dates back to 1908 and is designed along the lines of the Golden Temple. The main temple is accessed by a pathway, and it lies in the middle of a lake. The temple was constructed by Harsai Mal Kapoor. The complex also has other smaller temples, including a Hanuman temple.

Durgiana Temple

Hanuman Statue, Durgiana Temple

The Mata Lal Devi Temple was built in honour of the 20th century female saint. The interior of the temple has numerous deities, and a meandering path that takes visitors past all the deities, and even through ankle-deep water and low tunnels. The temple was inspired by Katra’s famous Vaishno Devi Temple.

Sculpture of Mata Lal Devi,
Mata Lal Devi Mandir

Nandi, Mata Lal Devi Mandir

Radha Krishna, Mata Lal Devi Mandir

Vaishno Devi, Mata Lal Devi Mandir

The Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama is a museum devoted to the life of Maharaja Ranjit Singh (1780 – 1839). The Maharaja lost one eye early in his life due to smallpox. In 1799, Ranjit Singh captured Lahore and made it his capital. He went on to create the Sikh empire through his various campaigns. The Maharaja is credited with renovating the Golden Temple and giving it its golden roof. The museum is housed inside a large garden. The museum has sculptures and paintings of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. On the top floor, there’s also a grand circular diorama that has sculpture groupings depicting various scenes from the Maharaja’s life – the most impressive grouping is that of the Maharaja’s Grand Durbar, which is modeled after a famous painting showing the Maharaja and his courtiers.

The Grand Durbar of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, 
Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama

Modernization of the Army, 
Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama

Maharaja Ranjit Singh as a Child, 
Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama

Khalsa College is a well known college in Amritsar, which is housed in a beautiful building, in the midst of sprawling lawns.

Khalsa College

Amritsar is famous for its dhabas, the inexpensive local eateries. All India Famous Amritsari Kulchas is well known for its kulchas, which are served with oodles of butter. Surjit’s is a place reputed for its non vegetarian food. Inside the restaurant, one can see a newspaper article on Surjit’s depicting the restaurant's popularity, as well as an autographed cricket bat signed by cricket star Kapil Dev. The city is lined with similar eateries, and if you're one for tandoori chicken or butter chicken or rich North Indian food, then Amritsar is just the place for you!