My Visual Travel Experience: Frankfurt

Frankfurt is a city that most travelers tend to just pass through because its airport is one of the world's busiest, and people don't end up visiting the city because they are at the airport to just catch a connecting flight. Back in 2007, I decided to spend a day in the city and explore it. I discovered that it's a charming city, with beautiful city squares, magnificent churches and world class museums. I was pleasantly surprised and was very happy with my decision to spend a full day exploring what all it had to offer.

Frankfurt has a population of over 735,000, and is Germany’s 5th most populated city after Berlin, Hamburg, Munich and Cologne. It is the capital of the state of Hesse. It lies along the river Main and the city is also known as Frankfurt Am Main.

Frankfurt was one of the main cities of the Holy Roman Empire. From 1562 onwards, German kings were crowned in Frankfurt’s Dom, a practice started by Maximilian II. After the fall of the Holy Roman Empire in 1805, Frankfurt became a part of the principality of Afschaffenburg. After Napoleon’s defeat in 1815, Frankfurt became a fully sovereign city state. It became a part of the German Confederation, and remained so till the Austro Prussian War in 1866, when it became a part of the Kingdom of Prussia. Since 1945, it has been a part of the state of Hesse.

In 1945, Frankfurt was severely damaged in World War II, and was painstakingly restored. In the post war years, the city has gone on to become a powerful financial centre. It also has one of the world’s largest airports. The city’s infrastructure is world class, and it has a very efficient underground transportation system.

The Romer is a building in the heart of the old city. It has served as the City Hall since the 15th century. The Romer family sold the building to the city council for its use as the City Hall in 1405, and hence the name. In 1944, the Romer with its gabled roofs was destroyed in World War II and had to be rebuilt.

Romer (Eastern Side)

Romer (Western Side)

Frankfurter Dom, also known as Kaiserkirche Sankt Bartholomaus, was completed in 1550. It has a 95 meter tall spire. The church was destroyed in a fire in 1867 and then again in World War II, but was restored each time. During my visit, there was extensive renovation going on, and that hindered my ability to photograph the church's grand exterior.

Crucifixion Panel, Dom

Goethehaus was the house in which the famous writer was born in 1749. He lived here till 1765, when he moved to university in Leipzig. The house was with the family till 1795. It is now a museum. It was destroyed in the war and was restored in 1951.

Goethehaus

Interior, Goethehaus

The Goethe Statue is a prominent local landmark. 

Goethe Statue

The Schiller Statue is also a prominent local landmark. The famous German poet lived from 1759 to 1805.

Schiller Statue

Frankfurt is a major financial hub and has several skyscrapers, not very characteristic of most European cities. It is jokingly referred to as Mainhattan because of its skyscrapers. The Main Turm is a 200 meter tall building named after the Main River that runs through Frankfurt. With the antenna, its height is 240 meters. The building was completed in 1999. It has the offices of various large organizations and it also has an observation deck. The Commerzbank Turm stands at a height of 259 meters. The twin Deutsche Bank Towers stand at a height of 155 meters.

Main Turm and Commerzbank Turm

Deutsche Bank Towers

The Boerse is the Stock Exchange. It is the 10th largest stock exchange in the world. Outside the building, there is a statue of a Bull and a Bear. The Stock Exchange has been functioning here since 1879.

Bull and Bear Statue outside the Boerse

Alte Oper was completed in 1880 and opened with much fanfare in the presence of Kaiser Wilhelm I. It is a concert house and former opera house. It was destroyed in 1944 in World War II. It reopened only in 1981.

Alte Oper

Hauptwache is a central square. Its former guard house is now a popular café.

Hauptwache

Stadel Museum is an art gallery which was founded in 1817. Its collection has art from the 14th century to the 21st century. Featured artists include Bosch (Ecce Homo), Botticelli (Portrait of a Young Woman), Rembrandt (The Blinding of Samson), Vermeer (The Geographer) and Degas (Musicians at the Orchestra).

Lieberman's Samson and Delilah, Stadel Museum

Alte Nikolaikirche lies next to Romer in the heart of the city. The current Lutheran church dates back to the 15th century.

Alte Nikolaikirche

Leonardskirche is a Gothic hall church from the 15th century.

Leonardskirche

So clearly Frankfurt is so much more than just a commercial city with a large airport. I would certainly recommend a day or two to explore the city's gems, prominent among which would be the beautiful Romer, the impressive Dom, the historic Goethehaus and the magnificent Stadel Museum!

An Ideal Boss

A boss should be someone who gives us guidance, someone who shares his or her experiences, someone who helps us meet our organisation's objectives, someone who has our best interest in mind in addition to the organisation's, someone with whom there is an element of formality and yet a high degree of trust and a certain element of friendship, someone who effectively knows how to get work done through us without making us feel humiliated or less than his or her equal, someone who has human qualities.

A boss should not be this distant, autocratic figure who controls our professional destiny and personal life, someone who doesn't give us respect, someone who feels he has this power over us that can be used and misused at will, someone who hires and fires based on his or her whims and fancies, someone who treats us like machines instead of like human beings.

Many of us have been both subordinates and bosses. Many of us know how we want our bosses to treat us, but we don't always apply the same yardsticks to our subordinates. At the end of the day, we can't choose our bosses, and though I have had some good bosses in my career, years ago I took the conscious decision to not have a boss, and live life on my own terms. I became an entrepreneur with a work from home model. I chose a field that was of interest to me, which wasn't very remunerative but was satisfying nevertheless. It hasn't been easy, and I've consciously earned a lot less than I would have in an organisation, but I have no real regrets. I guess I'm too sensitive to brush aside something that a boss says and does, when I'm not on the same level playing field as him or her. I've had freedom, something a lot of us long for but compromise on, I've had the opportunity to give importance to other, very important aspects of my life that would have got neglected. I've been able to spend time with people who matter, I've been able to pursue my interests, and I've had my venture which hasn't been a runaway success for a multitude of reasons but has still been an important anchor in my life.

Perhaps I will join an organisation again someday, because it's not easy to live on just love and fresh air, however fulfilling they may be! There are responsibilities that cannot be neglected. But it has been good living life on my terms, and if and when I do have a boss again, I do hope it's someone who fits into my concept of what an ideal boss should be!

My Visual Travel Experience: Ayutthaya

My wife, my one year old son, my wife's family, and I spent around 10 days in Thailand in 2015. We largely spent time in Bangkok and Phuket, but we also managed to spend a day in the town of Ayutthaya, a historical town just an hour outside Bangkok. We stayed in a lovely hotel called Ban Thai House, with its traditional Thai architecture.

The city of Ayutthaya was founded by King Ramathibodi I in 1350. It was the capital of the country till the Burmese attacked and destroyed it in 1767. In 1969, a concerted effort was made to renovate the ruins, and it was declared a historical park in 1976, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991. During its 4 centuries as the country’s capital, Ayutthaya had 35 rulers.

Today, the town of Ayutthaya has a population of about 55,000. Many of the old temples are in ruins, but they speak of the town’s glorious past. At the peak of its glory in the early 18th century, Ayutthaya supposedly had a population of almost 1,000,000, which made it one of the world’s biggest cities of the time.

Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon is a monastery constructed by King U-Thong for monks. A chedi was constructed later by King Naresuan  to commemorate his victory over the king of Burma. The wat is one of Ayutthaya’s best maintained temples, and is striking because of the long row of meditating Buddha statues along the walls.

Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon

Main Shrine, Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon

Row of Buddha Statues, Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon

Buddha Statue,
Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon

Reclining Buddha, Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon

Wat Mahathat used to be one of Ayutthaya’s most important temples. It was built by King Borom Rachathirat between 1370 and 1388. It served as the royal temple for centuries. Today most of the temple lies in ruins.

Wat Mahathat

Buddha Head in a Banyan Tree, Wat Mahathat

Buddha Statue,
Wat Mahathat

Buddha Statue among the ruins, Wat Mahathat

Buddha Head, Wat Mahathat

Wat Chai Watthanaram is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The temple was constructed in 1630 by King Prasat Thong, and was designed in Khmer style. The central prang is 35 meters tall, and there are four smaller prangs. The central platform is surrounded by eight chedi shaped chapels. Along the walls, there are many sitting Buddha statues.  

Wat Chai Watthanaram

Main Shrine,
Wat Chai Watthanaram

Wat Phra Si Sanphet was Ayutthaya’s grandest temple till the Burmese invasion in 1767. In 1350, U-Thong (later known as King Ramathibodi I) built a royal palace at this venue. Subsequently, Ayutthaya was established as the capital of his kingdom. In 1492, two chedis were built, where the ashes of the father and brother of King Ramathibodi II were buried. In 1592, a third chedi was built.

Wat Phra Si Sanphet

Central Chedi,
Wat Phra Si Sanphet

Wat Phra Si Sanphet

Wihan Phra Mongkhon Bophit has a massive bronze Buddha statue, which is 9.5 meters wide and 12.5 meters high, without the base The statue dates back to the 16th century AD. In 1767, the wihan was destroyed by Burmese invaders and the statue was badly damaged.  In 1956, the statue was repaired and the wihan was rebuilt.

Wat Phra Mongkhon Bophit

Wat Lokaya Sutharam is famous for its 42 meter long Reclining Buddha. The statue is usually wrapped in bright orange cloth, and has an altar in front where one can make offerings.

Wat Lokaya Sutharam

Besides its many temples, Ayutthaya also has other attractions for visitors. It has a bustling waterside floating market, ideal for souvenir shoppers. It also has an elephant centre, where one can see elephants and go on rides sitting on them.

Floating Market

Elephant Centre

Ban Thai House

In a place like Ayutthaya, one needs to prioritise and see the main temples. If one were to attempt seeing all the temples, one would go dizzy, given the sheer numbers. We managed to pack in all the main temples, and it was a very satisfying visit. Given the relatively small size of the town, it was also a welcome break from the crowded hustle and bustle of Bangkok life!

My Visual Travel Experience: Chennai

I've had the chance of spending a fair amount of time in Chennai. In 1983, as a 10 year old, we visited what was then Madras, and I absentmindedly jumped into a crocodile pit at the Crocodile Bank - I managed to get out in the nick of time before I became a meal for the hungry creatures! From 1997 to 1999, I spent 2 years in Chennai during my sales days at my first job. Subsequently, I visited a few times on work, and then in April 2019, I spent just a day there with my wife and four year old son to attend a very dear friend's wedding, en route to a brief holiday in Pondicherry.

Chennai is the capital and largest city of the southern Indian state of Tamil Nadu. The city has a population of 4.6 million, though Greater Chennai has 8.6 million inhabitants (as per the 2011 census). It lies along the Bay of Bengal.

From the 1st century to the 12th century, the area was ruled by the Cholas. The Portugese arrived in 1522 and built a port called Sao Tome, after St Thomas, one of the twelve apostles of Christ, who is said to have preached in the region between 52 AD and 70 AD. In 1612, the Dutch came. In 1639, the British East India Company met the Vijayanagar emperor and got permission to built a factory and warehouse for their trading activities. In 1640, the British built Fort George, which became the centre of the colonial city. In 1746, Madras was captured by the French. The British regained control in 1749. By the 18th century, the British had taken control over most of southern India, and established the Madras Presidency, with Madras as its capital.

India got its independence from the British in 1947, and Madras became the capital of Madras State, which was renamed Tamil Nadu in 1969. In 1965, the city saw violent agitations against the imposition of Hindi as the official language, and the agitations prevented Hindi from becoming the sole official language not just in Tamil Nadu but in all of India. In 1996, the city’s name was officially changed from Madras to Chennai. The 2004 tsunami resulted in the deaths of over 200 people in Chennai and caused extensive damage to the coastline. The 2015 floods killed over 200 people in the city.

Chennai is known for its hot and humid tropical climate. It is a major centre for music, art and culture. It is also a tourism hub (with its temples, churches, beaches and museums) and a gateway to tourist attractions in South India. The city has a major cinema industry, popularly known as Kollywood. Several famous film personalities, including C N Annadurai, M G Ramachandran, M Karunanidhi and J Jayalalitha have gone on to become well known politicians. The city is known for its industry, including a significant percentage of the country’s automobile industry. Chennai has very good infrastructure catering to its residents and visitors, in the form of air, train and metro transportation, and some world class hotels.  

Santhome Church is a church built in the 16th century by the Portugese over the tomb of St Thomas, one of the twelve apostles of Christ.  In 1893, it was rebuilt by the British, and that’s the structure that stands today. Besides Santhome Church, only two more churches across the world are built over the tombs of apostles – St Peter’s Basilica at the Vatican, and Santiago de Compostela Cathedral in Spain. The church has a relic in the form of a bone of St Thomas. Santhome Church is white in colour, and the spire stands at a height of 47 meters. It lies just off Chennai’s Marina Beach.

Santhome Church

High Altar, Santhome Church

The Nave, Santhome Church

Painting of the Crowning of the Virgin, Santhome Church

Statue of Pope John Paul II, Santhome Church

Our Lady of Mylapore, Santhome Church

St Andrew’s Church was consecrated in 1821 and was built for the Scottish community in Chennai. It was modeled along the lines of St Martin in the Fields in London’s Trafalgar Square. The church has a circular portion that has a diameter of 24 meters. Inside, the dome is painted in blue, and has golden stars. The dome is supported by 16 pillars. St Andrew’s Church is also well known for its stain glass windows, and its beautiful white marble memorials.

St Andrew's Church

Interior of Dome, St Andrew's Church

Memorial Slab, St Andrew's Church

Kapaleeshwarar Temple was originally built in the 7th century but was demolished by the Portugese in the 16th century. The present structure dates back to the 16th century. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and his consort, Parvati. According to legend, Lord Brahma did not show Shiva the respect he was due and in an act of anger, Shiva plucked one of the four heads of Brahma. Brahma then installed a lingam to please Shiva, and the lingam was supposedly at the site of the original temple. The temple has a 40 meter high gopuram, full of colourful sculptures of figured from Hindu mythology.

Kapaleeshwarar Temple

Valluvar Kottam is a monument built in 1976, dedicated to the Tamil poet Thiru Valluvar. The monument has a large chariot, that stands at a height of 39 meters. Inside the chariot, there is a life size statue of Valluvar. The complex also consists of a decorative arch at the entrance, and an auditorium that can accommodate 3,500 people.

Valluvar Kottam

Chariot, Valluvar Kottam

Base of Chariot, Valluvar Kottam

Elephant at Base of Chariot, Valluvar Kottam

Chennai Central is the main railway terminus of Chennai. The building is a prominent landmark. The gothic structure was built in 1873, and has a central clock tower.

Chennai Central

Ripon Building is a white neo classical building completed in 1913. It houses the Chennai Municipal Corporation. It is named after Lord Ripon, Governor General of British India. The building has a 43 meter high clock tower.

Ripon Building

The Government Museum complex is famous for its Chola bronze sculptures. The National Art Gallery is a part of it and was built in 1906 and is made from red stone in Indo Saracenic style. The gallery’s works include paintings from Thanjavur, sandalwood sculptures, Mughal paintings, miniature paintings, paintings by Raja Ravi Varma and portraits of British officers. The Children’s Museum is also a part of the Government Museum.

National Art Gallery

Madras High Court is the High Court of the state of Tamil Nadu. It was established in 1862. The building, built in the Indo Saracenic architectural style, was completed in 1892.

Madras High Court

Marina Beach is a 6 km long urban beach, one of the longest in the world. It is a sandy beach, that has an average width of 300 meters. Swimming is prohibited for safety reasons. It is a popular hang out place, and is full of numerous stalls selling largely food items and beverages.  Triumph of Labour  Statue on Marina Beach is a statue built by Debi Prasad Roy Chowdhury in 1959. It shows four men trying to move a rock, symbolizing the hard work of the labour class. The annual May Day celebrations take place next to the statue. Anna Samadhi on Marina Beach a memorial to C N Annadurai, the DMK leader and Chief Minster of Tamil Nadu, who died in 1969. MGR Samadhi was built along Marina Beach in 1998 as a memorial to AIADMK leader and Tamil Nadu Chief Minister, M G Ramachandran. In 2016, MGR’s protégé, J Jayalalitha (who was also the AIADMK leader and Chief Minister of Tamil Nadu), was buried at the site.

Stalls, Marina Beach

Triumph of Labour Statue, Marina Beach

Anna Samadhi, Marina Beach

MGR Samadhi, Marina Beach

Shri Ayappan Guruvayurappan Temple is a temple dedicated to Lord Ayappa and was established in the early 1970’s.

Shri Ayappan Guruvayurappan Temple

Taj Fisherman’s Cove Resort and Spa is a luxury hotel along East Coast Road, around 40 km from Chennai and 20 km from Mahabalipuram.  The hotel was built in 1974, on the ramparts of an old fort constructed by the Dutch in the 18th century.  Its restaurants include the outdoor beach side Bay View, and the multi cuisine Sea Gull. It also has an outdoor pool with a bar attached to it. Chennai also has a large number of other luxury hotels, including Taj Coromandel Hotel (with its famous Southern Spice restaurant), Taj Connemara Hotel and ITC Grand Chola.

Taj Fisherman's Cove Resort and Spa

Swimming Pool and Bar, Taj Fisherman's Cove Resort and Spa

Swimming Pool, Taj Fisherman's Cove Resort and Spa

Honey Glazed Pork at Sea Gull, Taj Fisherman's Cove Resort and Spa

Bay View, Taj Fisherman's Cove Resort and Spa

Chennai is well known for its wide range of restaurants. Hotel Saravana Bhawan is a very popular chain of South Indian vegetarian restaurants, with numerous outlets in and around Chennai, and also in other parts of India and internationally. Ponnusamy Hotel is a popular chain of restaurants serving Chettinad food. Annalakshmi also serves South Indian vegetarian fare, but in a very artistic, museum like setting. From the luxury hotels, Taj Coromandel's Southern Spice (with its South Indian coastal food), ITC Grand Chola's Peshawari (with its North West Frontier Province cuisine) and Taj Fisherman's Cove Resort and Spa's Sea Gull and Bay Watch are very popular.

Vada with Sambar and Chutney, Hotel Saravana Bhawan

Chicken 65 and Parotha, Ponnusamy Restaurant

As one leaves Chennai and travels south along East Coast Road, one comes across several well known attractions along the picturesque drive. These include Dakshin Chitra Museum, VGP Golden Beach, MGM Dizzee World, Taj Fisherman's Cove Resort and Spa, Crocodile Bank, and then Mahabalipuram. They all serve as nice places to get away from the hustle and bustle of the metropolis.

Mahabalipuram, or Mamallapuram, is a town of 15,000 people, around 60 km south of Chennai in Tamil Nadu’s Kanchipuram district. It lies along the Bay of Bengal, and is along the picturesque East Coast Road from Chennai. Mahabalipuram was a major port town of the Pallava Kingdom in the 7th century AD. It is famous for its rock temples and monuments, which together are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Descent of the Ganges is a rock relief carved on two monolithic boulders. It has a length of 29 meters and a height of 13 meters. The relief shows the descent of the river Ganga to earth. One interpretation is that it shows Arjuna’s penance, as he prays to Shiva to receive a powerful weapon before the epic Mahabharata battle. Another interpretation is that it shows Bhagiratha praying to bring down the River Ganga for the prosperity of people.

The Descent of the Ganges

The Shore Temple was built in the 8th century AD by the Pallava Dynasty. It was built using blocks of granite. It lies along the shores of the Bay of Bengal, and hence the name.

Shore Temple

Five Rathas or Panch Rathas are a series of rock cut monuments built in the 7th century. The five monuments look like rathas, or chariots, and hence the name. The rathas are named after the Pandavas, and are called the Dharmajaja Ratha, the Bheema Ratha, the Arjuna Ratha, the Nakul Sahadev Ratha, and the Draupadi Ratha. The complex also has a stone statue of an elephant, and one of Nandi the bull.

Dharmaraja Ratha, Five Rathas

Elephant, Five Rathas

Nandi, Five Rathas

Chennai certainly has a lot for visitors. If one is willing to brave it out and face the heat and the humidity, it's well worth a visit to take in the interesting culture, the amazing food and the beautiful architecture.