My Visual Travel Experience: Chennai

I've had the chance of spending a fair amount of time in Chennai. In 1983, as a 10 year old, we visited what was then Madras, and I absentmindedly jumped into a crocodile pit at the Crocodile Bank - I managed to get out in the nick of time before I became a meal for the hungry creatures! From 1997 to 1999, I spent 2 years in Chennai during my sales days at my first job. Subsequently, I visited a few times on work, and then in April 2019, I spent just a day there with my wife and four year old son to attend a very dear friend's wedding, en route to a brief holiday in Pondicherry.

Chennai is the capital and largest city of the southern Indian state of Tamil Nadu. The city has a population of 4.6 million, though Greater Chennai has 8.6 million inhabitants (as per the 2011 census). It lies along the Bay of Bengal.

From the 1st century to the 12th century, the area was ruled by the Cholas. The Portugese arrived in 1522 and built a port called Sao Tome, after St Thomas, one of the twelve apostles of Christ, who is said to have preached in the region between 52 AD and 70 AD. In 1612, the Dutch came. In 1639, the British East India Company met the Vijayanagar emperor and got permission to built a factory and warehouse for their trading activities. In 1640, the British built Fort George, which became the centre of the colonial city. In 1746, Madras was captured by the French. The British regained control in 1749. By the 18th century, the British had taken control over most of southern India, and established the Madras Presidency, with Madras as its capital.

India got its independence from the British in 1947, and Madras became the capital of Madras State, which was renamed Tamil Nadu in 1969. In 1965, the city saw violent agitations against the imposition of Hindi as the official language, and the agitations prevented Hindi from becoming the sole official language not just in Tamil Nadu but in all of India. In 1996, the city’s name was officially changed from Madras to Chennai. The 2004 tsunami resulted in the deaths of over 200 people in Chennai and caused extensive damage to the coastline. The 2015 floods killed over 200 people in the city.

Chennai is known for its hot and humid tropical climate. It is a major centre for music, art and culture. It is also a tourism hub (with its temples, churches, beaches and museums) and a gateway to tourist attractions in South India. The city has a major cinema industry, popularly known as Kollywood. Several famous film personalities, including C N Annadurai, M G Ramachandran, M Karunanidhi and J Jayalalitha have gone on to become well known politicians. The city is known for its industry, including a significant percentage of the country’s automobile industry. Chennai has very good infrastructure catering to its residents and visitors, in the form of air, train and metro transportation, and some world class hotels.  

Santhome Church is a church built in the 16th century by the Portugese over the tomb of St Thomas, one of the twelve apostles of Christ.  In 1893, it was rebuilt by the British, and that’s the structure that stands today. Besides Santhome Church, only two more churches across the world are built over the tombs of apostles – St Peter’s Basilica at the Vatican, and Santiago de Compostela Cathedral in Spain. The church has a relic in the form of a bone of St Thomas. Santhome Church is white in colour, and the spire stands at a height of 47 meters. It lies just off Chennai’s Marina Beach.

Santhome Church

High Altar, Santhome Church

The Nave, Santhome Church

Painting of the Crowning of the Virgin, Santhome Church

Statue of Pope John Paul II, Santhome Church

Our Lady of Mylapore, Santhome Church

St Andrew’s Church was consecrated in 1821 and was built for the Scottish community in Chennai. It was modeled along the lines of St Martin in the Fields in London’s Trafalgar Square. The church has a circular portion that has a diameter of 24 meters. Inside, the dome is painted in blue, and has golden stars. The dome is supported by 16 pillars. St Andrew’s Church is also well known for its stain glass windows, and its beautiful white marble memorials.

St Andrew's Church

Interior of Dome, St Andrew's Church

Memorial Slab, St Andrew's Church

Kapaleeshwarar Temple was originally built in the 7th century but was demolished by the Portugese in the 16th century. The present structure dates back to the 16th century. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and his consort, Parvati. According to legend, Lord Brahma did not show Shiva the respect he was due and in an act of anger, Shiva plucked one of the four heads of Brahma. Brahma then installed a lingam to please Shiva, and the lingam was supposedly at the site of the original temple. The temple has a 40 meter high gopuram, full of colourful sculptures of figured from Hindu mythology.

Kapaleeshwarar Temple

Valluvar Kottam is a monument built in 1976, dedicated to the Tamil poet Thiru Valluvar. The monument has a large chariot, that stands at a height of 39 meters. Inside the chariot, there is a life size statue of Valluvar. The complex also consists of a decorative arch at the entrance, and an auditorium that can accommodate 3,500 people.

Valluvar Kottam

Chariot, Valluvar Kottam

Base of Chariot, Valluvar Kottam

Elephant at Base of Chariot, Valluvar Kottam

Chennai Central is the main railway terminus of Chennai. The building is a prominent landmark. The gothic structure was built in 1873, and has a central clock tower.

Chennai Central

Ripon Building is a white neo classical building completed in 1913. It houses the Chennai Municipal Corporation. It is named after Lord Ripon, Governor General of British India. The building has a 43 meter high clock tower.

Ripon Building

The Government Museum complex is famous for its Chola bronze sculptures. The National Art Gallery is a part of it and was built in 1906 and is made from red stone in Indo Saracenic style. The gallery’s works include paintings from Thanjavur, sandalwood sculptures, Mughal paintings, miniature paintings, paintings by Raja Ravi Varma and portraits of British officers. The Children’s Museum is also a part of the Government Museum.

National Art Gallery

Madras High Court is the High Court of the state of Tamil Nadu. It was established in 1862. The building, built in the Indo Saracenic architectural style, was completed in 1892.

Madras High Court

Marina Beach is a 6 km long urban beach, one of the longest in the world. It is a sandy beach, that has an average width of 300 meters. Swimming is prohibited for safety reasons. It is a popular hang out place, and is full of numerous stalls selling largely food items and beverages.  Triumph of Labour  Statue on Marina Beach is a statue built by Debi Prasad Roy Chowdhury in 1959. It shows four men trying to move a rock, symbolizing the hard work of the labour class. The annual May Day celebrations take place next to the statue. Anna Samadhi on Marina Beach a memorial to C N Annadurai, the DMK leader and Chief Minster of Tamil Nadu, who died in 1969. MGR Samadhi was built along Marina Beach in 1998 as a memorial to AIADMK leader and Tamil Nadu Chief Minister, M G Ramachandran. In 2016, MGR’s protégé, J Jayalalitha (who was also the AIADMK leader and Chief Minister of Tamil Nadu), was buried at the site.

Stalls, Marina Beach

Triumph of Labour Statue, Marina Beach

Anna Samadhi, Marina Beach

MGR Samadhi, Marina Beach

Shri Ayappan Guruvayurappan Temple is a temple dedicated to Lord Ayappa and was established in the early 1970’s.

Shri Ayappan Guruvayurappan Temple

Taj Fisherman’s Cove Resort and Spa is a luxury hotel along East Coast Road, around 40 km from Chennai and 20 km from Mahabalipuram.  The hotel was built in 1974, on the ramparts of an old fort constructed by the Dutch in the 18th century.  Its restaurants include the outdoor beach side Bay View, and the multi cuisine Sea Gull. It also has an outdoor pool with a bar attached to it. Chennai also has a large number of other luxury hotels, including Taj Coromandel Hotel (with its famous Southern Spice restaurant), Taj Connemara Hotel and ITC Grand Chola.

Taj Fisherman's Cove Resort and Spa

Swimming Pool and Bar, Taj Fisherman's Cove Resort and Spa

Swimming Pool, Taj Fisherman's Cove Resort and Spa

Honey Glazed Pork at Sea Gull, Taj Fisherman's Cove Resort and Spa

Bay View, Taj Fisherman's Cove Resort and Spa

Chennai is well known for its wide range of restaurants. Hotel Saravana Bhawan is a very popular chain of South Indian vegetarian restaurants, with numerous outlets in and around Chennai, and also in other parts of India and internationally. Ponnusamy Hotel is a popular chain of restaurants serving Chettinad food. Annalakshmi also serves South Indian vegetarian fare, but in a very artistic, museum like setting. From the luxury hotels, Taj Coromandel's Southern Spice (with its South Indian coastal food), ITC Grand Chola's Peshawari (with its North West Frontier Province cuisine) and Taj Fisherman's Cove Resort and Spa's Sea Gull and Bay Watch are very popular.

Vada with Sambar and Chutney, Hotel Saravana Bhawan

Chicken 65 and Parotha, Ponnusamy Restaurant

As one leaves Chennai and travels south along East Coast Road, one comes across several well known attractions along the picturesque drive. These include Dakshin Chitra Museum, VGP Golden Beach, MGM Dizzee World, Taj Fisherman's Cove Resort and Spa, Crocodile Bank, and then Mahabalipuram. They all serve as nice places to get away from the hustle and bustle of the metropolis.

Mahabalipuram, or Mamallapuram, is a town of 15,000 people, around 60 km south of Chennai in Tamil Nadu’s Kanchipuram district. It lies along the Bay of Bengal, and is along the picturesque East Coast Road from Chennai. Mahabalipuram was a major port town of the Pallava Kingdom in the 7th century AD. It is famous for its rock temples and monuments, which together are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Descent of the Ganges is a rock relief carved on two monolithic boulders. It has a length of 29 meters and a height of 13 meters. The relief shows the descent of the river Ganga to earth. One interpretation is that it shows Arjuna’s penance, as he prays to Shiva to receive a powerful weapon before the epic Mahabharata battle. Another interpretation is that it shows Bhagiratha praying to bring down the River Ganga for the prosperity of people.

The Descent of the Ganges

The Shore Temple was built in the 8th century AD by the Pallava Dynasty. It was built using blocks of granite. It lies along the shores of the Bay of Bengal, and hence the name.

Shore Temple

Five Rathas or Panch Rathas are a series of rock cut monuments built in the 7th century. The five monuments look like rathas, or chariots, and hence the name. The rathas are named after the Pandavas, and are called the Dharmajaja Ratha, the Bheema Ratha, the Arjuna Ratha, the Nakul Sahadev Ratha, and the Draupadi Ratha. The complex also has a stone statue of an elephant, and one of Nandi the bull.

Dharmaraja Ratha, Five Rathas

Elephant, Five Rathas

Nandi, Five Rathas

Chennai certainly has a lot for visitors. If one is willing to brave it out and face the heat and the humidity, it's well worth a visit to take in the interesting culture, the amazing food and the beautiful architecture.