My Visual Travel Experience: Sofia

I lived in Sofia, Bulgaria, from 1975 to 1977, from the age of 2 to the age of 4. My father was the Indian Ambassador there back then. I have fuzzy memories of the place. I don't remember any of the city's sites. However, I do remember our big house with its grand staircase; my play-school; our pet cat who used to occasionally scratch me if I got rough with her; our nasty maid who used to beat me up when my father and mother weren't around and I wasn't behaving well; our talkative Bulgarian driver; my having proposed to a little girl and her having agreed to marry me (she refused to go back home with her parents until my mother said the wedding would be done with great fanfare when we were 12!); my crush on another little girl in my play-school and my having fallen into a puddle because I was too busy looking at her while walking; my father playing tricks with my toy animals and fooling me into believing that he was taking them out of my belly button; watching "Barba Papa" on TV with my two elder sisters. All in all, I had very fond memories of our stay, except of course memories of our unpleasant maid!

I went back to Sofia in June 2019 with my wife and 4 year old son. I was back there after 42 years! My son was very tickled when I told him I lived there when I was younger than him. I didn't manage to visit our old house, but over the 3 days that we were there, I explored Sofia quite extensively. I was pleasantly surprised by the sheer number of sites the city offered. I was also happy to see how many parks there were in the centre of the city. I did have the unfortunate experience of losing my wallet in Sofia (I think it fell out of my bag when I opened the zip to take out my camera, an act I was doing every few minutes). I lost around 200 Euros, a credit card and a debit card. Other than that, it was a wonderful visit.

Sofia is the capital of Bulgaria and a city with over 1.2 million inhabitants.  Most of the city’s many landmarks are clustered together not far from the famous Aleksandur Nevski Memorial Church in the heart of the city. The city lies at the base of Mount Vitosha, which rises to a height of 2,290 meters above sea level at its highest point.

There has been human habitation in Sofia since at least 7000 BC. Few other cities have seen as many conquests as Sofia has in the course of its long history. In 29 BC, Sofia (then called Serdica) was conquered by the Roman Republic. It was raided by the Huns in 343 – 347 AD and in 447 AD. It was conquered by the Visigoths in 376 – 382 AD, and by the Avara and the Slavs in 617 AD. In 809 AD, the city was taken over by Krum of Bulgaria. In 1018, the Byzantines took over. In 1048 and 1078, the Pechenegs were in control. The Magyars and the Serbs took over in 1183, and the Crusaders in 1095 and 1190. The second Bulgarian Empire lasted from 1194 till 1382, when the Ottomans took over.

The Ottoman rule in Bulgaria lasted for 5 centuries, from 1382 till 1878, when the Russians helped liberate the country. Most of the city’s mosques were destroyed in 1878 and a majority of the Muslim population left. Alexander of Battenberg was the first prince of the Principality of Bulgaria. He abdicated in 1886. Ferdinand I was tsar from 1887 till 1918 (when Bulgaria was defeated in World War I), Boris III from 1918 till 1943 (when he was assassinated, probably by the Nazis), and Simeon II from 1943 till 1946 (when the monarchy was abolished by the Communists). In World War II, Sofia was bombed by the Allied Forces. After the war, the Soviet Army took over. The Communist Party came into power in 1945, and democracy was established in 1990.

Aleksandur Nevski Memorial Church is Sofia’s main cathedral. It was built between 1882 and 1924, to commemorate Russia’s help in the 1877-78 War of Liberation from the Ottomans. It is named after a prominent Russian leader from the 13th century. The grand church has several gilt domes. Inside, there is the Tsar’s Throne built for Tsar Ferdinand, who ruled from 1886 to 1918. The interior of the main dome has a fresco of God the Creator, with Christ on his lap. The museum attached to the church has a large collection of icons, some of which date back to the medieval era.

Aleksandur Nevski Memorial Church

A full view of Aleksandur Nevski Memorial Church

Tsar's Throne, Aleksandur Nevski Memorial Church

Virgin and Child Icon at the Museum,
Aleksandur Nevski Memorial Church

Church of Sveta Nedelya was built on the site of a 10th century church. The present structure was completed in 1863. It was  badly destroyed in 1925 when communists bombed it in an assassination attempt on Tsar Boris III. It had to undergo major repair. The church has beautiful wall paintings showing scenes from the life of Christ.

Church of Sveta Nedelya

Fresco with the Birth of the Virgin, Church of Sveta Nedelya

Fresco with the Virgin Mary, Church of Sveta Nedelya

Church of Sveta Sofia dates back to the 6th century. The city took its name from the church. During the Ottoman rule, the church was used as a mosque, but was abandoned in 1858 after an earthquake. The interior is simple, and has exposed brick work. Outside the church, there is the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, which is guarded by a bronze lion.

Church of Sveta Sofia and
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

Bronze lion sculpture,
Church of Sveta Sofia

Rotunda of Sveti George is situated in a courtyard surrounded by buildings that include the President’s Office. It has been used as a church since the 6th century. In the 16th century, it was converted to a mosque. The church has some beautiful old frescoes. Just behind, there are archaeological finds.

Rotunda of Sveti George

The Russian Church is formally called the Church of St Nicholas the Miracle Worker. It was consecrated in 1914, and was built for the city’s Russian population. Inside, the church is full of frescoes.

Russian Church

The Catholic Cathedral is officially known as the Cathedral of St Joseph. It was built in 2006, after the original was destroyed in World War II.

Catholic Cathedral

Bania Bashi Mosque is the only functioning mosque is Sofia today. It was built in 1576 by the Ottomans. It had a public bath next to it. The mosque has a dome with a 15 meter diameter, and it has a slender minaret.

Bania Bashi Mosque

Sofia Synagogue has a Moorish design and is one of Europe’s biggest synagogues. It was completed in 1909 for the city’s Jewish population. Inside, it has a massive brass chandelier and Moorish mosaics.

Sofia Synagogue

The Archaeological Museum is located in a building that was once the Grand Mosque, built in 1494 and converted into this museum in 1894. The exhibits are displayed in the former prayer hall, under a series of 9 domes. The museum has a fine collection of Greek, Roman and medievel sculptures. The highlights include the Golden Funeral Mask from Shipka dating back to the 5th century BC.

Archaeological Museum

Golden Funeral Mask (5th century BC),
Archaeological Museum

Fortuna (2nd century),
Archaeological Museum

Equestrian with Wife and Child (3rd century),
Archaeological Museum

National Art Gallery is housed in a building which was a part of the former royal palace. It was built in 1873 for the Ottomans, and was then used by Bulgaria’s rulers. The museum has a fine collection of paintings by local Bulgarian artists, depicting the royal family and peasant life. There are also paintings by Bulgarian impressionist artists.

National Art Gallery

Mihaylov's Portrait of the Royal Children,
National Art Gallery

Mitov's Nude Young Girl,
National Art Gallery

Portrait of Tsar Ferdinand,
National Art Gallery

Vitosha Boulevard is Sofia’s main street, full of shops, souvenir stores, restaurants and pubs. It also has some high end designer stores, like Versace, Dolce and Gabbana, and Bulgari. A significant section of the street is pedestrianized, though cars do pass on the various streets crossing it. The vibrant street is one of the liveliest places in Sofia, and eateries like Wok to Walk, Sofia Bar and Dinner, Vitosha Street Bar and Dinner, The Pizza Shop, Eisha, Caffe 88, Social Cafe Bar and Restaurant, Raffy and Samurai always seem to be packed. 

Vitosha Boulevard

Party House was built in 1954 to serve as the headquarters of the Communist Party. The building has classical colonnades and a spire on top. After the Communists lost power, the building was attacked and damaged in 1990. It was restored and is now a part of Bulgaria’s Parliament. The Prime Minister's Office and the Presidency flank the Party House on either side. The Presidency is housed in a 20th century building. It is guarded 24 hours a day by soldiers dressed in parade uniforms. The changing of the guard takes place every hour, and is a popular spectacle.

Party House

Changing of the Guard, Presidency

The National Assembly was built between 1884 and 1928. It is a grand white coloured building, lying at the eastern end of Boulevard Tsar Osvoboditel, that houses many of the city’s important landmarks. 

National Assembly

The Monument to Tsar Aleksander II of Russia was built in honour of the Russia tsar who helped liberate Bulgaria from the Ottomans in the War of Liberation in 1887 – 88. The bronze sculpture has the tsar on horseback and stands outside the National Assembly.

Monument to Aleksander II

Monument of Sveta Sofia was built in 2000. It symbolizes the Orthodox Church’s concept of Holy Wisdom, inspired by the Greek Goddess of Wisdom, Athena. The figure holds a laurel wreath.

Monument to Sveta Sofia

Monument to the Soviet Army shows a Soviet soldier surrounded by a Bulgaria woman holding a baby, and a Bulgarian man. The sculpture, which is in the middle of a big park, was built in 1954, during the 10th anniversary of the liberation of Bulgaria during World War II. 

Monument to the Soviet Army

National Theatre is situated in one corner of Sofia City Garden. The neo classical building was built in 1907 by Viennese architects. It has a Neo Classical façade and a relief of Apollo.

National Theatre

The Central Market Hall has 2 floors, with food stalls and other outlets. The building was constructed in 1909 but restored in the 1990’s. The building’s front façade has an impressive clock tower.

Central Market Hall

Interior, Central Market Hall

The National Gallery of Foreign Art is adjacent to Aleksandur Nevski Memorial Church and has a fine collection of art from other countries. It opened in 1985. It has gifts to the Bulgarian state, African tribal sculpture, Japanese woodblock prints, and sketches by renowned European masters.

National Gallery of Foreign Art

Boyana Church lies on the outskirts of Sofia, close to the foothills of Mount Vitosha. The UNESCO World Heritage site is covered with beautiful 13th century frescoes. The church dates back to the 11th century, but underwent expansion in the 13th century, and the old frescoes were painted over. The intricate frescoes include scenes from the life of Christ, and scenes from the life of St Nicholas. There is also a painting of St John of Rila, Bulgaria’s patron saint. The small church only lets in about 10 people at a time.

Boyana Church

One of Sofia's most famous restaurants is Hajidraganovite Tavern. The traditional restaurant is located in a series of 19th century buildings. The restaurant has an extensive wine list, and cuisines from all over Bulgaria. In the evenings, there is live folk music. Inside the restaurant, one can see traditional costumes, wine barrels and wine bottles.

Hajidraganovite Tavern

Rila Monastery is located about 120 km south of Sofia. It was established in the 10th century by St Ivan of Rila. The monastery was destroyed by the Ottomans in the 15th century, and was damaged by fire in 1833, but it was painstakingly restored each time. It is perhaps Bulgaria’s best known building. The Church of the Nativity stands in the middle of the monastery’s courtyard. The church has a series of domes, and the interior is filled with frescoes. The arched arcade outside is also full of murals depicting scenes from the Old Testament and the New Testament.  St Ivan of Rila lived from 880 to 946. He was a hermit and opted to live in the Rila Mountains. He was believed to have healing powers and his followers got him to establish a monastery. The church has the Grave of Tsar Boris, who was poisoned probably by the Nazis in 1944 for saving Jews. The tsar’s heart is buried there. The church has the relic of St Ivan, in the form of his left hand. It lies in a silver casket, and is opened to the public from time to time.

Rila Monastery

Watch Tower, Rila Monastery

Fresco of Christ, Rila Monastery

Fresco of the Baptism of Christ, Rila Monastery

Fresco of the Virgin Mary, Rila Monastery

Very few places I have been to have had me saying "Wow!!" the moment I first set my eyes on them, but Rila Monastery had the effect on me. I found it to be spectacular and magnificent. We did have our share of adventure during our visit though. Having lost my wallet the previous day, we were down to the equivalent of 140 Euros in cash. For our day's outing, we took 40 Euros with us because we just needed money for our lunch. We got to the departure point of our coach. I had booked tickets online for my wife and myself for 30 Euros each. The site did not give me the option of booking for my young son. I thought that was because it was free for kids. However, at the boarding point, the guide told us that we couldn't go because we hadn't informed them that we had a child with us, and as per Bulgarian law, children have to have car seats on buses. We requested him to find a solution. Finally we had to pay 40 Euros - the guide hired a taxi for us, we went and rented a car seat, and then we rejoined the rest of the group in the coach. We were totally out of cash now. Our guide said credit card machines don't always work at Rila Monastery because it is in an isolated place up in the hills in a forest area. We stopped at a gas station, and my wife used her debit card to withdraw cash. The machine swallowed up her card! We had no money for lunch, and we weren't going to be back in our hotel till the evening. Our guide was very sweet, and lent us 50 Euros to see us through the day. Fortunately, the credit card machine was functioning at the restaurant in Rila Monastery, and we were able to return our guide's money!

Yes, we had our share of unexpected adventures in Bulgaria, with things going wrong. Still, we came back with very fond memories of Sofia etched in our minds! The churches were stunning, the museums had interesting collections, there was greenery everywhere in central Sofia in the form of city parks, people were by and large helpful and friendly, the food was good, and the country was incredibly inexpensive compared to other places in Europe. A big thumbs up from me to this city that isn't on the tourist map for a lot of travelers!