Thursday, August 30, 2018

My Visual Travel Experience: Mumbai

I've never lived in Mumbai but I feel like I've almost lived there, because since 1995, I have visited Mumbai almost every year. I've spent a cumulative of over 4 months in the city, and in some years I've spent 2 or even 3 weeks there. My trips have largely been on work, but I've also gone to visit family and friends. It's a city that has grown on me over the years, and I find it to be one of India's most dynamic and vibrant cities.

Mumbai, called Bombay till 1995, has a population of 12.4 million (2011 census) and is India’s most populated city. It is India’s commercial capital, as well as being the capital of the state of Maharashtra. Today Mumbai is a large financial, commercial and entertainment centre. It has important financial institutions like the Bombay Stock Exchange, the National Stock Exchange and SEBI. It houses the corporate headquarters of numerous large companies. It is also home to the popular Hindi film industry, widely known as Bollywood.

Mumbai consists of a set of 7 islands. It came under the control of the Portugese in 1534. In 1661, Charles II of England married Catherine of Braganza, and the 7 islands were a part of the dowry. That’s how they came under the British East India Company. Bombay gradually became a major seaport and with it, a big economic hub. By 1845, a major civil engineering project was completed that merged the 7 islands into a single landmass through land reclamation. After India’s independence from the British in 1947, the city became a part of Bombay State. In 1960, the state of Maharashtra was formed and Bombay became its capital.

Mumbai offers a lot to visitors. The city has a popular seafront; vibrant beaches; interesting museums; beautiful Victorian English architecture that reminds one of London; popular malls, markets and shopping streets; great places for entertainment; world class hotels and restaurants; delicious street food; large parks; and well known temples, churches and mosques.

Mumbai isn’t without its share of problems. Traffic jams are a part of life, but the train system acts as the city’s life line. In recent years, infrastructure development has been good, and highways and flyovers have come up. The Mumbai Metro and the Mumbai Monorail have also come up, helping in decongesting the city. In Mumbai, one can see wealth and poverty coexist like nowhere else. The city has many of the country’s wealthiest businessmen and actors, but it also has sprawling slums. The city has also had its unfortunate share of terror attacks, most notably in 1993 after the Babri Masjid demolition, and then in 2008 when there were attacks in various parts of the city, including the iconic Taj Mahal Hotel. However, Mumbai has always managed to bounce back and despite everything, it is perhaps India’s most vibrant city!

Gateway of India was built to commemorate the visit to India by King George V and Queen Mary in 1911. The foundation stone was laid in 1911 but the gateway was completed in 1924. It overlooks the Arabian Sea, and lies adjacent to Taj Mahal Hotel.
Gateway of India, and Taj Mahal Hotel
Taj Mahal Hotel is situated in Colaba near Gateway of India. The hotel opened in 1903, and was set up by Jamsetji Tata.  It is one of Mumbai’s best known landmarks. The hotel has over 500 rooms. Many heads of state and other well known personalities have stayed at the luxury hotel. In 2008, the hotel was damaged in the Mumbai terror strike and 31 people were killed in the hotel. The hotel was quickly renovated after the attack.
Taj Mahal Hotel
Marine Drive is a 3.6 km long boulevard in South Mumbai. The C shaped road is also referred to as the Queen’s Necklace. It connects Nariman Point to Malabar Hill. The boulevard has landmarks like the Air India Building, The Oberoi and The Trident. It also passes through the popular Chowpatty Beach. The boulevard also has many art deco buildings from the 1920’s and 1930’s.
Air India Building, Marine Drive
The Trident and The Oberoi, Marine Drive
Rocks, Marine Drive
Chowpatty Beach is a popular beach along Marine Drive. The beach is famous for its street-food like bhel-puri. During the festival of Ganesh Chaturthi, the beach is Mumbai’s most popular one for the immersion of the Ganesha idols into the Arabian Sea.
Chowpatty Beach
Rajabai Clock Tower is a part of the University of Mumbai. It lies at Oval Maidan, between Bombay High Court and City Civil and Sessions Court. The clock tower is 85 meters tall and is designed along the lines of London’s Big Ben. Premchand Roychand, a prosperous broker, was one of the donors for the construction. His mother was blind, and the tower’s evening bell helped her keep track of the time.
Rajabai Tower
Bombay High Court lies at Oval Maidan in Churchgate. The Gothic building was completed in 1878.
Bombay High Court
The City Civil and Sessions Court lies at Oval Maidan. It is one of three Gothic buildings along Oval Maidan along with Bombay High Court and Rajabai Tower.
City Civil and Sessions Court
Victoria Terminus, renamed Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus in 2004 and then Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus in 2017, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is the headquarters of the Central Railways. The station was built in 1887 to commemorate the golden jubilee of Queen Victoria’s rule. The building is designed in Victorian Gothic architectural style.  
Victoria Terminus
Lion Sculpture, Victoria Terminus
Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation Building lies opposite Chhatrapai Shivaji Maharaj Terminus. The Gothic building houses the civic body that governs the city. The Bombay Municipal Corporation was set up in 1865 with Arthur Crawford as its first commissioner. The building was completed in 1893.
Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation Building
David Sassoon Library was completed in 1870 by the Jewish philanthropist, David Sassoon. It was opened as a library and reading room for the European employees working for the Government Mint and the Dockyard.  Above the entrance, there is a marble bust of David Sassoon.
David Sassoon Library
Elphinstone College  is affiliated to the University of Mumbai. It was established in 1856 and is one of the oldest colleges in Mumbai.
Elphinstone College
Flora Fountain at Hutatma Chowk was built in 1864 in Mumbai’s Fort area.  It is dedicated to the Roman goddess Flora.
Flora Fountain
Hutatma Chowk is a square that houses Flora Fountain. It also has a statue of a martyr with a flame, to commemorate 105 members of the Samyukta Maharashtra Samiti, who lost their lives in 1960 in police firing while demonstrating peacefully for the creation of the state of Maharashtra.
Hutatma Chowk
Haji Ali Dargah is a mosque and tomb in Worli. The Dargah was built in 1431 in memory of a wealthy merchant Sayyed Peer Haji Ali Shah Bukhari, who hailed from modern day Uzbekistan and eventually settled in Mumbai. The Dargah lies in the sea, and is connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of land.  
Haji Ali Dargah
Interior, Haji Ali Dargah
Prince of Wales Museum, now called the Chhatrapati Shivaji Museum, was established in 1922, and was set up to commemorate the visit by Edward VII, then the Prince of Wales. The grand building is in the Indo-Saracenic architectural style. The museum has three broad sections – art, archaeology and natural history – and its extensive collections include stone sculptures, metal sculptures, coins, textiles, prehistoric finds, a natural history section, European paintings, a Chinese and Japanese gallery and miniature paintings.
Prince of Wales Museum
Pots in the Prehistorical Section, 
Prince of Wales Museum
Ganesha in the Sculpture Gallery,
Prince of Wales Museum
Tigers in the Natural History Section, 
Prince of Wales Museum
Ceramic Plate in the Chinese and Japanese Gallery, 
Prince of Wales Museum
Sculpture of Sir Ratan Tata in the European Paintings Section, 
Prince of Wales Museum
Ivory Rooster, 
Prince of Wales Museum
Sculpture of Krishna, 
Prince of Wales Museum
Bhau Daji Lad Museum was originally established in 1855 and moved to its present location in 1872. It is Mumbai’s oldest museum. It was formerly called the Victoria and Albert Museum. The museum’s collections include archaeological finds, maps of Mumbai, metal ware and costumes.
Bhau Daji Lad Museum
Interior, 
Bhau Daji Lad Museum
Clock Tower, 
Bhau Daji Lad Museum
Bust of David Sassoon, 
Bhau Daji Lad Museum
Elephant Sculpture from Elephanta Island,
Bhau Daji Lad Museum
Woman with Diya,Bhau Daji Lad Museum 
Siddhivinayak Temple is located in Prabhadevi. It was originally built in 1801 and is Mumbai's richest temple. The temple is dedicated to Lord Ganesha. The inner roof is plated with gold.
Siddhivinayak Temple
Basilica of our Lady of the Mount, also called Mount Mary Church, is located in Bandra.  The original church was destroyed and the current structure dates back to 1904. During the annual Bandra fair, the area is full of buntings and stalls selling religious articles and snacks. The church’s statue of Our Lady dates back to the 16th century AD, when Jesuit priests from Portugal brought it to its current location.
Mount Mary Church

High Altar, Mount Mary Church
St Andrew’s Church was built by the Jesuits in 1575. It is located in Bandra and is one of Mumbai’s oldest churches. 
St Andrew's Church
High Altar, St Andrew's Church
Vidhan Bhavan, situated in Nariman Point, houses the Maharashtra Legislative Assembly.
Vidhan Bhavan
Hanging Gardens are located in Malabar Hill opposite Kamla Nehru Park. The gardens have hedges in the shape of animals. One gets a good view of the Arabian Sea from there.
Hanging Gardens
Kamla Nehru Park lies opposite Hanging Gardens. The park is popular with children, and the shoe structure is one of its more popular attractions.
Kamla Nehru Park
Joggers Park is a seaside jogging track in Bandra.  The park opened in 1990 and the jogging track is 400 meters long.
Joggers Park
High Street Phoenix is a large mall located in Lower Parel. In 1905, Phoenix Mills was opened to manufacture cotton textiles. In 1977, the mill was destroyed in a fire. The mall came up in 1996. The mall complex also includes a residential tower, a five star hotel, Palladium with its high end fashion stores, and India’s first Big Bazaar and Hamleys outlets.
High Street Phoenix
Parel used to house many of Mumbai’s cloth mills, which have been demolished, and swanky apartment buildings like Vivarea and Planet Godrej have come up in their place.
Vivarea, Parel
Mumbai has many world class hotels, including Taj Mahal Hotel in Colaba, Taj Land End Hotel in Bandra, The Oberoi along Marine Drive, The Trident along Marine Drive, The Leela in Juhu, ITC Grand Maratha in Andheri, and ITC Grand Central in Parel. ITC Grand Central is particularly interesting, with its interesting architecture and its towers. 
ITC Grand Central
Mumbai is a great place for foodies. Popular eating places include Wasabi at Taj Palace Hotel (Mumbai's top Japanese restaurant), Peshawari at ITC Grand Maratha (with its North West Frontier Province food), The Peshwa Pavilion at ITC Grand Maratha (with its Indian and Asian cuisines), Goa Portugesa in Mahim (with its Goan cuisines), Celini at Grand Hyatt (a great place for Italian food), Pizzeria by the Bay along Marine Drive (with its delicious pizzas, overlooking Marine Drive and the Arabian Sea ahead), Trishna (Mumbai's most popular sea food restaurant) and Chowpatty Beach and Juhu Beach (which have their popular local street food, like bhel-puri).

Elephanta Caves are a UNESCO World Heritage Site situated on Elephanta Island, 10 km to the east of Mumbai. The caves have rock cut cave temples dating back to the 5th to the 9th centuries. The best known idol at Elephants Caves is the 6.1 meter tall Shiva Trimurti statue.  
Elephanta Caves
So Mumbai certainly has a lot to offer to visitors. It doesn't have the kind of history that Delhi has, but it still has enough sites to keep visitors busy for days on end.

Monday, August 27, 2018

My Visual Travel Experience: Las Vegas

I visited Las Vegas for 3 days in 2005, and then for 4 days along with my wife soon after our wedding in 2011. Las Vegas evokes very different reactions in people. Some love it, some hate it. There are very few moderate reactions. I found myself loving the time I spent there. Admittedly, it may not have the history, culture, heritage and architectural landmarks that a lot of world cities have, and it may be very artificial and perhaps even tacky, but if one goes with the mindset that it is largely an entertainment city known for its casinos, its shows and its grand hotels, then one can't help but be impressed with what all the city has to offer in these spaces.

Las Vegas lies in the Western USA state of Nevada, and has a population of close to 600,000 (2012 figure). Known for its swanky hotels, casinos, entertainment shows, strip clubs, bars and glitzy nightlife, Las Vegas is rightly called the entertainment capital of the world, with over 35 million visitors annually! Vegas is also known for its wedding chapels famous for marrying off drunk couples who wouldn’t necessary marry if they were sober! After a day or two in the town, one easily begins to understand the logic behind the saying “What happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas!”

The Las Vegas Boulevard, also knows as The Strip, runs north to south and most of the city’s famous hotels lie along it. A large number of the hotels are theme based. So we have Caesar’s Palace representing Ancient Rome, New York New York replicating New York, Paris Las Vegas representing Paris, Luxor Las Vegas showcasing Ancient Egypt, and The Venetian giving a strong flavour of Venice. Besides the theme based hotels, there are also luxurious hotels like The Wynn and Bellagio, which rank among the most opulent hotels in the world. Vegas’s shows are legendary. They cover a cross section of performances, ranging from musicals like Phantom Of The Opera, to erotic shows like Burlesque, to Cirque De Soleil shows like Viva Elvis with breathtaking acrobatics. Superstars of yesteryear like Frank Sinatra and Elvis Presley spent significant portions of their careers performing in Vegas.

Caesars Palace has Ancient Rome as its theme, and is very true to its theme in terms of its architecture and sculptures. It has replicas of the Colosseum, the Trevi Fountain, and famous Italian statues like the Rape of the Sabine Women and Michelangelo's David. The hotel was established in 1966, and has almost 4,000 rooms. Many international music stars have performed at the hotel, including Frank Sinatra, Rod Stewart, Celine Dion, Cher, Bette Midler, Elton John, Diana Ross, Janet Jackson, Ricky Martin and Mariah Carey.
Entrance and statue of the Rape of the Sabine Women,
Caesars Palace
Trevi Fountain,
Caesars Palace
Winged Victor of Samothrace,
Caesars Palace
Venus de Canova,
Caesars Palace
Michelangelo's David,
Caesars Palace
Colosseum,
Caesars Palace
The Venetian provides a great Venetian experience. Not only are there replicas of Venice’s landmarks like the Rialto Bridge and the St Mark’s Campidoglio, but there is also the Grand Canal running through the shopping arcade, with visitors being able to enjoy Venetian gondola rides! The Guggenheim Hermitage Museum has a wing inside the hotel. The hotel opened in 1999, and has over 4,000 rooms.
St Mark's Campidoglio, The Venetian
Rialto Bridge, The Venetian
The Grand Canal, The Venetian
St Marks Square, The Venetian
Venetian Masks, The Venetian
New York New York has the Big Apple as its theme. The exterior of the hotel has replicas of New York landmarks like the Empire States Building, the Chrysler Building, the Statue of Liberty, Brooklyn Bridge, Grand Central Station and the Immigration Museum on Ellis Island. One of the highlights is the grand roller coaster that runs through the hotel. The hotel opened in 1997 and has over 2,000 rooms.

New York New York
Paris Las Vegas has the city of Paris as its theme. The hotel has the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe and the Opera Garnier. The Eiffel Tower stands over 500 feet tall and is roughly half the height of the original in Paris. A lift takes visitors to the summit, from where one gets spectacular views of The Strip. The hotel was established in 1999 and has almost 3,000 rooms.
Eiffel Tower, Paris Las Vegas
Arc de Triomphe, Paris Las Vegas
Opera Garnier, Paris Las Vegas
Bellagio is famous for its musical fountain shows in the artificial lake at the front. The hotel’s arcade also houses a range of designer stores. The hotel also has an art gallery with impressive works. The lobby has a stunning display of hand blown glass flowers. The hotel was inspired by the Lake Como town of Bellagio in Italy. The hotel was conceived by Steve Wynn, it opened in 1998 and has almost 4,000 rooms.

Bellagio
Glass flowers at the lobby, Bellagio
Shopping Arcade, Bellagio
Wynn Las Vegas is one of Vegas’ most opulent hotels, and built by Las Vegas billionaire Steve Wynn. The hotel opened in 2005 and has over 2,700 rooms.
Wynn Las Vegas
Horse Sculpture, Wynn Las Vegas
With over 6,800 rooms rooms, MGM Grand Las Vegas is one of the world’s largest hotels. Outside the hotel lies a 40 ton bronze sculpture of the MGM Lion, the entertainment company’s logo. At the lobby, there’s a glass enclosure through which one can see lions. One can also get oneself photographed petting a lion’s cub!
Bronze Lion, MGM Grand Las Vegas
Lion Statue, MGM Grand Las Vegas
Luxor Las Vegas has Ancient Egypt as its theme, and one gets to see the Giant Sphinx outside, as well as obelisks and replicas of sculptures of funerary animals. The hotel has popular exhibitions from time to time. Some of the famous ones include one that features a replica of King Tutenkhamun’s Tomb and one that has surviving items from The Titanic, which went down after hitting an iceberg in the Atlantic in 1912, killing over 1500 people. Luxor Las Vegas opened in 1993 and has over 4,400 rooms.
Sphinx, Luxor Las Vegas
Obelisk, Luxor Las Vegas
Mandalay Bay is the southernmost hotel on The Strip. The hotel has an impressive Shark Reef, that has sharks, crocodiles and a host of sea creatures. There are numerous oriental sculptures, giving the place a feel of a sunken oriental temple. The hotel opened in 1999 and has over 3,200 rooms. It has had shows like The Lion King and Michael Jackson: One. In 2017, a shooter fired indiscriminately from a room on the hotel's 32nd floor and killed 58 people and injured 546 others.
Mandalay Bay
Sculpture, Mandalay Bay
Shark at the Shark Reef, Mandalay Bay
Lion Fish at the Shark Reef, Mandalay Bay
Golden Crocodile at Shark Reef, Mandalay Bay
At The Mirage, a Polynesian theme hotel, one can get to see live dolphins. Every evening, there is free simulated live volcano display that takes place in the artificial lake in front of the hotel. The Mirage has been the venue of the popular Beatles Cirque De Soleil show. The hotel opened in 1989 and has over 3,000 rooms
The Mirage
Dolphin Statues, The Mirage
Circus Circus Las Vegas resembles a large circus tent. There are regular circus performances in the hotel, and there are also carousels, other rides and games of the type one finds at fairs. The hotel was set up in 1968 and has over 3,700 rooms. 

Circus Circus Las Vegas
Painting at lobby, Circus Circus Las Vegas

Flamingo Las Vegas is another one of The Strip’s favourite hotels. It has a wildlife habitat that has flamingoes (no prizes for guessing that!) as well as water birds and fish. The hotel originally opened in 1946 and has over 3,600 rooms.
Flamingo Habitat, Flamingo Las Vegas
Stratosphere Las Vegas has a 1,149 foot tower that offers spectacular views of the town and the desert landscape beyond. It is at the northernmost point of The Strip. At the summit, there is a cafĂ©, and one can also indulge in thrilling adventure sports like bungee jumping. One has to be quite a dare devil for that! The hotel opened in 1996 and has over 2,400 rooms.
Stratosphere Las Vegas
Right beside The Venetian is Madame Tussauds Las Vegas, with wax works of politicians, Hollywood movie stars, pop stars and sports personalities. It opened in 1999, and was the first Madame Tussauds in the US.
Sammy Davis Jr, Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin,
Madame Tussauds Las Vegas
Elvis Presley, 
Madame Tussauds Las Vegas
Michael Jackson as a child, 
Madame Tussauds Las Vegas
Michael Jackson in his youth, 
Madame Tussauds Las Vegas
Michael Jackson towards the end, 
Madame Tussauds Las Vegas
Andre Agassi,
Madame Tussauds Las Vegas
Fremont Street Experience is the second entertainment district in Vegas after The Strip. Fremont Street has shops, hotels, casinos and restaurants. The street is under a long roof that is illuminated by neon lights in the evenings. The street also has Aladin’s Lamp, which used to be a part of the Aladin Hotel from the 1960's.
Fremont Street Experience
Golden Goose, Fremont Street Experience
Fremont Casino and 4 Queens, Fremont Street Experience
Aladin's Lamp, Fremont Street Experience
So Las Vegas is a unique experience. Come in expecting nothing more than entertainment, shows, casinos, glitz, glamour, fancy hotels and fine dining, and you won't be disappointed. The only other place in the world that is a bit like Vegas is Macau, but Vegas is still Vegas and "What happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas!"