My Visual Travel Experience: Hyderabad

Between 2000 and 2010, during my marketing stints in Britannia and then Nokia, I spent a cumulative of about 2 weeks in Hyderabad. I used to go there on market visits or consumer insight trips every couple of years. Whenever I could, I used to try and club my visit with a weekend so that I could explore this historical city, and spend time with my father's younger brother and his wife, who were settled there. In 2011, I set up my own travel souvenir company. Subsequently I visited Hyderabad to tie up with the airport there to sell my souvenirs. I also went on a couple of sad occasions, when my cousin and later my aunt passed away. So I've spent a total of around 3 weeks in Hyderabad and have got a chance to see the city quite well.

Hyderabad is a city with a population of 6.7 million (2011 census) and is the capital of the state of Telangana. Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah, the fifth sultan of the Qutb Shahi Dynasty, established the city in 1591. The Qutb Shahi Dynasty ruled for close to a century, before the Mughals took over in 1686. In 1724, Asaf Jah I was appointed the Viceroy of the Deccan by the Mughal Emperor. He created his own dynasty, known as the Nizams of Hyderabad. Hyderabad was a princely state in the British period, and it was the wealthiest of all the princely states. Hyderabad became a part of the Indian Union in 1948, though reluctantly, and it became the capital of the state of Andhra Pradesh in 1956. In 2014, Andhra Pradesh was split into two states, and Telangana was formed, with Hyderabad as its capital. Hyderabad will also temporarily be the capital of Andhra Pradesh till 2025.

Charminar is a monument that was built in 1591 by the fifth ruler of the Qutb Shahi Dynasty, Sultan Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah, after he shifted his capital from Golconda to Hyderabad. It literally means “Four Minarets”. Charminar is in the middle of a busy intersection in the heart of the old town. The Laad Bazaar lies on one side, and the Mecca Masjid lies on another side.

Charminar

Golconda Fort is a fort on the outskirts of Hyderabad. It was the capital of the Qutb Shahi Dynasty of sultans in the 16th century, until the capital shifted to Hyderabad in 1590. After 1686, the fort fell into ruin, after an 8 month siege by the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb. The Golconda region is famous for having produced some of the world’s biggest diamonds, including the Kohinoor. In the evenings, Golconda Fort has a sound and light show, where visitors are taken through the history of the fort.

Bala Hissar Gateway, Golconda Fort

Clapping Portico seen from Baradari, Golconda Fort

Baradari, Golconda Fort

Clapping Portico, Golconda Fort

Nakkar Khana, Golconda Fort

Qutb Shahi Tombs lie close to Golconda Fort and contain the tombs of the kings of the Qutb Shahi Dynasty. As per custom, the tombs were ordinarily built by the sultans during their lifetime. The rulers of the Qutb Shahi Dynasty were: 
1.Sultan Quli Qutb Mulk (1512-1543) 
2.Sultan Jamsheed Quli Qutb Shah (1543-1550) 
3.Sultan Subhan Quli Qutb Shah (1550) 
4.Sultan Ibrahim Quli Qutb Shah (1550-1580) 
5.Sultan Mohammad Quli Qutb Shah (1580-1611) 
6.Sultan Mohammad Qutb Shah (1611-1626) 
7.Sultan Abdullah Qutb Shah (1626-1672) 
8.Sultan Abul Hasan Qutb Shah (1672-1686).

Great Mosque, Qutb Quli Tombs

Tomb of Sultan Jamsheed Quli Qutb Shah (the 2nd sultan,
who assassinated his father), Qutb Quli Tombs

Tomb of Sultan Mohammad Quli Qutb Shah (the 5th sultan,
who was the founder of Hyderabad), Qutb Quli Tombs

Tomb of Hayat Baksh Begum (wife of the 5th sultan),
Qutb Quli Tombs

Tomb of Kulsum Begum,
Qutb Quli Tombs

Hussain Sagar is a lake built by Sultan Ibrahim Quli Qutub Shah in 1563. An 18 meter tall Buddha statue stands on a small island in the middle of the lake, and was erected in 1992. The lake has a surface area of about 4.4 sq km. The lake separates Hyderabad from its twin city Secunderabad.

Buddha Statue, Hussain Sagar

Chowmahalla Palace was the palace of the Nizams of Hyderabad. Construction started in 1750 and went on till the 1880’s. Nizam Salabat Jang started work on the palace. The palace remains the property of the heir to the Nizams, Barkat Ali Khan Mukarram Jah. All ceremonial functions of the Nizams were held here. The Nizams of Hyderabad were called the Asaf Jahs. They were: 

1.Asaf Jah I (1724-1748) 
2.Nasir Jang (1748-1750) 
3.Muzaffar Jung (1750-1751) 
4.Salabat Jung (1751-1762) 
5.Asaf Jah II (1762-1803) 
6.Asaf Jah III (1803-1829) 
7.Asaf Jah IV (1829-1857) 
8.Asaf Jah V (1857-1869) 
9.Asaf Jah VI (1869-1911) 
10.Asaf Jah VII (1911-1948). 

After independence in 1947, the last Nizam chose not to join India. In 1948, the Indian army moved in and the Nawab was forced to accede.

Chowmahalla Palace

Clock Tower, Chowmahalla Palace

Durbar Hall, Chowmahalla Palace

Ceiling with Chandelier, Chowmahalla Palace

Porcelain Plate, Chowmahalla Palace

Ceramic Bowl, Chowmahalla Palace

Falaknuma Palace was completed in 1893. It was owned by the Paigah family, and later by the Nizams of Hyderabad.  In 1897, the sixth Nizam, Mir Mahbub Ali Khan, was invited to stay. He liked the palace so much, that it was offered to him, and that’s how the palace came under the ownership of the Nizams. The palace was used as a guest house for guests of the Nizams. In 2010, the Taj group of hotels took over, renovated the palace and converted it into a luxury hotel. 

Falaknuma Palace

Cannon, Falaknuma Palace

Courtyard, Falaknuma Palace

Gateway, Falaknuma Palace

Lawns, Falaknuma Palace

Hall, Falaknuma Palace

The Unani Hospital was established in 1926 by the last Nizam, Mir Osman Ali Khan, and is located right next to Charminar.

Unani Hospital

Salar Jang Museum  is named after Nawab Mir Yusuf Ali Khan Salar Jang III (1889-1949), the Prime Minister of the Nawab. The collection was built up by him over a period 35 years. The museum’s collections include paintings by Raja Ravi Varma, Aurangzeb’s sword, the famous Veiled Rebecca marble statue, clocks, furniture, ivory sculptures and stone sculptures.

Salarjang Museum

The Assembly Building is an impressive white building that houses the Legislative Assembly.

Assembly Building

Birla Temple was completed in 1976 and was built by the Birla family. It lies on a hill overlooking Hussain Sagar Lake.  The temple is made out of white marble.

Birla Temple

HITEC City is an information technology centre launched in the 1990’s by Larsen and Toubro in collaboration with the state government.

HITEC City

Paradise Biryani is Hyderabad’s best known biryani place. The original restaurant opened in 1953 at Paradise Cinema. Now it is a successful chain with outlets all over Hyderabad, and also in other cities.

Paradise Biryani

Hyderabad is a very eclectic city indeed. The legacy of the Qutb Quli sultans and the Nizams is certainly alive through the beautiful monuments they built. There is the modern side to the city, with its information technology centres, its commercial complexes and its large malls. There's the world famous Hyderabadi cuisine in the form of the biryanis. And then there are the traditional bazaars in the old city, like the Laad Bazaar adjoining the Charminar. So whether you're a history lover, a foodie or a shopper, there's something in the city for everyone. Yes, I'm not a fan of the city's traffic, but recent years have seen good infrastructure development - the city's Rajiv Gandhi International Airport is impressive, and a lot of flyovers have come up that have reduced congestion. I always look forward to my visits to Hyderabad, and no visit is ever complete without a meal at Paradise Biryani!