Monday, June 8, 2020

My Visual Travel Experience: Agra

I have visited Agra on many occasions, and I have spent a cumulative of around 2 weeks in the city. In 1975, my parents took me and my two elder sisters there. As a two year old, I was more interested in chasing squirrels than in seeing Taj Mahal! In 1992, I went to Agra with three of my very close buddies, two from my neighbourhood and one from my college. It was a morning-evening trip from Delhi, and we went on a guided tour in a coach. In 1996, my work in sales and distribution took me to Agra. In 2003, my work again took me to Agra and I also managed to visit Taj Mahal with a colleague and close friend. In 2006, my company had a sales conference in Agra, and we stayed in luxury at ITC Mughal. In 2007, I drove down to Agra with my elder sister and her German friend who was visiting from Bremen; my sister and she had been in college together years earlier. We stayed at Trident Agra, and we explored the city quite thoroughly.

In 2011, my then girlfriend, who I went on to marry later that year, took me to Agra without telling me where we were going or what her plan was. She just told me she was whisking me away for two days, and she had secretly planned out a lovely weekend there. We stayed in regal style at The Oberoi Amarvilas and we saw Taj Mahal on a full-moon night! In 2013, my wife and I again visited Agra to tie up with The Oberoi Amarvilas for our souvenir products. We drove down from Delhi-NCR on the world class Yamuna Express Highway, which got us to Agra in the flash of an eye. We stayed at Wyndham Grand Hotel, and saw sights of Agra well beyond the few sights that most people end up seeing, including some that were new for me. So Agra is certainly not just about Taj Mahal and there is undoubtedly a lot more to savour in this historic city, which was the capital of the Mughal Empire for many years!

Agra is situated in the North Indian state of Uttar Pradesh and has a population of 1.5 million (as per the 2011 census). It lies along the Yamuna River and is just over 200 km south of Delhi. It is one of India’s most popular tourist destinations because of the presence of Taj Mahal, one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. Taj Mahal, Agra Fort and Fatehpur Sikri are all UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Akbar’s Tomb in Sikandra and Tomb of Itmad-ud-Daulah are also popular attractions. Along with Delhi and Jaipur, Agra is a part of the Golden Triangle, one of India’s most popular tourist circuits.

Sikandar Lodi moved his capital from Delhi to Agra in 1504. After his death in 1517, his son Ibrahim Lodi ruled from Agra. He was defeated by Babur in the Battle of Panipat in 1526, which ended the Delhi Sultanate and ushered in Mughal rule in India. Babur’s son, Humayun, ruled from Delhi but Humayun’s son, Akbar, made Agra his capital. Agra was the capital of the Mughal Empire from 1558 till 1648 under three successive Mughal emperors, namely Akbar, his son Jahangir, and his grandson Shahjahan. Akbar built  a new city, Fatehpur Sikri, on the outskirts of Agra in 1571. Shahjahan commissioned Taj Mahal in 1632 in memory of his wife, Mumtaz Mahal. The magnificent memorial was completed in 1653. In 1648, Shahjahan moved his capital from Agra to Shahjahanabad in Delhi, but Aurangzeb moved the capital back to Agra and imprisoned his father.

After the death of Aurangzeb in 1707, the Mughal Empire went into gradual decline. The Marathas took over the city. It then became a part of the British Raj in 1803. Apart from a brief period during the 1857 rebellion against the British, Agra remained a part of the British Raj until India got its independence in 1947.

Taj Mahal was commissioned in 1632 by Emperor Shahjahan to house the tomb of his wife Mumtaz Mahal. It was completed in 1653. Shahjahan was deposed by his son Aurangzeb in 1658. After his death in 1666, Shahjahan was also buried there. Taj Mahal is a white marble mausoleum. It lies in a 42 acre complex which has a mosque, a guest house and a sprawling garden. In 1983, Taj Mahal was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 
Taj Mahal
Entrance Gateway, Taj Mahal
The dome of Taj Mahal has a height of 35 meters. Each of the four minarets surrounding the mausoleum has a height of 40 meters. The main hall has copies of the tombs of Mumtaz Mahal and Shahjahan. The actual tombs are at a lower level.
Entrance to the Tomb, Taj Mahal
Koranic Verses, Taj Mahal
Floral Motifs, Taj Mahal
Agra Fort is an ancient fort. When Sikandar Lodi shifted his capital from Delhi to Agra in 1504, he constructed some structures inside it. After the Battle of Panipat in 1526, the fort came under the control of the Mughals. In 1530, Humayun was crowned Emperor inside the fort. Agra Fort underwent major changes during the reign of Akbar, which lasted from 1556 to 1605. Akbar made Agra his capital in 1558. The refurbished Agra Fort was completed in 1573.
Khas Mahal and Angoori Bagh, Agra Fort
Khas Mahal Interior, Agra Fort
Jahangir's Palace, Agra Fort
Jahangir's Hauz, Agra Fort
Agra Fort is spread over an area of 94 acres and has a semi-circular plan. Some of Agra Fort’s notable landmarks include Jahangir’s Hauz (a monolithic tank used for bathing), Musamman Burj (an octagonal structure used for sun worship), Jahangir’s Palace, Diwan-i-Aam, Khas Mahal, Nagina Masjid, the Black Marble Throne of Jahangir, the White Marble Throne of Jahangir and Roshanara Mahal (named after Shahjahan's daughter).
Musamman Burj, Agra Fort
Interior of Nagina Masjid, Agra Fort
Jahangir's Throne made of Black Marble, Agra Fort
Roshanara Mahal, Agra Fort
Fatehpur Sikri lies just outside the city of Agra and was founded as the capital of the Mughal Empire by Akbar in 1571, and served that role till 1585. It was completely abandoned in 1610. Highlights of Fatehpur Sikri include Bulund Darwaza (a 55 meter tall gateway to the complex), Jama Masjid (a congregational mosque), Tomb of Salim Chishti (the renowned Sufi saint) and Tomb of Islam Khan (the grandson of Salim Chishti).
Bulund Darwaza, Fatehpur Sikri
Jama Masjid, Fatehpur Sikri
The town of  Fatehpur Sikri has a population of just over 32,000 (as per the 2011 census) and it lies about 35 km west of Agra.
Tomb of Salim Chishti, Fatehpur Sikri
Tomb of Islam Khan, Fatehpur Sikri
Graves, Fatehpur Sikri
Akbar’s Tomb is situated in Sikandra, a suburb of Agra. Akbar died in 1605. His son and heir, Jahangir, had the tomb built between 1605 and 1613. It is built on 119 acres of ground. The south gate is the largest and most imposing of the mausoleum’s gates. The building is made from red sandstone. The hall has a copy of Akbar’s tomb. The real tomb lies in the basement.  
Akbar's Tomb, Sikandra
Entrance of Akbar's Tomb, Sikandra
Akbar’s Tomb was ransacked and looted  by the Jats during the reign of Aurangzeb. The Viceroy of India, Lord Curzon, had extensive repairs and renovation done, which were completed in 1905, and this restored the mausoleum to its former glory.
Motifs at the Gateway of Akbar's Tomb, Sikandra
Interior of Akbar's Tomb, Sikandra
Replica of Akbar's Grave at Akbar's Tomb, Sikandra
Tomb of Itmad-ud-Daulah is the final resting place of Mirza Ghiyas Beg, also called Itmad-ud-Daulah. He was the father of Jahangir’s wife, Nur Jehan. He died in 1622 and the mausoleum was completed in 1628. The white marble mausoleum with detailed inlay work is considered a draft of Taj Mahal. It is often called “Jewel Box” because of its shape.
Itmad-ud-Daulah
Window, Itmad-ud-Daulah
Floral Motif, Itmad-ud-Daulah
Roman Catholic Cemetery is a cemetery for British residents who lived in Agra. Many prominent British residents were buried here, including John Hessing, a military officer who served with the Maratha Empire and died in 1803. The tomb is a smaller, red sandstone version of Taj Mahal.
Hessing's Tomb, Roman Catholic Cemetery
St John’s College was established in 1850. It is a Christian college and is one of India’s most prestigious colleges. The structure is a beautiful one. The college is a part of Agra University and offers both undergraduate and postgraduate courses.
St John's College
The Oberoi Amarvilas is a luxury hotel situated less than 1 km from Taj Mahal. It has Mughal palace designs, consisting of fountains, lawns, pools and pavilions. There are great views of Taj Mahal from the property. Guests can be taken to see Taj Mahal by golf cart. Food and Beverage options include Bellevue (for Italian food), Esphahan (for Mughal food), The Bar (for alcohol and spirits) and The Lounge (for tea). It is one of the most luxurious and exquisite hotels in India, and is a part of the palatial Vilas properties run by the Oberoi Group, along with Rajvilas in Jaipur, Udaivilas in Udaipur and Vanyavilas in Ranthambore.
Pavilion, The Oberoi Amarvilas
Chandelier, The Oberoi Amarvilas
Elephant Statue at the Entrance, The Oberoi Amarvilas
Trident Agra is situated about 1.5 km from Taj Mahal. The hotel has an outdoor pool, a business centre, a beauty salon, and restaurant and bar facilities. The hotel has a lot of beautiful artefacts on display near the lobby area.
Trident Agra
Buddha Head, Trident Agra
Wyndham Grand Agra is built on a large 18 acre property. The architecture has been inspired by the architecture of the Mughal era. The hotel has Mughal, Indian and continental dishes on offer at its various restaurants. It also has a spa and spa.
Wyndham Grand Agra
Lobby Chandelier, Wyndham Grand Agra
Agra also has some other top hotels. ITC Mughal is spread over 35 acres of land. It has multiple dining options, including Peshawri, a world famous reataurant specializing in food from the North West Frontier Province. It also has an outdoor pool and a spa. Taj Hotel and Convention Centre Agra has a spa, an infinity pool and multiple dining options, including Dawat-e-Nawab (known for its Indian delicacies) and The Latitude (for all day dining). Tajview boasts of an outdoor pool, a fitness centre and a spa. GAD Coffee Shop has Indian and international cuisines, Jhankar has traditional Indian meals, as well as live dance and music performances.

Very few cities in India can boast of the kind of history and heritage monuments that Agra has. Taj Mahal is certainly Agra's biggest attraction and draws millions of Indian and international visitors every year, but Agra has so much to offer by way of its other heritage monuments. Some of the hotels in Agra rank among India's best. Agra is also famous for its pethas (which are a local sweet), marble replicas, leather products and handicrafts. The monuments and hotels in Agra are maintained beautifully, but large parts of Agra are overcrowded, the city is notorious for its traffic jams and cleanliness levels need improvement. Despite its problems, Agra is one of India's most fascinating and splendid cities and is a must-see place for anyone visiting India.

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