My Visual Travel Experience: Tallinn (Estonia)

I've visited Helsinki many times over the past 15 years. I had always wanted to catch a ferry from there, and go and visit Tallinn, but somehow it had never happened. Then in July of this year, my wife Kamalini (who is a business coach and a student of Mindvalley University) had a workshop in Tallinn conducted by Mindvalley University, and we decided to make a holiday out of it! So our 7 year old son Rehaan and I joined her in Tallinn for 4 days at the end of a long vacation in France, and while Kamalini was busy with her workshop, Rehaan and I explored Tallinn extensively - Kamalini also got to see a bit of Tallinn before her workshop commenced!

We took the Eckeroline Ferry from Helsinki. The ferry-ride took 2.5 hours. We were very impressed by the large ferry, and its numerous facilities - several restaurants, gaming zones, a supermarket, shops, and a sundeck to enjoy views of the sea! That was a great start to our adventure in Tallinn. We stayed at Rija Old Town Hotel, situated in the historical old town. We couldn't have had a better location! It turned out to be a wonderful few days in Tallinn.

Old City Harbour

Tallinn, known as Reval from the 13th century till the first half of the 20th century, is the capital of Estonia, a small nation in northern Europe with 1.3 million inhabitants and an area of 45,000 square kilometers. The city has a population of over 430,000 (2021), and is Estonia’s largest city. It is situated just 80 km south of the Finnish capital, Helsinki, separated from it by the Gulf of Finland. 

In 1050 AD, a fortress was built on the hill of Toompea, now in central Tallinn. Denmark laid claim over the town in 1219 AD. From the 14th to the 16th century, Tallinn became an important trade hub, as the northernmost city of the Hanseatic League. The city converted from Catholicism to Lutheranism after the Protestant Reformation. In 1561, it became a part of Sweden. In 1710, Tallinn came under Russian rule, though it retained its cultural and economic autonomy.

In 1918, the Estonian Declaration of Independence was signed in Tallinn. It was however, under German imperial rule until the end of World War II later that year. It then became the capital of independent Estonia. In 1940, the three Baltic States of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania were annexed by the Soviet Union. They were then occupied by Nazi Germany from 1941 to 1944. Tallinn saw widespread destruction at the hands of the Soviets during those years of German occupation. After the Germans retreated in 1944, the Baltic States were again occupied by the Soviet Union. 

In 1991, after the break-up of the Soviet Union, Estonia once again became an independent nation, with Tallinn as its capital. Latvia and Lithuania also became independent countries, with Riga and Vilinus as their respective capitals. In 1997, the historical old town of Tallinn became a UNESCO World Heritage Site, for its magnificent medieval architecture. Today, Tallinn is a popular tourist destination, but it is also known as an important digital city, with a high number of start-ups. It is also the birth-place of some big high tech firms like Skype and Bolt.

The Town Hall is the centre of life in Tallinn. The building dates back to 1404. It has a slender octagonal tower, topped by a statue of Old Thomas, a legendary guard of the city. One can climb the narrow steps to get to the top, from where one gets great views of Tallinn. The Town Hall Museum has period costumes from the medieval ages.  It also has the Citizens’ Hall and the Council Hall.

Town Hall

Christ Motif, Town Hall

Medieval Costumes, Town Hall Museum

The Town Hall is located at Town Hall Square, a large pedestrian square, full of restaurants serving local cuisines, as well as Italian, Indian and other cuisines. In summer, the restaurants put out tables and chairs for their customers. Situated on Town Hall Square, one also has Town Hall Pharmacy, the oldest pharmacy in Europe still operating, dating back to 1422. 

Troika Restaurant, Town Hall Square

Tule Estonia Restaurant, Town Hall Square

Town Hall Pharmacy

St Olav’s Church, with its 124 meter spire, is the tallest church in Tallinn. The church was named after King Olav II of Norway. It was built in the early 16th century, and was among the tallest buildings in the world back then. In 1625, a fire burned down its spire. The church was hit by lightning several times over the next couple of centuries. In the 19th century, it was completely renovated. The church has an impressive vaulted ceiling, and offers visitors great views from the top.

St Olav's Church

Nave, St Olav's Church

Holy Spirit Church originally served as the Town Hall Chapel and was then converted into a church. In 1535, following the Reformation, the first sermons in Estonian were delivered here. The church has a whitewashed exterior, a medieval public clock on its façade, a Baroque tower, a Renaissance pulpit, a beautiful altar triptych (The Descent of the Holy Ghost), and many religious artifacts.

Holy Spirit Church

High Altar, Holy Spirit Church

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral was completed in 1900, and was commissioned by Tsar Alexander III of Russia. The Byzantine church is known for its onion domes and golden crosses. It has a number of mosaics and icons. The church is named after Alexander Nevsky (1219-1263), a Russian Duke who went on to be revered as a saint. He defeated the Livonian knights in 1242, and conquered a lot of Estonia.

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

Interior, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

Dome Church is the popular name of St Mary’s Cathedral. It is situated on Toompea Hill, close to Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. The church was originally built in 1240, but was subsequently expanded. In 1684, it suffered major damages in a fire, and had to be rebuilt. The spire was built in the 18th century. The church contains many tombs, as well as coats of arms hanging on the walls.

Dome Church

High Altar, Dome Church

Catholicism was popular in Estonia in the middle ages, but was replaced by Lutheranism after the Reformation in the 16th century. During Swedish rule, Catholicism was banned in Estonia, but it came back after Russia’s defeat of Sweden. Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul was consecrated in 1845. The cathedral underwent expansion in 1920-1924, and a major renovation in 2002-2003.

Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul

High Altar, Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul

Saint Nikolai Church is an Orthodox church completed in 1827. The church has two bell towers and a dome.

St Nikolai Church

Interior, St Nikolai Church

Saint John’s Church is a Lutheran parish church, dating back to 1867. The church is dedicated to St John the Evangelist, one of the followers of Christ. The church, with its tall spire and its yellow exterior, is situated on Freedom Square.

St John's Church

Nave, St John's Church

Tallinn City Museum was founded in 1937. It has interesting exhibits on the history of Tallinn. The exhibits include a model of Tallinn’s old town, a replica of the statue of Old Thomas (which stands atop the Town Hall), weaponry, religious artifacts, paintings, and relatively modern items like TVs, gramophones, radios from the 1970s and 1980s.

Model of Tallinn, Tallinn City Museum

Old Thomas, Tallinn City Museum

Medieval Kitchen, Tallinn City Museum

The Great Guild Hall was constructed in 1417. It was the meeting point of members of the Great Guild, who were wealthy merchants. Most festive processions in Tallinn start and end here. It is now also rented out for weddings and other such occasions. Inside, there are interesting exhibits showcasing historical artifacts like stone age objects, weapons, and jewellery. There are also exhibits on wine making and modern day costumes.

Facade, Great Guild Hall

Armours, Great Guild Hall

Cannon, Great Guild Hall

Niguliste Museum was a 13th century church dedicated to St Nicholas. It now serves as a museum featuring medieval religious artworks. Most of Tallinn’s medieval artworks were destroyed in the Reformation riots in 1524, but the artworks inside Niguliste Museum survived.

Niguliste Museum

The Estonian Maritime Museum is housed inside Fat Margaret Tower. The tower has its name because it was the thickest part of the city’s fortifications, with 4 meter thick walls. The tower served as a prison at one stage. Today it houses the Estonian Maritime Museum, spread over 4 floors. The museum has models of ships, a large cog, sailors’ costumes, navigation equipment, and a scale model of the Estonia, a ferry that sank in 1994, killing 852 people on board.

Estonian Maritime Museum,
Fat Margaret Tower

Captain's Uniform,
Estonian Maritime Museum

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design is housed inside a 17th century granary. It features exhibits showcasing the best in Estonian design from the early 20th century to current times. The highlights include furniture, costumes, textiles, porcelain, paintings, and sculpture.

First Steps,
Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design

Tallinn,
Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design

Viru Gate is one of the gates to the old town. It was a part of the 14th century city fortifications.

Viru Gate

The Long Leg Gate Tower is one of the gates connecting the Lower Town to the Upper Town. It is a medieval gate dating back to the 14th century. There is another, smaller tower too - the Short Leg Gate Tower.

Long Leg Gate Tower

The Tourist Information Centre is situated close to the Town Hall. It has extremely helpful staff, loads of information brochures, and walking tours where the guides talk at length about the town, its history, and its folklore.

Tourist Information Centre

Tallinn has a Trolley Train that takes visitors around the city centre, past most of the city’s main landmarks. A favourite with children! 

Trolley Train

The Three Sisters is a five star hotel situated in the old town.  The façade has three adjoining structures connected to each other, each with a pointed roof. The architecture blends in beautifully with that of  the old town. The small boutique hotel has just 23 rooms, but it is known for its luxurious accommodation.

The Three Sisters

Tallinn is a food lover's paradise! Olde Hansa Restaurant is one of the most popular restaurants, and is situated near the Town Hall. The restaurant has an atmosphere from medieval times, with waiters and waitresses wearing period costumes. The menu has a medieval look and feel, the walls have mosaics showcasing life in the medieval ages, and there is also a staff member, dressed in medieval costumes, calling the attention of passers-by and getting them to visit the restaurant.

Olde Hansa Restaurant

Grilled Chicken, Olde Hansa Restaurant

There are many other popular restaurants in the old town. Traditional Estonian cuisine includes exotic meats like wild boar, elk, and even bear! Popular restaurants in the old town include Tule Estonia, Troika and Bella Ciao on Old Town Square, Peppersack situated opposite Olde Estonia, and Margherita situated next to Long Leg Gate.

Chicken Escalopes, Tule Estonia Restaurant

Tallinn was marvelous, and really exceeded my expectations. The stunning architecture of the old town was spectacular. The churches, the museums, and the restaurants were excellent. People were very friendly. Little Rehaan loved the fact that so much of the old town was pedestrian - I rented a bicycle for him, and he enjoyed riding his cycle up and down without worrying about cars speeding down! I got him a German Shepherd stuffed toy, which he immediately called an Estonian Shepherd! Kamalini had a successful workshop with Mindvalley University. She got to make some friends from the Mindvalley group, plus she got to meet up with some of its very senior members like Vishen Lakhiani and Ajit Nawalkha. All in all, it was a great visit for all three of us!

My Visual Travel Experience: Rouen (France)

In June 2022, I spent a day in Rouen with my wife Kamalini and our 7 year old son Rehaan. What took us to Rouen was certainly the famous Rouen Cathedral, brought alive by the artist Claude Monet in many of his paintings. Little Rehaan is fascinated by the world's tallest buildings, and just needs a small prod to rattle off the world's tallest buildings from the Great Pyramids in 2500 BC to Burj Khalifa in current times; Rouen Cathedral was once the world's tallest building, albeit for just a short period! 

We drove down to Rouen from Giverny, Earlier, we had rented a car for a few days in Paris. In Rouen, we didn't need the car, and we didn't need public transport either. The centre of Rouen - the area around Rouen Cathedral - is quite compact, and largely pedestrian, and it was easy for us to walk around and explore the town's main landmarks. Restaurants and cafes were everywhere, so that made life easier!

Rouen is a town in Normandy in northern France, situated about 130 kilometers northwest of Paris. It lies along the River Seine, and has a population of over 110,000 (2019). In the medieval ages, it was one of the largest and most prosperous towns in Europe, thanks to its textile factories and river trade.

In the 9th century, the Normans took over Rouen, which had been founded centuries earlier by Gaulish tribes. From 912 AD onwards, Rouen was the capital of the Duchy of Normandy. In the 13th century, King Philip II Augustus of France entered Rouen and annexed Normandy. In 1419, Rouen surrendered to Henry V of England. Joan of Arc fought valiantly against the English, before being burned at the stake in 1431. King Charles VII of France recaptured the town in 1449, and brought it back under French rule. 

Rouen was badly damaged in allied bombings in World War II, and major restoration work was required. Today, the town stands firmly as an important historical and cultural centre in France, due to its association with Joan of Arc, and due to the architectural magnificence of sights like Rouen Cathedral and Le Gros Horloge.

Rouen Cathedral, the popular name for Cathedrale Notre Dame de Rouen, was built over many centuries. In 395 AD, a church was built at the site of the present church. In 650 AD, the cathedral was enlarged by St Ouen. In the 9th century, it was extensively damaged by the Vikings. In 950 AD, the Viking leader Richard I of Normandy further enlarged the cathedral. In 1023, the church was consecrated after being rebuilt in Romanesque style. 

Facade, Rouen Cathedral

Main Portal, Rouen Cathedral

Nave, Rouen Cathedral

In 1145, work began on building the church in Gothic style. Over the centuries, the church was damaged by fire (in 1200 and in 1822) and by a hurricane (in 1683), but was renovated each time. In 1882, the 151 meter tall spire of the church was completed. Earlier, from 1876 to 1880, the church was the world’s tallest building, until the completion of Cologne Cathedral. The cathedral was damaged in World War II, but it was again renovated. 

Spires, Rouen Cathedral

Organ, Rouen Cathedral

Stairs, Rouen Cathedral

The cathedral inspired Claude Monet to paint several canvases, which further popularized it. The west front of the cathedral has three intricately carved portals. The cathedral is also famous for its three towers – the Saint Roman Tower from the 12th century, the Butter Tower from the 15th century, and the Lantern Tower (completed in 1882). The cathedral also has a tomb that has the heart of Richard the Lion Hearted (who died in 1199).

Chapel of Saint Sacrement, Rouen Cathedral

Chapel of Saint Margaret, Rouen Cathedral

Le Gros Horloge is a 14th century astronomical clock. The clock is a part of a Renaissance arch. The façade represents a golden sun with 24 rays. The diameter of the dial is 2.5 meters. The mechanism is one of the oldest in France. The clock was moved to its present location in 1529.

Le Gros Gorloge

Side facing Rouen Cathedral, Le Gros Horloge

Palais de Justice was completed in 1507. It is one of the architectural highlights of Rouen. It served as the Parliament of Nomandy under Francois I. It was later turned into a courthouse after the French Revolution. 

Palais de Justice

Hotel de Ville de Rouen is the town hall, and has been since 1800. Previously, the building housed the monks of the Saint Ouen Abbey.

Hotel de Ville de Rouen

Abbatiale Saint Ouen is a twin towered Gothic church named after a 7th century bishop of Rouen. The church was completed in the 15th century. It is well known for its stain glass panels, and its large organ.

Abbatiale Saint Ouen

Eglise Saint Maclou is a 15th century church constructed in the flamboyant architectural style. The spire has a height of 83 meters. The church was badly damaged in World War II by bombings, but was subsequently restored.

Eglise Saint Maclou

Vieux Marche is the old marketplace, where one can but meat, fish, cheese, fruits, vegetables, and other agricultural produce. Place du Vieux Marche is the square around the marketplace, and it is well known for its beautiful medieval buildings.

Place du Vieux Marche

Varieties of Cheese on Sale, Vieux Marche

Eglise Sainte Jeanne d’Arc is a modern church completed in 1979, dedicated to Joan of Arc. The church is situated at Vieux Marche, where the legendary saint was burned at the stake for heresy in 1431. A small garden marks the exact spot where she was burned. The sweeping curves of the structure are supposed to symbolize flames. The church has various statues and busts of Joan of Arc, and it also has several famous stain glass windows, which were shifted from the Church of St Vincent, which was destroyed in 1944 in World War II.

Eglise Sainte Jeanne d'Arc

Stain Glass, Eglise Sainte Jeanne d'Arc

Sculpture of Sainte Jeanne d'Arc,
Eglise Sainte Jeanne d'Arc

Historial Jeanne d’Arc is a museum dedicated to Joan of Arc. In addition to statues and paintings, the unique museum has fascinating digital and multimedia displays narrating the story of Joan of Arc from her childhood to her martyrdom. Born in 1912, she helped fight the English, and she was close to King Charles III. She claimed to have visions of Archangel Michael and others. She was accused of heresy and burned at the stake in 1931. In 1456, a court reinvestigated Joan’s trial and overturned the verdict. She has subsequently been revered as a martyr. In 1920, she was canonizedby the Roman Catholic Church and declared one of the patron saints of France.

Courtyard, Historial Jeanne d'Arc

Equestrian Statue of Jeanne d'Arc,
Historial Sainte Jeanne d'Arc

Sculpture of Jeanne d'Arc,
Historial Jeanne d'Arc

Musee des Beaux Arts de Rouen is an art museum established by Napoleon Bonaparte in 1801. The present building was completed in 1888. The museum has European art from the 16th century to the 20th century. Some of the artists whose works are displayed include Veronese, Carvaggio, Van Dyck, Rubens, Boucher, Fragonard, Degas, Delacroix, Gericault, Ingres, Monet, Pissarro, Renoir and Sisley.

Musee des Beaux Arts de Rouen

Founded in 1920, Musee le Secq des Tournelles is a museum of ironwork bequeathed by Henri Le Secq Tournelles (1854-1925). It includes locks, tools, jewellery, and other objects made out of iron. It is situated inside the St Lawrence Church, a 15th century church with a prominent bell tower.

Musee le Secq des Tournelles

Rouen has a Trolley Car that takes visitors around the historical centre. There is commentary available in various different languages, so that visitors know what all sights they are seeing.

Trolley Car

I found Rouen to be a very charming and attractive town. Rouen Cathedral was grand and magnificent, but the other landmarks were very beautiful too. Le Gros Horloge reminded me of Bern's famous Zytglogge. Rouen also made the legendary history of Joan of Arc come alive - there's no better town to learn about the revered saint. The overall vibe of the town was impressive. I did feel like I was transported to another era, several centuries back. All in all, a very worthwhile visit!