Friday, September 16, 2022

My Visual Travel Experience: Tallinn (Estonia)

I've visited Helsinki many times over the past 15 years. I had always wanted to catch a ferry from there, and go and visit Tallinn, but somehow it had never happened. Then in July of this year, my wife Kamalini (who is a business coach and a student of Mindvalley University) had a workshop in Tallinn conducted by Mindvalley University, and we decided to make a holiday out of it! So our 7 year old son Rehaan and I joined her in Tallinn for 4 days at the end of a long vacation in France, and while Kamalini was busy with her workshop, Rehaan and I explored Tallinn extensively - Kamalini also got to see a bit of Tallinn before her workshop commenced!

We took the Eckeroline Ferry from Helsinki. The ferry-ride took 2.5 hours. We were very impressed by the large ferry, and its numerous facilities - several restaurants, gaming zones, a supermarket, shops, and a sundeck to enjoy views of the sea! That was a great start to our adventure in Tallinn. We stayed at Rija Old Town Hotel, situated in the historical old town. We couldn't have had a better location! It turned out to be a wonderful few days in Tallinn.

Old City Harbour

Tallinn, known as Reval from the 13th century till the first half of the 20th century, is the capital of Estonia, a small nation in northern Europe with 1.3 million inhabitants and an area of 45,000 square kilometers. The city has a population of over 430,000 (2021), and is Estonia’s largest city. It is situated just 80 km south of the Finnish capital, Helsinki, separated from it by the Gulf of Finland. 

In 1050 AD, a fortress was built on the hill of Toompea, now in central Tallinn. Denmark laid claim over the town in 1219 AD. From the 14th to the 16th century, Tallinn became an important trade hub, as the northernmost city of the Hanseatic League. The city converted from Catholicism to Lutheranism after the Protestant Reformation. In 1561, it became a part of Sweden. In 1710, Tallinn came under Russian rule, though it retained its cultural and economic autonomy.

In 1918, the Estonian Declaration of Independence was signed in Tallinn. It was however, under German imperial rule until the end of World War II later that year. It then became the capital of independent Estonia. In 1940, the three Baltic States of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania were annexed by the Soviet Union. They were then occupied by Nazi Germany from 1941 to 1944. Tallinn saw widespread destruction at the hands of the Soviets during those years of German occupation. After the Germans retreated in 1944, the Baltic States were again occupied by the Soviet Union. 

In 1991, after the break-up of the Soviet Union, Estonia once again became an independent nation, with Tallinn as its capital. Latvia and Lithuania also became independent countries, with Riga and Vilinus as their respective capitals. In 1997, the historical old town of Tallinn became a UNESCO World Heritage Site, for its magnificent medieval architecture. Today, Tallinn is a popular tourist destination, but it is also known as an important digital city, with a high number of start-ups. It is also the birth-place of some big high tech firms like Skype and Bolt.

The Town Hall is the centre of life in Tallinn. The building dates back to 1404. It has a slender octagonal tower, topped by a statue of Old Thomas, a legendary guard of the city. One can climb the narrow steps to get to the top, from where one gets great views of Tallinn. The Town Hall Museum has period costumes from the medieval ages.  It also has the Citizens’ Hall and the Council Hall.

Town Hall

Christ Motif, Town Hall

Medieval Costumes, Town Hall Museum

The Town Hall is located at Town Hall Square, a large pedestrian square, full of restaurants serving local cuisines, as well as Italian, Indian and other cuisines. In summer, the restaurants put out tables and chairs for their customers. Situated on Town Hall Square, one also has Town Hall Pharmacy, the oldest pharmacy in Europe still operating, dating back to 1422. 

Troika Restaurant, Town Hall Square

Tule Estonia Restaurant, Town Hall Square

Town Hall Pharmacy

St Olav’s Church, with its 124 meter spire, is the tallest church in Tallinn. The church was named after King Olav II of Norway. It was built in the early 16th century, and was among the tallest buildings in the world back then. In 1625, a fire burned down its spire. The church was hit by lightning several times over the next couple of centuries. In the 19th century, it was completely renovated. The church has an impressive vaulted ceiling, and offers visitors great views from the top.

St Olav's Church

Nave, St Olav's Church

Holy Spirit Church originally served as the Town Hall Chapel and was then converted into a church. In 1535, following the Reformation, the first sermons in Estonian were delivered here. The church has a whitewashed exterior, a medieval public clock on its façade, a Baroque tower, a Renaissance pulpit, a beautiful altar triptych (The Descent of the Holy Ghost), and many religious artifacts.

Holy Spirit Church

High Altar, Holy Spirit Church

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral was completed in 1900, and was commissioned by Tsar Alexander III of Russia. The Byzantine church is known for its onion domes and golden crosses. It has a number of mosaics and icons. The church is named after Alexander Nevsky (1219-1263), a Russian Duke who went on to be revered as a saint. He defeated the Livonian knights in 1242, and conquered a lot of Estonia.

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

Interior, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

Dome Church is the popular name of St Mary’s Cathedral. It is situated on Toompea Hill, close to Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. The church was originally built in 1240, but was subsequently expanded. In 1684, it suffered major damages in a fire, and had to be rebuilt. The spire was built in the 18th century. The church contains many tombs, as well as coats of arms hanging on the walls.

Dome Church

High Altar, Dome Church

Catholicism was popular in Estonia in the middle ages, but was replaced by Lutheranism after the Reformation in the 16th century. During Swedish rule, Catholicism was banned in Estonia, but it came back after Russia’s defeat of Sweden. Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul was consecrated in 1845. The cathedral underwent expansion in 1920-1924, and a major renovation in 2002-2003.

Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul

High Altar, Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul

Saint Nikolai Church is an Orthodox church completed in 1827. The church has two bell towers and a dome.

St Nikolai Church

Interior, St Nikolai Church

Saint John’s Church is a Lutheran parish church, dating back to 1867. The church is dedicated to St John the Evangelist, one of the followers of Christ. The church, with its tall spire and its yellow exterior, is situated on Freedom Square.

St John's Church

Nave, St John's Church

Tallinn City Museum was founded in 1937. It has interesting exhibits on the history of Tallinn. The exhibits include a model of Tallinn’s old town, a replica of the statue of Old Thomas (which stands atop the Town Hall), weaponry, religious artifacts, paintings, and relatively modern items like TVs, gramophones, radios from the 1970s and 1980s.

Model of Tallinn, Tallinn City Museum

Old Thomas, Tallinn City Museum

Medieval Kitchen, Tallinn City Museum

The Great Guild Hall was constructed in 1417. It was the meeting point of members of the Great Guild, who were wealthy merchants. Most festive processions in Tallinn start and end here. It is now also rented out for weddings and other such occasions. Inside, there are interesting exhibits showcasing historical artifacts like stone age objects, weapons, and jewellery. There are also exhibits on wine making and modern day costumes.

Facade, Great Guild Hall

Armours, Great Guild Hall

Cannon, Great Guild Hall

Niguliste Museum was a 13th century church dedicated to St Nicholas. It now serves as a museum featuring medieval religious artworks. Most of Tallinn’s medieval artworks were destroyed in the Reformation riots in 1524, but the artworks inside Niguliste Museum survived.

Niguliste Museum

The Estonian Maritime Museum is housed inside Fat Margaret Tower. The tower has its name because it was the thickest part of the city’s fortifications, with 4 meter thick walls. The tower served as a prison at one stage. Today it houses the Estonian Maritime Museum, spread over 4 floors. The museum has models of ships, a large cog, sailors’ costumes, navigation equipment, and a scale model of the Estonia, a ferry that sank in 1994, killing 852 people on board.

Estonian Maritime Museum,
Fat Margaret Tower

Captain's Uniform,
Estonian Maritime Museum

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design is housed inside a 17th century granary. It features exhibits showcasing the best in Estonian design from the early 20th century to current times. The highlights include furniture, costumes, textiles, porcelain, paintings, and sculpture.

First Steps,
Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design

Tallinn,
Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design

Viru Gate is one of the gates to the old town. It was a part of the 14th century city fortifications.

Viru Gate

The Long Leg Gate Tower is one of the gates connecting the Lower Town to the Upper Town. It is a medieval gate dating back to the 14th century. There is another, smaller tower too - the Short Leg Gate Tower.

Long Leg Gate Tower

The Tourist Information Centre is situated close to the Town Hall. It has extremely helpful staff, loads of information brochures, and walking tours where the guides talk at length about the town, its history, and its folklore.

Tourist Information Centre

Tallinn has a Trolley Train that takes visitors around the city centre, past most of the city’s main landmarks. A favourite with children! 

Trolley Train

The Three Sisters is a five star hotel situated in the old town.  The façade has three adjoining structures connected to each other, each with a pointed roof. The architecture blends in beautifully with that of  the old town. The small boutique hotel has just 23 rooms, but it is known for its luxurious accommodation.

The Three Sisters

Tallinn is a food lover's paradise! Olde Hansa Restaurant is one of the most popular restaurants, and is situated near the Town Hall. The restaurant has an atmosphere from medieval times, with waiters and waitresses wearing period costumes. The menu has a medieval look and feel, the walls have mosaics showcasing life in the medieval ages, and there is also a staff member, dressed in medieval costumes, calling the attention of passers-by and getting them to visit the restaurant.

Olde Hansa Restaurant

Grilled Chicken, Olde Hansa Restaurant

There are many other popular restaurants in the old town. Traditional Estonian cuisine includes exotic meats like wild boar, elk, and even bear! Popular restaurants in the old town include Tule Estonia, Troika and Bella Ciao on Old Town Square, Peppersack situated opposite Olde Estonia, and Margherita situated next to Long Leg Gate.

Chicken Escalopes, Tule Estonia Restaurant

Tallinn was marvelous, and really exceeded my expectations. The stunning architecture of the old town was spectacular. The churches, the museums, and the restaurants were excellent. People were very friendly. Little Rehaan loved the fact that so much of the old town was pedestrian - I rented a bicycle for him, and he enjoyed riding his cycle up and down without worrying about cars speeding down! I got him a German Shepherd stuffed toy, which he immediately called an Estonian Shepherd! Kamalini had a successful workshop with Mindvalley University. She got to make some friends from the Mindvalley group, plus she got to meet up with some of its very senior members like Vishen Lakhiani and Ajit Nawalkha. All in all, it was a great visit for all three of us!

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