My Visual Travel Experience: Rouen (France)

In June 2022, I spent a day in Rouen with my wife Kamalini and our 7 year old son Rehaan. What took us to Rouen was certainly the famous Rouen Cathedral, brought alive by the artist Claude Monet in many of his paintings. Little Rehaan is fascinated by the world's tallest buildings, and just needs a small prod to rattle off the world's tallest buildings from the Great Pyramids in 2500 BC to Burj Khalifa in current times; Rouen Cathedral was once the world's tallest building, albeit for just a short period! 

We drove down to Rouen from Giverny, Earlier, we had rented a car for a few days in Paris. In Rouen, we didn't need the car, and we didn't need public transport either. The centre of Rouen - the area around Rouen Cathedral - is quite compact, and largely pedestrian, and it was easy for us to walk around and explore the town's main landmarks. Restaurants and cafes were everywhere, so that made life easier!

Rouen is a town in Normandy in northern France, situated about 130 kilometers northwest of Paris. It lies along the River Seine, and has a population of over 110,000 (2019). In the medieval ages, it was one of the largest and most prosperous towns in Europe, thanks to its textile factories and river trade.

In the 9th century, the Normans took over Rouen, which had been founded centuries earlier by Gaulish tribes. From 912 AD onwards, Rouen was the capital of the Duchy of Normandy. In the 13th century, King Philip II Augustus of France entered Rouen and annexed Normandy. In 1419, Rouen surrendered to Henry V of England. Joan of Arc fought valiantly against the English, before being burned at the stake in 1431. King Charles VII of France recaptured the town in 1449, and brought it back under French rule. 

Rouen was badly damaged in allied bombings in World War II, and major restoration work was required. Today, the town stands firmly as an important historical and cultural centre in France, due to its association with Joan of Arc, and due to the architectural magnificence of sights like Rouen Cathedral and Le Gros Horloge.

Rouen Cathedral, the popular name for Cathedrale Notre Dame de Rouen, was built over many centuries. In 395 AD, a church was built at the site of the present church. In 650 AD, the cathedral was enlarged by St Ouen. In the 9th century, it was extensively damaged by the Vikings. In 950 AD, the Viking leader Richard I of Normandy further enlarged the cathedral. In 1023, the church was consecrated after being rebuilt in Romanesque style. 

Facade, Rouen Cathedral

Main Portal, Rouen Cathedral

Nave, Rouen Cathedral

In 1145, work began on building the church in Gothic style. Over the centuries, the church was damaged by fire (in 1200 and in 1822) and by a hurricane (in 1683), but was renovated each time. In 1882, the 151 meter tall spire of the church was completed. Earlier, from 1876 to 1880, the church was the world’s tallest building, until the completion of Cologne Cathedral. The cathedral was damaged in World War II, but it was again renovated. 

Spires, Rouen Cathedral

Organ, Rouen Cathedral

Stairs, Rouen Cathedral

The cathedral inspired Claude Monet to paint several canvases, which further popularized it. The west front of the cathedral has three intricately carved portals. The cathedral is also famous for its three towers – the Saint Roman Tower from the 12th century, the Butter Tower from the 15th century, and the Lantern Tower (completed in 1882). The cathedral also has a tomb that has the heart of Richard the Lion Hearted (who died in 1199).

Chapel of Saint Sacrement, Rouen Cathedral

Chapel of Saint Margaret, Rouen Cathedral

Le Gros Horloge is a 14th century astronomical clock. The clock is a part of a Renaissance arch. The façade represents a golden sun with 24 rays. The diameter of the dial is 2.5 meters. The mechanism is one of the oldest in France. The clock was moved to its present location in 1529.

Le Gros Gorloge

Side facing Rouen Cathedral, Le Gros Horloge

Palais de Justice was completed in 1507. It is one of the architectural highlights of Rouen. It served as the Parliament of Nomandy under Francois I. It was later turned into a courthouse after the French Revolution. 

Palais de Justice

Hotel de Ville de Rouen is the town hall, and has been since 1800. Previously, the building housed the monks of the Saint Ouen Abbey.

Hotel de Ville de Rouen

Abbatiale Saint Ouen is a twin towered Gothic church named after a 7th century bishop of Rouen. The church was completed in the 15th century. It is well known for its stain glass panels, and its large organ.

Abbatiale Saint Ouen

Eglise Saint Maclou is a 15th century church constructed in the flamboyant architectural style. The spire has a height of 83 meters. The church was badly damaged in World War II by bombings, but was subsequently restored.

Eglise Saint Maclou

Vieux Marche is the old marketplace, where one can but meat, fish, cheese, fruits, vegetables, and other agricultural produce. Place du Vieux Marche is the square around the marketplace, and it is well known for its beautiful medieval buildings.

Place du Vieux Marche

Varieties of Cheese on Sale, Vieux Marche

Eglise Sainte Jeanne d’Arc is a modern church completed in 1979, dedicated to Joan of Arc. The church is situated at Vieux Marche, where the legendary saint was burned at the stake for heresy in 1431. A small garden marks the exact spot where she was burned. The sweeping curves of the structure are supposed to symbolize flames. The church has various statues and busts of Joan of Arc, and it also has several famous stain glass windows, which were shifted from the Church of St Vincent, which was destroyed in 1944 in World War II.

Eglise Sainte Jeanne d'Arc

Stain Glass, Eglise Sainte Jeanne d'Arc

Sculpture of Sainte Jeanne d'Arc,
Eglise Sainte Jeanne d'Arc

Historial Jeanne d’Arc is a museum dedicated to Joan of Arc. In addition to statues and paintings, the unique museum has fascinating digital and multimedia displays narrating the story of Joan of Arc from her childhood to her martyrdom. Born in 1912, she helped fight the English, and she was close to King Charles III. She claimed to have visions of Archangel Michael and others. She was accused of heresy and burned at the stake in 1931. In 1456, a court reinvestigated Joan’s trial and overturned the verdict. She has subsequently been revered as a martyr. In 1920, she was canonizedby the Roman Catholic Church and declared one of the patron saints of France.

Courtyard, Historial Jeanne d'Arc

Equestrian Statue of Jeanne d'Arc,
Historial Sainte Jeanne d'Arc

Sculpture of Jeanne d'Arc,
Historial Jeanne d'Arc

Musee des Beaux Arts de Rouen is an art museum established by Napoleon Bonaparte in 1801. The present building was completed in 1888. The museum has European art from the 16th century to the 20th century. Some of the artists whose works are displayed include Veronese, Carvaggio, Van Dyck, Rubens, Boucher, Fragonard, Degas, Delacroix, Gericault, Ingres, Monet, Pissarro, Renoir and Sisley.

Musee des Beaux Arts de Rouen

Founded in 1920, Musee le Secq des Tournelles is a museum of ironwork bequeathed by Henri Le Secq Tournelles (1854-1925). It includes locks, tools, jewellery, and other objects made out of iron. It is situated inside the St Lawrence Church, a 15th century church with a prominent bell tower.

Musee le Secq des Tournelles

Rouen has a Trolley Car that takes visitors around the historical centre. There is commentary available in various different languages, so that visitors know what all sights they are seeing.

Trolley Car

I found Rouen to be a very charming and attractive town. Rouen Cathedral was grand and magnificent, but the other landmarks were very beautiful too. Le Gros Horloge reminded me of Bern's famous Zytglogge. Rouen also made the legendary history of Joan of Arc come alive - there's no better town to learn about the revered saint. The overall vibe of the town was impressive. I did feel like I was transported to another era, several centuries back. All in all, a very worthwhile visit!