My Visual Travel Experience: Agra

I have visited Agra on many occasions, and I have spent a cumulative of around 2 weeks in the city. In 1975, my parents took me and my two elder sisters there. As a two year old, I was more interested in chasing squirrels than in seeing Taj Mahal! In 1992, I went to Agra with three of my very close buddies, two from my neighbourhood and one from my college. It was a morning-evening trip from Delhi, and we went on a guided tour in a coach. In 1996, my work in sales and distribution took me to Agra. In 2003, my work again took me to Agra and I also managed to visit Taj Mahal with a colleague and close friend. In 2006, my company had a sales conference in Agra, and we stayed in luxury at ITC Mughal. In 2007, I drove down to Agra with my elder sister and her German friend who was visiting from Bremen; my sister and she had been in college together years earlier. We stayed at Trident Agra, and we explored the city quite thoroughly.

In 2011, my then girlfriend, who I went on to marry later that year, took me to Agra without telling me where we were going or what her plan was. She just told me she was whisking me away for two days, and she had secretly planned out a lovely weekend there. We stayed in regal style at The Oberoi Amarvilas and we saw Taj Mahal on a full-moon night! In 2013, my wife and I again visited Agra to tie up with The Oberoi Amarvilas for our souvenir products. We drove down from Delhi-NCR on the world class Yamuna Express Highway, which got us to Agra in the flash of an eye. We stayed at Wyndham Grand Hotel, and saw sights of Agra well beyond the few sights that most people end up seeing, including some that were new for me. So Agra is certainly not just about Taj Mahal and there is undoubtedly a lot more to savour in this historic city, which was the capital of the Mughal Empire for many years!

Agra is situated in the North Indian state of Uttar Pradesh and has a population of 1.5 million (as per the 2011 census). It lies along the Yamuna River and is just over 200 km south of Delhi. It is one of India’s most popular tourist destinations because of the presence of Taj Mahal, one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. Taj Mahal, Agra Fort and Fatehpur Sikri are all UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Akbar’s Tomb in Sikandra and Tomb of Itmad-ud-Daulah are also popular attractions. Along with Delhi and Jaipur, Agra is a part of the Golden Triangle, one of India’s most popular tourist circuits.

Sikandar Lodi moved his capital from Delhi to Agra in 1504. After his death in 1517, his son Ibrahim Lodi ruled from Agra. He was defeated by Babur in the Battle of Panipat in 1526, which ended the Delhi Sultanate and ushered in Mughal rule in India. Babur’s son, Humayun, ruled from Delhi but Humayun’s son, Akbar, made Agra his capital. Agra was the capital of the Mughal Empire from 1558 till 1648 under three successive Mughal emperors, namely Akbar, his son Jahangir, and his grandson Shahjahan. Akbar built  a new city, Fatehpur Sikri, on the outskirts of Agra in 1571. Shahjahan commissioned Taj Mahal in 1632 in memory of his wife, Mumtaz Mahal. The magnificent memorial was completed in 1653. In 1648, Shahjahan moved his capital from Agra to Shahjahanabad in Delhi, but Aurangzeb moved the capital back to Agra and imprisoned his father.

After the death of Aurangzeb in 1707, the Mughal Empire went into gradual decline. The Marathas took over the city. It then became a part of the British Raj in 1803. Apart from a brief period during the 1857 rebellion against the British, Agra remained a part of the British Raj until India got its independence in 1947.

Taj Mahal was commissioned in 1632 by Emperor Shahjahan to house the tomb of his wife Mumtaz Mahal. It was completed in 1653. Shahjahan was deposed by his son Aurangzeb in 1658. After his death in 1666, Shahjahan was also buried there. Taj Mahal is a white marble mausoleum. It lies in a 42 acre complex which has a mosque, a guest house and a sprawling garden. In 1983, Taj Mahal was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

Taj Mahal

Entrance Gateway, Taj Mahal

The dome of Taj Mahal has a height of 35 meters. Each of the four minarets surrounding the mausoleum has a height of 40 meters. The main hall has copies of the tombs of Mumtaz Mahal and Shahjahan. The actual tombs are at a lower level.

Entrance to the Tomb, Taj Mahal

Koranic Verses, Taj Mahal

Floral Motifs, Taj Mahal

Agra Fort is an ancient fort. When Sikandar Lodi shifted his capital from Delhi to Agra in 1504, he constructed some structures inside it. After the Battle of Panipat in 1526, the fort came under the control of the Mughals. In 1530, Humayun was crowned Emperor inside the fort. Agra Fort underwent major changes during the reign of Akbar, which lasted from 1556 to 1605. Akbar made Agra his capital in 1558. The refurbished Agra Fort was completed in 1573.

Khas Mahal and Angoori Bagh, Agra Fort

Khas Mahal Interior, Agra Fort

Jahangir's Palace, Agra Fort

Jahangir's Hauz, Agra Fort

Agra Fort is spread over an area of 94 acres and has a semi-circular plan. Some of Agra Fort’s notable landmarks include Jahangir’s Hauz (a monolithic tank used for bathing), Musamman Burj (an octagonal structure used for sun worship), Jahangir’s Palace, Diwan-i-Aam, Khas Mahal, Nagina Masjid, the Black Marble Throne of Jahangir, the White Marble Throne of Jahangir and Roshanara Mahal (named after Shahjahan's daughter).

Musamman Burj, Agra Fort

Interior of Nagina Masjid, Agra Fort

Jahangir's Throne made of Black Marble, Agra Fort

Roshanara Mahal, Agra Fort

Fatehpur Sikri lies just outside the city of Agra and was founded as the capital of the Mughal Empire by Akbar in 1571, and served that role till 1585. It was completely abandoned in 1610. Highlights of Fatehpur Sikri include Bulund Darwaza (a 55 meter tall gateway to the complex), Jama Masjid (a congregational mosque), Tomb of Salim Chishti (the renowned Sufi saint) and Tomb of Islam Khan (the grandson of Salim Chishti).

Bulund Darwaza, Fatehpur Sikri

Jama Masjid, Fatehpur Sikri

The town of  Fatehpur Sikri has a population of just over 32,000 (as per the 2011 census) and it lies about 35 km west of Agra.

Tomb of Salim Chishti, Fatehpur Sikri

Tomb of Islam Khan, Fatehpur Sikri

Graves, Fatehpur Sikri

Akbar’s Tomb is situated in Sikandra, a suburb of Agra. Akbar died in 1605. His son and heir, Jahangir, had the tomb built between 1605 and 1613. It is built on 119 acres of ground. The south gate is the largest and most imposing of the mausoleum’s gates. The building is made from red sandstone. The hall has a copy of Akbar’s tomb. The real tomb lies in the basement.  

Akbar's Tomb, Sikandra

Entrance of Akbar's Tomb, Sikandra

Akbar’s Tomb was ransacked and looted  by the Jats during the reign of Aurangzeb. The Viceroy of India, Lord Curzon, had extensive repairs and renovation done, which were completed in 1905, and this restored the mausoleum to its former glory.

Motifs at the Gateway of Akbar's Tomb, Sikandra

Interior of Akbar's Tomb, Sikandra

Replica of Akbar's Grave at Akbar's Tomb, Sikandra

Tomb of Itmad-ud-Daulah is the final resting place of Mirza Ghiyas Beg, also called Itmad-ud-Daulah. He was the father of Jahangir’s wife, Nur Jehan. He died in 1622 and the mausoleum was completed in 1628. The white marble mausoleum with detailed inlay work is considered a draft of Taj Mahal. It is often called “Jewel Box” because of its shape.

Itmad-ud-Daulah

Window, Itmad-ud-Daulah

Floral Motif, Itmad-ud-Daulah

Roman Catholic Cemetery is a cemetery for British residents who lived in Agra. Many prominent British residents were buried here, including John Hessing, a military officer who served with the Maratha Empire and died in 1803. The tomb is a smaller, red sandstone version of Taj Mahal.

Hessing's Tomb, Roman Catholic Cemetery

St John’s College was established in 1850. It is a Christian college and is one of India’s most prestigious colleges. The structure is a beautiful one. The college is a part of Agra University and offers both undergraduate and postgraduate courses.

St John's College

The Oberoi Amarvilas is a luxury hotel situated less than 1 km from Taj Mahal. It has Mughal palace designs, consisting of fountains, lawns, pools and pavilions. There are great views of Taj Mahal from the property. Guests can be taken to see Taj Mahal by golf cart. Food and Beverage options include Bellevue (for Italian food), Esphahan (for Mughal food), The Bar (for alcohol and spirits) and The Lounge (for tea). It is one of the most luxurious and exquisite hotels in India, and is a part of the palatial Vilas properties run by the Oberoi Group, along with Rajvilas in Jaipur, Udaivilas in Udaipur and Vanyavilas in Ranthambore.

Pavilion, The Oberoi Amarvilas

Chandelier, The Oberoi Amarvilas

Elephant Statue at the Entrance, The Oberoi Amarvilas

Trident Agra is situated about 1.5 km from Taj Mahal. The hotel has an outdoor pool, a business centre, a beauty salon, and restaurant and bar facilities. The hotel has a lot of beautiful artefacts on display near the lobby area.

Trident Agra

Buddha Head, Trident Agra

Wyndham Grand Agra is built on a large 18 acre property. The architecture has been inspired by the architecture of the Mughal era. The hotel has Mughal, Indian and continental dishes on offer at its various restaurants. It also has a spa and spa.

Wyndham Grand Agra

Lobby Chandelier, Wyndham Grand Agra

Agra also has some other top hotels. ITC Mughal is spread over 35 acres of land. It has multiple dining options, including Peshawri, a world famous reataurant specializing in food from the North West Frontier Province. It also has an outdoor pool and a spa. Taj Hotel and Convention Centre Agra has a spa, an infinity pool and multiple dining options, including Dawat-e-Nawab (known for its Indian delicacies) and The Latitude (for all day dining). Tajview boasts of an outdoor pool, a fitness centre and a spa. GAD Coffee Shop has Indian and international cuisines, Jhankar has traditional Indian meals, as well as live dance and music performances.

Very few cities in India can boast of the kind of history and heritage monuments that Agra has. Taj Mahal is certainly Agra's biggest attraction and draws millions of Indian and international visitors every year, but Agra has so much to offer by way of its other heritage monuments. Some of the hotels in Agra rank among India's best. Agra is also famous for its pethas (which are a local sweet), marble replicas, leather products and handicrafts. The monuments and hotels in Agra are maintained beautifully, but large parts of Agra are overcrowded, the city is notorious for its traffic jams and cleanliness levels need improvement. Despite its problems, Agra is one of India's most fascinating and splendid cities and is a must-see place for anyone visiting India.

My Visual Travel Experience: Kathmandu

I have visited Kathmandu on two occasions. In 1998, I got a chance to go there for a three day sales and marketing conference with my company, Britannia Industries Ltd. We stayed in luxury, at one of the city's best properties, Soaltee Crowne Plaza. We were busy with our conference agenda, but we were also taken around the city and shown its main sights like Pashupatinath Temple.

It was a large group of us colleagues and there was loads of fun to be had in the evenings at the world class resort, with a beautiful environment, great food, and alcohol flowing like water! I have vivid memories of two of my colleagues dancing away wildly to a Hindi "item number" one evening, with everyone egging them on enthusiastically! We were quite scared of some of our seniors because a few of them were pretty strict as bosses and our company was a hierarchical one, but despite that, we still had a jolly good time in Kathmandu. It was the first of many outbound conferences for me in my 15 year corporate career and what a memorable one it was!

I revisited Kathmandu on a solo trip in 2009. It was again a three day trip. I went through a travel agent who made all the arrangements for me, and I had a car and a knowledgeable driver at my disposal. This time, I spent time in Kathmandu but also visited the nearby towns of Patan, Bhaktapur and Nagarkot. I also went on an Everest flight, which was a breathtaking experience and one of the trip's major highlights.

Nepal is a land-locked, mountainous country lying between China and India. It covers an area of about 147,000 sq km, and has a population of over 26 million (as per the 2011 census). Nepal has eight of the world’s top 10 tallest mountain peaks, including the world’s highest peak, Mount Everest. The country was never colonized but it played the role of a buffer state between Imperial China and Colonial India.

Kathmandu is the capital and largest city of Nepal and has a population of about 2.5 million (as per the 2011 census). It stands at a height of around 1,400 meters above sea level in central Nepal. Kathmandu is well known for attractions like Durbar Square, Pashupatinath Temple, Swayambhunath Temple and Boudhanath Temple. In 2015, there was a major earthquake and Kathmandu and other areas suffered extensive damage, but they were subsequently largely restored.

The Licchavi Dynasty was established around 400 AD, when the Licchavis defeated the Kiratas. The Malla era came next. This was followed by the Gorkha Kingdom from 1559 to 1768, which resulted in the unification of Nepal. The Shah Dynasty was derived from the Gorkha Kingdom and ruled from 1768 to 2008. In between, the Rana rule started in 1846 with the Kot massacre, where most of Nepal’s high ranking officials were killed by Jang Bahadur Rana. The Shah monarch was reduced to a figure head. The Rana rule lasted till 1951, when power shifted back to the monarchy of King Tribhuvan. 

In 2001, there was a royal family massacre that ended the family of King Birendra. The murders were committed by the crown prince, Dipendra, who also died a few days later. The next king was Dipendra’s uncle, Gyanendra. The massacre eventually led to the end of the monarchy in Nepal in 2008, and the establishment of a secular republic.

Pashupatinath Temple is a Hindu temple on the banks of the Bagmati River. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979. The temple’s origins go back to the 5th century AD, when it was built by the Licchavi king Prachanda Dev. The temple complex has as many as 518 temples and monuments. The main temple has a Nepalese pagoda. The copper roofs have a gold covering.  The main idol is a stone linga.   

Pashupatinath Temple

Boudhanath Stupa is one of the largest stupas in the world. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979. The stupa is said to have the remains of the Kassapa Buddha.

Boudhanath Stupa

Swayambhunath Temple is an ancient temple that lies on a hill rising above Kathmandu. The complex has a stupa, multiple temples, a museum, a library, shops, restaurants and hostels. The stupa has Buddha’s eyes painted on it.

Swayambhunath Temple

Kathmandu Durbar Square lies in front of the old royal palace and is one of three Durbar Squares in Kathmandu Valley. Kathmandu Durbar Square was home to the royal palaces of the Malla and Shah dynasties. Until 1896, the monarchs ruled from the square, but important occasions like royal coronations still took place here. The square has various temples, the oldest of which date back to the 16th century. 

Shiva Temple,
Kathmandu Durbar Square

Garuda Statue at Narayan Temple,
Kathmandu Durbar Square

Taleju Temple,
Kathmandu Durbar Square

Narayanhiti Palace was built by King Mahendra in 1963. It served as the residence of the monarch . The 2001 massacre took place here. After the monarchy fell, King Birendra had to vacate the palace and it is now a museum.

Narayanhiti Palace

The Clock Tower lies near the queen’s pond, Rani Pokhari. It was rebuilt in 1990 after an earthquake. Locally, it is called the Ghanta Ghar.

Clock Tower

The town of Patan, which is also known as Lalitpur, has a population of about 285,000 and lies 10 km south of Kathmandu. It lies in Kathmandu Valley.

Patan Durbar Square has 136 courtyards and 55 temples. The structures were built by the Malla kings. The main sites include Krishna Temple, Bhimsen Temple, Vishwanath Temple, Taleju Bhawani Temple, Golden Temple, Degutalle, Mul Chowk, Sundari Chowk and Keshav Narayan Chowk. Patan Museum is also a well known attraction.

Krishna Temple, Patan Durbar Square

Narasimha Statue, Patan Durbar Square

Golden Temple, Patan Durbar Square

Degutalle, Patan Durbar Square

Tantric Buddha at Patan Museum,
Patan Durbar Square

The town of Bhaktapur lies in Kathmandu Valley, has a population of about 80,000 and is barely 15 km east of Kathmandu. 

Bhaktapur Durbar Square has sites like Mini Pashupatinath Temple, the Statue of Bhupitandra Malla, the 55 Window Palace, Vatsala Temple, Nyatapola Temple, Bhairav Nath Temple Golden Gate and Lion Gate. Most structures date back to the 18th century.

Statue of Bhupitandra Malla,
Bhaktapur Durbar Square

Mini Pashupatinath Temple,
Bhaktapur Durbar Square

A visit to Kathmandu is incomplete without going on the famous Everest Mountain Flight. There are various small planes from Kathmandu, including Buddha Air, that fly over the Himalayas and give customers a beautiful view of the range. Every customer gets a window seat. One can get to see the world’s tallest peak, Mount Everest (8,848 m high), as well as other tall peaks like Lhotse (the world’s 4th highest peak at 8,516 meters) and Makalu (the world’s 5th highest peak at 8,485 meters).

Buddha Air Everest Mountain Flight

Everest, Lhotse and Makalu

Gauri Shankar and Melungtse

Langtang Lirung

Nagarkot is situated about 30 km east of Kathmandu. It has a population of barely 5,000. It is a very scenic site and offers very good views of the Himalayas and of Kathmandu Valley. 

Gang Chhempu and Dorje Lhapka, Nagarkot

If you enjoy the mountains, scenic beauty, temples, stupas and a relaxed pace of life, Kathmandu is a great place to visit. The Everest Mountain Flight was a special treat. I'm certainly not fit enough to even think about an activity like climbing Mount Everest, so for me this was as close to the world's tallest peak that I am ever going to go!

My Visual Travel Experience: Grand Canyon

I have visited Grand Canyon twice, once on a solo trip in 2005, and once with my wife in 2011 soon after our marriage. Both times, I went from San Francisco. I had to fly from San Francisco to Phoenix to Flag Staff, and then go by road to Grand Canyon. The first time I saw Grand Canyon, I was part of a tour group, and our guide made it a dramatic experience. He got us to shut our eyes and walk close to the edge. He then got us to open our eyes, and I remember saying "Wow" because the view was nothing short of spectacular. On our 2011 trip, our flight from Flag Staff to Phoenix got cancelled. In order to catch our connecting flight from Phoenix to San Francisco, we rented a car and I drove down to Phoenix and made it well in time to catch our flight. We even had time to visit the Arizona State Capitol Museum before heading to the airport! On our second visit, there was a bit of mist in the air, and that took away from the surreal experience.

Grand Canyon lies in the state of Arizona, in the western part of the USA. The canyon was carved out by the Colorado River. It is 446 km long, 29 km wide and has a depth of over 1.8 km. The canyon’s south rim is usually open all year long, and the north rim is open through the summer months. The Colorado River cut its way through the area 5 to 6 million years ago, though some estimates say it could be far earlier. Since then, it has been deepening and widening the canyon. The canyon has been inhabited by Native Americans for thousands of years, probably since about 1200 BC, and the first Europeans to visit it were the Spanish in 1540. Grand Canyon was established as the 17th US National Park in 1919.

Grand Canyon has numerous memorable formations, and they have been given names for identification. These formations include Zoroaster Temple, Shiva Temple, Isis Temple and Brahma Temple. There are lookout points like Yaki Point and Mather Point from where one can enjoy seeing these splendid formations.

Zoroaster Temple seen from Yaki Point

Shiva Temple, Isis Temple, Buddha Temple, Brahma Temple
and Zoroaster Temple seen from Yaki Point

Isis Temple seen from Yaki Point

Lookout Studio dates back to 1914 and was a creation of Mary Colter. One can buy things like books, souvenirs, and rock and fossil samples.

Lookout Studio

Geology Museum at Yavapai Point has views of the canyon, three dimensional models and a relief map. The original structure came up in 1928 as an observation station. It became a museum in 2007.

Geology Museum

El Tovar Hotel was built in 1905. It lies along the south rim, and is one of the most luxurious hotels there. It has four storeys, and also contains a restaurant and a gift shop.

El Tovar Hotel

El Tovar Hotel seen from Lookout Point

Mather Point is named after Stephen Mather, who was the first director of the National Park Service when it was established in 1917.

View from Mather Point

Bas Relief of Stephen Mather at Mather Point

Grand Canyon has a lot of wildlife, including mule deer, elk, bears, rodents, many types of reptiles, birds and bats.

Deer at Grand Canyon

If one is anywhere near the west coast of the USA, the Grand Canyon should not be missed. The views are nothing short of spectacular and some of the formations are absolutely stunning! 

Phoenix is the largest city and capital of the state of Arizona, and has close to 1.6 million inhabitants. Phoenix lies about 400 kn south of Grand Canyon. The city's history goes back to 1867, when it developed as an agricultural community near the Salt and Gila rivers. It was incorporated as a city in 1881, and in 1889, it became the capital of Arizona. It lies at the northern end of the Sonoran Desert. 

Arizona State Capitol Museum is one of Phoenix's most interesting places to visit. The Arizona State Capitol was completed in 1901. Additions were made to it in 1918 and 1938. It served as the capitol till 1960, when the current house was built. The Arizona State Capitol Museum was inaugurated in 1978. It showcases the history and culture of Arizona.

Arizona State Capitol Museum

Old Senate House Gallery,
Arizona State Capitol Museum

Sculpture of a Cattle Rancher,
Arizona State Capitol Museum

Painting of Irrigation,
Arizona State Capitol Museum

Governor George W P Hunt's Office,
Arizona State Capitol Museum

We didn't have time to explore much of Phoenix. We just had a couple of hours there before heading to the airport. The Arizona State Capitol Museum is the only site we managed to see, but it was a good introduction to the state, its history and its culture.