Wednesday, April 29, 2020

My Visual Travel Experience: Baroda

In 2016, I spent four days in Gujarat. I was in Ahmedabad for three of those days, and on one day, I did a morning-evening car trip to Baroda. I went to Baroda largely to see Laxmi Vilas Palace, one of India's most magnificent palaces, which I had seen many times in photographs. The proximity to Ahmedabad made the trip a very comfortable one, and the very good quality highway helped.

Baroda, now called Vadodara but still widely known by its old name, lies around 110 km away from Ahmedabad. The city has a population of over 1.6 million, and is the third largest city in the state of Gujarat, after Ahmedabad and Surat. Baroda was a wealthy princely state, ruled by the Gaekwad rulers from 1721 (when the Marathi General, Pilaji Gaekwad, defeated the Mughals) till 1949 (when the princely state acceded to the Republic of India). Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III, who ruled from 1875 to 1939, was the best known ruler in the Dynasty. He was responsible for a lot of development in the princely state.

Laxmi Vilas Palace was built by Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III in 1890 and is one of India's grandest palaces. The Maharaja's descendants continue to reside in a section of the palace, whereas large parts of the palace are open to visitors. The complex also has the Maharaja Fateh Singh Museum. Laxmi Vilas Palace was the world's largest dwelling unit when it was built. In the 1930s, a golf course was opened in the complex for the Maharaja's European guests.
Laxmi Vilas Palace
Peacock Urn, Laxmi Vilas Palace
Moses Statue, Laxmi Vilas Palace
Stag Statue, Laxmi Vilas Palace
Sayyaji Gaekwad III was born in 1863 and died in 1939. He became Maharaja of Baroda in 1875 and continued until his death. In 1870, the Maharaja of Baroda, Khanderao Gaekwad died. His brother, Malharrao became the next Maharaja. He was, however, deposed in 1875 on account of his tyranny and the fact that he had nearly emptied the state's coffers. Maharani Jamnabai, the widow of Khanderao Gaekwad, called extended branches of the family, so that the next king could be chosen. Gopalrao, then just 12, was chosen. When he was asked why he had come, he confidently said "I have come here to rule". He was crowned later that year and given the name Sayajirao Gaekwad III. He was only a minor then, and got full ruling powers only in 1881.

Sayyaji Gaekwad III had many achievements during his decades as the Maharaja. His achievements included education of the masses, upliftment of the poor, a ban on child marriages, removal of untouchability, encouragement of the arts, establishment of a railroad and establishment of the Bank of Baroda. Upon his death, his grandson, Pratapsinhrao Gaekwad, became the next Maharaja, and ruled from 1939 to 1951. During his rule, Baroda acceded to the Union of India in 1949. Fatehsinghrao Gaekwad II ruled from 1951 to 1988. During his rule, in 1971, royal titles in India were abolished. Unofficially, Ranjitsinh Pratapsinh Gaekwad was Maharaja from 1988 to 2012. Samarjitsinh Gaekwad then took over in 2012. 
Overview, Laxmi Vilas Palace
Bull Statue, Laxmi Vilas Palace
Mural, Laxmi Vilas Palace
Exit Doorway, Laxmi Vilas Palace
Baroda Museum and Picture Gallery was built in 1894 in the Indo-Saracenic architectural style.. The museum has a fine collection of European paintings, sculptures, Mughal costumes, Mughal miniature paintings, weapons, an Egyptian mummy, Tibetan arts and a blue whale skeleton.
Baroda Museum and Picture Gallery
Interior, Baroda Museum and Picture Gallery
Busts of rulers of Baroda, Baroda Museum and Picture Gallery
Helmet, Baroda Museum and Picture Gallery
Mughal Costume,
Baroda Museum and Picture Gallery
Baroda Museum and Picture Gallery lies inside Sayaji Baug, a large park that was opened by Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III in 1879. The park is spread over an area of 113 acres. The park also has a toy train (which takes visitors on a 20 minute ride), a zoo (which prides itself on its collection of Asiatic lions), an aquarium, a large floral clock (with a 6.1 meter diameter) and a planetarium (which can take up to 200 spectators).
Palm Trees, Sayaji Baug
Sculpture of a Hunting Boy, Sayaji Baug
It was a pleasant day in Baroda. Laxmi Vilas Palace certainly lived up to the grandeur I had read about. The attractions in Sayaji Baug were also very interesting. All in all, I enjoyed my visit and had fun learning about the fascinating history of this former princely state.

Monday, April 27, 2020

My Visual Travel Experience: Paris

In 1987, I spent three days in Paris with my parents, my sister and my cousin. I loved the city. I was just 14 back then, but Paris had been one of the highest names on my list of places to visit. I was very familiar with some of the iconic sites of Paris that I was seeing for the first time, because they were among the world's most recognizable sites and I had grown up seeing their images. In 2001, when I began my international travels with all seriousness, I spent over a month in Europe, and I spent six days in Paris. In 2005, I again went back to Paris and spent five days there - on my previous visit, there had been a museum strike and I hadn't been able to see any of the museums, so on this visit, I focused on the city's remarkable museums. In 2007, I again got a chance to spend three days in Paris, when my company sent me to INSEAD in the Paris suburb of Fontainebleu for a management development programme. So I've spent a total of well over two weeks in Paris, and along with New York and London, it is on the list of of my Top 3 cities in the world to visit, because there is such a staggering amount to see, do and experience!

Paris, the capital of France, is a city having a population of 2.2 million (as of 2019), though Greater Paris has over 12.5 million residents. Paris is one of the world’s most visited cities, and it is known for its spectacular museums, its grand palaces, its splendid churches, its beautiful architecture, its high sense of fashion, its fascinating city squares and its world famous cabaret shows. The historical district along the River Seine in the heart of the city has been classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Paris is also one of the most expensive cities in the world.

The Romans moved into the Paris region in 52 BC and called the town Lutetia. Saint Denis introduced Christianity to Paris in the 3rd century AD. The Capetian Dynasty began in 987 under Hugh Capet, and Paris became the most important city in France. The Capetian Dynasty, or the House of France, ruled from 987 to 1792, and then again from 1814 to 1848. In 1682, Louis XIII moved his capital from Paris to the suburb of Versailles. In 1789, Paris was at the centre of the French Revolution. On July 14, 1789, a mob seized weapons from the Invalides, and stormed the Bastille. Louis XVI was brought from Versailles and made prisoner within the Tuileries Palace. In 1793, Louis XVI, his queen Marie Antoinette, and many others were guillotined. Property belonging to the aristocracy was seized and nationalized. Several revolutionary factions ruled Paris until Napoleon Bonaparte took over in 1799. 

Napoleon erected several monuments in Paris to glorify his military prowess. Napoleon was defeated in 1814, and the monarchy was restored. A revolution in 1830 brought Louis Philippe I to power as a constitutional monarch. He was overthrown in 1848, and his successor was Napoleon III, the nephew of Napoleon I. He was the first President of France from 1848 to 1852, and the last monarch from 1852 to 1870, when France lost the Franco-Prussian War. In 1889 and in 1900, Paris played host to the Universal Expositions. For both these events, the city saw several new landmarks constructed. In 1940, the Germans marched into Paris during World War II. Paris was liberated from the Germans in 1944. General Charles de Gaul led France during that phase of history. He later came out of retirement and served as President of France from 1959 to 1969.

The long and rich history of the city have resulted in many important landmarks and architectural gems scattered all over Paris. Musee du Louvre, Notre Dame, Arc de Triomphe, Sacre Coeur and the Eiffel Tower are all among the most recognized structures in the world, but the more time one spends in Paris, the more one realizes there is just so much more to see in this amazing city.

Eiffel Tower was built for the Universal Exhibition of 1889 and was meant to be a temporary structure, before it went on to become the symbol of  Paris. It was designed by Gustave Eiffel, and many people were initially very critical of it. Standing at a height of 324 meters, it was the world’s tallest structure till New York’s Empire State Building was completed in 1931. There are three observation levels, at 57 meters, 115 meters and 276 meters, and lift take visitors up the wrought iron lattice tower.
Eiffel Tower
Notre Dame is located on Isle de la Cite, cradle of the city. The first stone was laid by Pope Alexander III in 1163. The large Gothic cathedral has two 69 meter tall bell towers, beautiful rose windows, a series of gargoyles between the towers, a treasury, sculptures including those of the Pieta and King Louis XIII, and the beautiful Portal of the Virgin. The cathedral was damaged in a fire in 2019.
Notre Dame
Portal at Notre Dame
Charlemagne was crowned emperor in 800 and he united Christian people in the west. His equestrian statue stands outside Notre Dame.
Charlemagne Statue outside Notre Dame
Pantheon was built by Loius XV to honour Sainte Genevieve, after the king recovered from a deadly illness in 1744. The church was completed in 1790. It was turned into a Pantheon for the tombs of France’s greatest citizens. The structure has a dome that stands at a height of 83 meters. There are monuments to Victor Hugo, Madame Curie, Diderot and other prominent citizens.
Pantheon
St Etienne du Monde is a church dedicated to Sainte Genevieve. It also has the remains of the famous literary figures, Racine and Pascal. The church has beautiful stained glass windows.
St Etienne du Monde
Dom Church is situated in the Invalides complex, and was built in the 17th century by Louis XIV. The church is a French military memorial, with tombs of Napoleon, Vauban, Foch and other prominent leaders. The dome ceiling has a painting of Glory of Paradise.
Dom Church
La Madeleine is a Roman Catholic church close to Place de la Concorde, and was built as a temple to the glory of Napoleon’s army. The church, built in Neo Classical style, was completed in 1842. The high altar has a statue of Mary Magdalene.
La Madeleine
American Cathedral was consecrated in 1864. It has an 85 meter tall tower. The cathedral has some notable stained glass windows.
American Cathedral
Sacre Coeur was built by two Frenchmen as a religious vow after Paris was saved from an invasion during the Prussian onslaught in 1870. The basilica was completed in 1914. It has a white exterior, a large dome, an 83 meter tall bell tower , a famous mosaic of Christ, equestrian statues of Joan of Arc and Saint Louis, and a crypt.
Sacre Coeur
Arc de Triomphe was commissioned by Napoleon after his success in the Battle of Austerlitz in 1805. The structure was only completed in 1836. The arch has a height of 50 meters, and is the starting point for victory celebrations and parades.  Below the arch lies the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, where an anonymous French soldier from World War I is buried. Along the sides of Arc de Triomphe, there are bas reliefs including the Triumph of Napoleon and Departure of the Volunteers in 1792. Twelve avenues radiate from the Arc, including the famous Champs Elysees.
Arc de Triomphe
Triumph of Napoleon Relief, Arc de Triomphe
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, Arc de Triomphe
Arc de Triomphe de Carousel was built by Napoleon in 1808 at the entrance to the Tuileries. The arch is topped by statues of soldiers of the Grand Armee.
Arc de Triomphe de Carousel
Hotel de Ville is a 19th century building built at the site where the 17th century Hotel de Ville burned down in 1871. The building’s exterior has beautiful turrets and statues. Inside, there is an impressive ballroom and a grand staircase.
Hotel de Ville
The Assemble National was built in 1722 for the Duchess of Bourbon. It was confiscated during the French Revolution and became the National Assembly in 1830.
Assemble National
Grand Palais was built in 1900 for the Universal Exhibition. The palace has a glass roof, bronze statues of flying horses and chariots and a classical stone facade. Temporary exhibitions are held inside. 
Grand Palais
Petit Palais was built in 1900 for the Grand Exhibition, to display French art. It now houses the Musee  dea Beaux Arts de la Ville de Paris.
Petit Palais
Place de la Corcorde is a large square built in the middle of the 18th century. Many of the executions during the French Revolution took place at this historic square, including those of Louis XVI, Marie Antoinette, Danton and Robespierre. In the 19th century, a 3,200 year old obelisk from Luxor, Egypt, was placed in the square, along with two fountains and eight statues personifying French cities. Another famous city square is Place des Vosges, the oldest planned square in Paris, completed in 1612, and known for its fashionable residences. Place Vendome is yet another of the city's well known squares. It has the Vendome Column at the centre, which was erected by Napoleon to celebrate his victory at Austerlitz. It was modeled after Trajan's Column. Napoleon's statue stands at the summit of the column.
Obelisk, Place de la Concorde
Fountain, Place de la Concorde
Fountain Detail, Place de la Concorde
Place du Chatalet is a square that has the Fontaine du Palmier, to celebrate French battle victories. It has a 20 meter tall column, topped by a gilded figure of the goddess Victory. The square has the identical looking Theatre du Chatalet and Theatre de la Ville. 
Fontaine du Palmier, Place du Chatalet
Moulin Rouge was built in 1885 and was turned into a dance hall in 1900.  Moulin Rouge, with its landmark red coloured windmill, is famous for its wild, topless and colourful dance shows with their high kicking routines. Lido and Crazy Horse are other famous cabarets show with spectacular topless shows.
Moulin Rouge
Musee du Louvre is possibly the world’s best known art museum. The building was first constructed as a fortress in 1190. It was expanded over the next few centuries by various emperors of France. The museums collection of paintings includes Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, and paintings by masters like Vermeer, Carvaggio, El Greco, Van Dyck, Durer and Rubens, to name just a few. Sculptures on display include Venus de Milo, the Winged Victor of Samothrace, Milo of Creton , the Marly Horses and Michelangelo’s Dying Slave. There is a fine collection of work from ancient Egypy, Greece, Rome and Assyria, as well as objets d’art. The glass pyramid of the Louvre was a recent addition and allows light down into the underground visitor’s reception area.
Venus de Milo, Musee du Louve
The Winged Victor of Samothrace, Musee du Louvre
Milo of Creton, Musee du Louvre
Ruben's The Queen's Arrival at Marseilles,
Musee du Louvre
Watteau's Pierrot, Musee du Louvre
Ingres' The Bather, Musee du Louvre
Public Domain, Credit: Google Art
Vermeer's The Astronomer, Musee du Louvre
Public Domain, Credit: Google Art
Leonardo da Vinci's Virgin of the Rocks, Musee du Louvre
Public Domain, Credit: Google Art
Musee d’Orsay is housed  inside an old railway station built at the end of the 19th century. It stopped being used as a railway station in 1939, and in 1986, it was reopened as the Musee d’Orsay. The museum houses art from the period 1848 to 1914, and has one of the best impressionist art collections in the world. Artists featured include Monet, Manet, Van Gogh, Renoir, Rodin, Seurat, Gauguin and Delacroix.
Manet's Olympia, Musee d'Orsay
Monet's Haystacks, Musee d'Orsay
Renoir's The Village Dance, Musee d'Orsay
Renoir's Dance at the Moilin de la Galette, Musee d'Orsay
Public Domain, Credit: Google Art
Seurat's The Circus, Musee d'Orsay
Van Gogh's Afternoon Siesta, Musee d'Orsay
Van Gogh's Self Portrait, Musee d'Orsay
Van Gogh's Bedroom at Arles, Musee d'Orsay
Public Domain, Credit: Google Art
Musee Rodin has works by the famous French sculptor August Rodin. The building is an elegant, grand mansion, Hotel Biron, which Rodin used as his workshop from 1908 onwards. He donated his works to the French State on the condition that the building be made into a permanent museum of his works. The works on display in the garden include The Burghers of Calais, The Thinker, The Gates of Hell and Balzac. Inside, exhibits include The Kiss and Eve.  
Musee Rodin
The Thinker, Musee Rodin
Balzac, Musee Rodin
The Three Graces, Musee Rodin
Versailles Palace is situated a little outside Paris. Work started in the 1660s under the reign of Louis IV. The palace saw further construction and expansion over the next many years. The palace’s highlights include the stunning gardens with the Fountain of Neptune, the Hall of Mirrors, the Chapel, the Opera House, the Marble Courtyard, the King’s Bedroom (where Louis XIV died in 1715) and the Queen’s Bedroom (where the queens of France gave birth to the royal children).
Hall Of Mirrors, Versailles Palace
Chapel, Versailles Palace
For shopping, it's tough to beat Paris. Champs Elysees, the city's best known avenue, is full of plush boutique and designer stores. Galeries Lafayette is a high end department store in Paris, which now has branches across France and in other countries. The department store caters to different budgets, ranging from affordable ready-to-wear clothes to haute couture. Paris has a strong culture of eating out, and the city has over a hundred Michelin star restaurants. French cuisines are popular the world over, and known for fine dining.

Paris is a city I am happy visiting over and over again, and I have been mesmerized by its beauty each time. I'm willing to overlook the litter that sometimes lies around, and the huge crowds in the metros and in the tourist spots. For a first time visitor, try and spend at least a week if you wish to do justice and cover the city's main sites. For those having more time, a lifetime is probably not enough to cover all the landmarks that this historic city has!!